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Repair or new Quartet passive radiator KD-13


itsikhefez

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Hi all,

I recently picked up a pair of Quartets and there is damage to one of the passive radiators.

The tears looks like cat scratches.... although none go all the way through the material.

I reached out to customer service and the KD-13-K is available for new purchase but the cost would be about $250 shipped for a pair which is about what I paid for the entire speakers.

 

At this point I'm not sure whether to replace only the damaged one, both, try and repair or leave as-is.

All suggestions welcome...

Thanks

 

2019-11-04 22.34.11.jpg

2019-11-04 22.34.20.jpg

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Are those mounted on the rear? Actually, front or rear, I would patch.

 

On the rear side, use an adhesive and tough tissue like cigarette paper. I use a glue (Weldbond) that stays slightly flexible, thinned a little with water. Use multiple coats.

 

Fixing these is a piece of cake...

 

Bruce

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@Marvel thanks for you reply.

This is the passive sub-radiator on the rear.

The only non-wood Glue I have is Elmers white glue. Is that appropriate or is Weldbond preferred?

 

Should I first cut off the protruding pieces or leave them in place?

Would love a bit more detail on the process here as I've never done it before.

 

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Cat?  Elmers should also work.  Use sparingly and smooth gently from both sides.  Use cigarette paper, cut as small as needed, for the bigger holes that won't smooth together and be closed.  Thinning Elmers should help. 

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I believe the Weldbond is also a PVA derivative, but it stays a bit flexible. I also thinned it with some water and used a small artists paint brush to coat rubber surrounds that have split. Where there were cracks, I used cigarette paper on the backs, and then thin coats over the entire surround on the front. Did some JBL L46 woofers  about 15 years ago and they are still working fine. You can get the Weldbond a lot of places. I had never heard of it until DJK mentioned it.

 

https://www.acehardware.com/departments/paint-and-supplies/tape-glues-and-adhesives/glues-and-epoxy/1563279?x429=true&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&gclid=Cj0KCQiA2ITuBRDkARIsAMK9Q7Mz4V0ETTYFxCqQDc1eaVkKt1DprGTjT5PPJO-wXOs94JMeN6j6-DUaAjBYEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

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Thanks, I think I have a better understanding of the process.

One further clarification though-

None of the tears actually go all the way through the material. The back is solid.

In this case, do I actually need to use any paper?

 

The way I am understanding this now is that I should push in the pieces that are sticking out (from the front), and fill the gap with thinned Weldbond/Emers until the surface is smooth again.

 

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40 minutes ago, itsikhefez said:

The way I am understanding this now is that I should push in the pieces that are sticking out (from the front), and fill the gap with thinned Weldbond/Emers until the surface is smooth again.

 

That should work extremely well.

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