Oto Posted March 24, 2023 Share Posted March 24, 2023 Hello, my apologies in advance. I read through a bunch of threads and found that I probably shouldn't try this repair. I have a RPW10 that's blowing fuses. I'm sure this was answered somewhere but I didn't see it hence my apologies. Do you do repairs? IF so please give me an idea of cost and where to send it. I have the board out. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattshouse68 Posted March 26, 2023 Share Posted March 26, 2023 On 1/13/2020 at 10:52 PM, ngen33r said: SYNERGY SUB-12 PLATE SERIAL 06230184 This amp was blowing fuses. The PDC control board failed and took out the mosfets. I had to clean and rebuild the PDC, replace the fets, replace Q5 and TH3. TH3 is almost always bad when fuses are blowing. After the board was working, a full recap was done on the amp.The active crossover was especially fun due to all the damn glue used. Hello. I see your post here and we have the same issue with Martin Logan Abyss sub. Kept blowing fuses. We found the issue. Would like to know what we need to do to fix it? All advice would be great. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bman0202 Posted April 14, 2023 Share Posted April 14, 2023 On 12/20/2022 at 3:18 PM, jshaw3 said: Can you tell us what you used to replace D17? Thanks i used BAS516, however after many attempts (i bought multiples) usually it fails again after installation. usually it will start off good, but then fail and go right back to introducing noise on the one side of the sine wave. and the voltage drops to around 8v through that component. i cannot find what in the circuit is drawing it down. again everything that the MOD for this forum has talked about worked for fixing mine up to this point. i install a new D17 diode and it works for a short while, then i start to hear a static like noise, i throw the oscilloscope on it and i see the same issue as before. its really random, one time it worked for weeks before going back to a failed state. i have yet to figure it out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weasel Posted May 15, 2023 Share Posted May 15, 2023 On 11/25/2022 at 11:39 PM, ngen33r said: I am still doing repairs, but life has decided to take up most of my time. I hope to be getting back into it more after I do some much needed maintenance. I have the synergy 10 in sub sn 10S+08470971 , 120V. I need to replace the Amp, can you help me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrCG3 Posted May 25, 2023 Share Posted May 25, 2023 Well my woofer is blowing fuses, and after reading through the blogs, I see it's a problem with the S10. Can anyone offer up some trouble shooting tips. All I have is a muti-meter, but pretty sure that will cover only basics...thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrCG3 Posted May 30, 2023 Share Posted May 30, 2023 Does anyone offer repairs on this model / Unit? Thank you MrCG3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted May 30, 2023 Share Posted May 30, 2023 2 hours ago, MrCG3 said: Does anyone offer repairs on this model / Unit? Thank you MrCG3 email klipsch tech support ...they might be able to guide you https://support.klipsch.com/hc/en- us/requests/new klipsch Subwoofer liquidation 50% off ( only a few left for the 12 inch subs )... 300$ , https://www.klipsch.com/subwoofers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lothian Posted June 4, 2023 Share Posted June 4, 2023 (edited) I'm t'shooting a non-working RPW10 PCB. I do not own a scope; just a DMM. I get no sound from the speaker, no hum nor the power-on thump. Power LED lights and the fuse tests OK. Fuse tests OK and does not blow when amp is powered on. Visually, the PCB is excellent: no smoked traces, lifted pads, blown caps a/o burned resistors. No odor of burnt electronics. I get ~26.3vDC across the voltage regulators. I get ~5.6vDC across the two large resistors (volume at min.). With board unplugged, I see normal cap drain-down: voltage drains to zero volts when measured across the voltage regulators. Thus the usual culprits all appear to be normal. What do I need to test next? Edited June 7, 2023 by lothian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eason Posted June 14, 2023 Share Posted June 14, 2023 Does anyone have a schematic for the Klipsch sub 10? Thanks . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Pontrello Posted June 15, 2023 Share Posted June 15, 2023 I have the rpw-10 subwoofer. Is there any way to mod this so that the crossover frequency can go between 200 and 400hz. I plan on using it for a small PA sub with array speakers on top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliff moody Posted August 6, 2023 Share Posted August 6, 2023 is it possible to send the unit for repair or possibly buy a new amp/board assembly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted August 6, 2023 Share Posted August 6, 2023 3 hours ago, cliff moody said: is it possible to send the unit for repair or possibly buy a new amp/board assembly only 1 way to find out ▶️ klipsch 800-554-7724 or email https://support.klipsch.com/hc/en-us/requests/new new klipsch subs on liquidation .... Klipsch R-12SW , 219$ . https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-R-12SW-Subwoofer/dp/B00MJ1YR8Y/ref=sr_1_1?c=ts&keywords=Home+Audio+Subwoofers&qid=1691352350&refinements=p_89%3AKlipsch&s=aht&sr=1-1&ts_id=172568 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dudaindc Posted August 16, 2023 Share Posted August 16, 2023 On 6/4/2023 at 3:57 PM, lothian said: I'm t'shooting a non-working RPW10 PCB. I do not own a scope; just a DMM. I get no sound from the speaker, no hum nor the power-on thump. Power LED lights and the fuse tests OK. Fuse tests OK and does not blow when amp is powered on. Visually, the PCB is excellent: no smoked traces, lifted pads, blown caps a/o burned resistors. No odor of burnt electronics. I get ~26.3vDC across the voltage regulators. I get ~5.6vDC across the two large resistors (volume at min.). With board unplugged, I see normal cap drain-down: voltage drains to zero volts when measured across the voltage regulators. Thus the usual culprits all appear to be normal. What do I need to test next? I would check the pre-amp board output when feeding a test signal into one of the RCA input jacks. I had at least 2 boards with defective volume pots. Just a thought... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ernie B Posted August 26, 2023 Share Posted August 26, 2023 Hello anyone help please, I have a sub 12 120v version. Needing to change to 230v as i am moving to Thailand. I have researched and found that these boards can be change from 120v to 230v or vice versa. I have found that the 230v version has 2 1000uf 200v where as the 120v has only one 560uf 200v. The question i have is that i need to know the values of the resistors for the 230v version, image is too blurry to define. see attached. thank you in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Map63Vette Posted August 30, 2023 Share Posted August 30, 2023 Does anyone happen to have any schematics for these boards? I have a bad amp that came out of a Klipsch sub 10 my dad has and was interested in potentially pulling the crossover out of it to use with a bass shaker setup. I have a small amp that is already well suited for the shaker, but it doesn't have any frequency control. I plan to wire it into the LFE output on my home theater setup, but need to limit the low pass filter below what the sub needs. Looking at the amp it seems like this should be pretty easy to do as I think all the processing happens on a separate board with the crossover dial, but I'm not sure what the pinout for the connector to the board is. Looks to be something like 6 wires, so guessing something like power and ground, signal in, and signal out, but would be nice if I could trace it out on a schematic instead of having to reverse engineer by following circuit traces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dudaindc Posted September 1, 2023 Share Posted September 1, 2023 On 8/26/2023 at 3:07 PM, Ernie B said: Hello anyone help please, I have a sub 12 120v version. Needing to change to 230v as i am moving to Thailand. I have researched and found that these boards can be change from 120v to 230v or vice versa. I have found that the 230v version has 2 1000uf 200v where as the 120v has only one 560uf 200v. The question i have is that i need to know the values of the resistors for the 230v version, image is too blurry to define. see attached. thank you in advance. Those are not resistors, but "zero ohm links" - a piece of wire (of proper gauge) will do the trick. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvin J. Posted October 1, 2023 Share Posted October 1, 2023 I have two of these Synergy subwoofers can you tell me how I can get them repaired? I purchased a pair from eBay one was already out the other was working just fine until I moved it. It's continuously blowing the fuses without ever turning on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pascal Posted October 16, 2023 Share Posted October 16, 2023 Hello, I don't know if I can find help here .. and sorry for some "wording" (I'm posting from France). I've bought a Klipsch SW ~30 month ago (ref: R-100W), and and it doesn't work anymore .. (30 months !!). The green led lights up, the speaker is ok (I've tested) .. but no amplification .. After dismantling the card .. you can see (why this white paste ??). I'm able to change a component but I've no idea of which could be the cause of the problem. I know it's not a "top of the line" SW, but It would hurt me if I couldn't fix it. Sorry if I'm not in the correct forum. Many thanks, Pascal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jean pierre laroute Posted November 23, 2023 Share Posted November 23, 2023 Good morning I have a RW-10D, with the card badly damaged. Can anyone confirm the U14 reference? The component is dead. Is this MC9S08AW48? If so, is there a solution to reprogram a new one if this chip is still on sale? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jean pierre laroute Posted November 24, 2023 Share Posted November 24, 2023 Maybe good news. I desoldered the MC908AP8, It doesn't appear damaged, I must have a short on a component. I also noticed that the LM7815CV suffered from the heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.