jshaw3 Posted December 20, 2022 Share Posted December 20, 2022 Has this post been abandoned? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted December 20, 2022 Share Posted December 20, 2022 @jshaw3 remove the gain potentiometer , look for any markings for the exact type or search the service manual for the specs , some specialized shops can find you an exact replacement or an equivalent . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bud Posted December 20, 2022 Share Posted December 20, 2022 I have a Klipsch R-115sw and the amp has gone out. I am wondering where I can find a replacement amp, or alternatively someone to repair the current amp. Please advise. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jshaw3 Posted December 20, 2022 Share Posted December 20, 2022 Thanks for getting back to me. I have tracked down a suitable replacement but still trying to get this back to 100%. I have not been able to find a service manual or schematic anywhere for this. I'm getting ready to order components for the PDC board because my remaining problem seems to be coming from it, but apparently the 1N4140 diode is obsolete so I'm trying to find a suitable replacement. I see a posting here that substituted a 1N4148 (although I don't actually know if it works) and came across an NTE replacement !N5401 as well. Not sure if anyone can shed any more light on this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jshaw3 Posted December 20, 2022 Share Posted December 20, 2022 On 2/13/2022 at 9:51 AM, Bman0202 said: After alot more troubleshooting I narrowed it down to q9 and d17 on the "speaker -" rail. D17 was ultimately dropping too much voltage. Messing with q9. I measures the 15 volts going in but only 8volts was coming out. Replaced and now its all good thank goodness. Clean waveform in and out. Adjusted the bias to make sure the wave form looks proper Thanks tho this forum ive gotten it back up and running Can you tell us what you used to replace D17? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jshaw3 Posted December 21, 2022 Share Posted December 21, 2022 (edited) 11 hours ago, jshaw3 said: Can you tell us what you used to replace D17? Thanks Edited December 21, 2022 by jshaw3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Snyder Posted December 23, 2022 Share Posted December 23, 2022 I have a pair of Sub 10’s and one suddenly blew fuse and every subsequent replacement I installed. I pulled off the back and there is a large cap right next to transformer that seems to have released it’s contents all over the board. Also a smaller cap about an inch and 1/2 away, same thing…guts everywhere. I assume this is toast? Is there somewhere to buy a new replacement board or do people just buy used ones and pray? I have pics but can’t see how to upload. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NateAUS Posted December 23, 2022 Share Posted December 23, 2022 (edited) Just thought I would add to this discussion. I have a sub-woofer with the same power supply issue. Found a couple of stuffed zener's which got the switch mode supply oscillating but not reliably so I knew caps were a problem as well. I decided that the design of this supply is very weak and to rip it out completely. I removed all the PSU component's off the PCB till mainly just the amplification part was left. Then I fitted a 300VA toroidal transformer and its works beautifully. Now I dont have a supply that can fry up anymore and should be much more reliable than the original. The worst part of doing this was removing all the unnecessary parts off the original PCB esp the small transformer and the bridge rectifier. I can go into detail if someone whats to know how to do it Edited December 23, 2022 by NateAUS 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted December 24, 2022 Share Posted December 24, 2022 10 minutes ago, NateAUS said: I decided that the design of this supply is very weak what subwoofer are you referring to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NateAUS Posted December 24, 2022 Share Posted December 24, 2022 I have the Klipsch Sub 10 49 minutes ago, OO1 said: what subwoofer are you referring to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted December 24, 2022 Share Posted December 24, 2022 5 hours ago, NateAUS said: I have the Klipsch Sub 10 the Klipsch Sub 10 is 17 years old , the high wear of electronics is quite normal being housed in a sealed enclosure that is subjected to excessive heat for such a number of years , can you please shoot us some pictures of what you did , Tx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NateAUS Posted December 31, 2022 Share Posted December 31, 2022 I will provide photos as I want to tidy up a few things now I know it all works well , so when I can pull it apart (there is nothing more permanent than the temp fix that works haha) I will send through how to do it, its actually very simple and works well. The original supply has 3 separate output sections : 1) Main power for the amp section 2) plus and minus for what appears to be the pre-amp section which has a 7915 and 7815 regulator and finally a supply for the control section. When I got the orignal supply to actually kick in I measured around 85VDC for the main power, 28VDC plus and minus at the regulators bit I never got the test the control section. I used a 160VA toroidal transformer 30-0-30 and two 4.5VA 15-0-15 . I had to use three transformers as the one I wanted which was 300VA 30-0-30 with 15-0-15 and 12-0-12 auxiliaries, was out of stock. The 60VAC just needs to be rectified and put to the main 85vDC rail, the 15-0- 15 I put through a bridge where the original rectifying diodes were and the other 15-0-15 i put through two diodes as a full wave rectifier to the control section. As I knew two power supply voltages I powered those up and then using a bench supply connected to the power section I slowly brought the voltage up (with current limiting just on case) till the circuit kicked into life which was around 17VDC. The plus/minus rail only produces about 21VDC not the original 28VDC but as it is regulated down to 15VDC anyway it just makes the regs not have to work so hard. Once stock of the 300VA becomes available I will be able to remove the 3 transformers and replace with the one. The only thing I havent tested in this scenario is whether the 12-0-12 rectified will be enough for the control section but I believe it will be as once rectified 12VAC will be around 16.8VDC. It took longer to work out how than actually doing it. Anyway I hope this kind of makes sense. I will try and show on the photos the connection points. The only thing I will say is please only do this if you are qualified to do so!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NateAUS Posted January 2, 2023 Share Posted January 2, 2023 Hopefully this gives an idea what I have done. It was very hard to keep the high current/voltage section for the amp tidy as I was trying to reuse as much of the original board as I could. If I was to do it again I would probably do it a little different to to make as nice as possible. Main thing is that it works very well, is safe and will be very robust. At some point I will change the other supply caps but they are OK for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jshaw3 Posted January 13, 2023 Share Posted January 13, 2023 Has anybody actually adjusted the bias on a Sub10? My understanding was there are two pots side by side and they both needed to be adjusted. I replaced them both with new and when I went to adjust as I had seen in a video posted earlier, only one affected the output signal. I used the low signal inputs. Cleaned up the signal nicely, but I can't see where the other one does anything at all. Even tried it with a signal into left and right separately, but got the same result. Could the other pot be for the hi-input? That's about the only thing I didn't try! Any insight would certainly be appreciated. TIA.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bear1965 Posted January 30, 2023 Share Posted January 30, 2023 I have a sub12 serial #06070228. After reading this thread and realizing that I am not the best person to do this job I was wondering if you could help me out by doing this for me. I can be reached at 920-904-3890. Text or call me. Why they used that type of glue that becomes conductive and ruins a great product is beyond me???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bear1965 Posted January 31, 2023 Share Posted January 31, 2023 Do you do these for people? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bear1965 Posted January 31, 2023 Share Posted January 31, 2023 Anyone???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeenerDenmark Posted February 2, 2023 Share Posted February 2, 2023 On 11/26/2022 at 6:39 AM, ngen33r said: I am still doing repairs, but life has decided to take up most of my time. I hope to be getting back into it more after I do some much needed maintenance. Hi 😊 I have a SVS PC13-ultra. This AMP has a indigo 640047 rev3 powersupply. My problem i that it clicking on and off when powered up. I Think the issue is in the powersupply after it is still clicking when it runs solo, all other bords on the AMP is disconnected. Have you seen this before? I have seen all your video here but this issue is here not. regards Jens from Denmark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MysterMysteryMan Posted February 16, 2023 Share Posted February 16, 2023 I am so happy to find an expert in this particular department of these awesome subs. I have a buddy give me a synergy klipsch 10" (down firing) that has very sensitive rca inputs and none of the low level inputs work. If I hold the sub cable down to touch the insides of the rca jack, it works great. I have the exact same sub (but the 12") I had to repair the rca input on. -I basically removed the LFE port and wired it to the right input. Works great! This 10" tho is a struggle. Replaced both rca Jacks and now get no input, not even my original temp trick works. I did it correctly, done it many times on other amps. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Analyzing every inch of the amp it seems to be in good shape other than a few hairs of elevation on the main capacitor, but knowing it kinda worked before, leads me to believe it's not the main issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike lowhorn Posted February 24, 2023 Share Posted February 24, 2023 How much would you charge to repair my board out of a Klipsch sub 10. Blue light is on the cabinet but no sound Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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