Rossi32s Posted April 4 Share Posted April 4 1 hour ago, mmmboost said: I've got..... 0V (sad trombone). It seems like things are getting stopped up at the PDC board. Here's a shot of the bottom of the board. AC input on the LHS This schematic is about the closest i can get you to that unit. May want to start a new thread somewhere... this is really getting off topic for this Klipsch thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rossi32s Posted April 4 Share Posted April 4 4 minutes ago, Rossi32s said: This schematic is about the closest i can get you to that unit. May want to start a new thread somewhere... this is really getting off topic for this Klipsch thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Keita 81 Posted April 4 Share Posted April 4 17 hours ago, Rossi32s said: Nie istnieje. Jeśli przewiniesz ten wątek, niektórzy ludzie zamieścili podobne. Najlepiej będzie, jeśli zamieścisz pytania i objawy, a ja lub ktoś inny udzieli Ci wskazówek. Naprawiłem ich setki. Thanks for the answer. So how to repair this subwoofer? I don't want to make mistakes. The most pressing problems at the moment are: What are the names of the diodes D 2 and D 3 located there? There are no markings there. Specifically, it is about diodes (semiconductor diodes?) with only D2 and D3 written next to them. It's only about the NAME of these diodes, because there is no such name there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rossi32s Posted April 4 Share Posted April 4 10 minutes ago, Steve Keita 81 said: Thanks for the answer. So how to repair this subwoofer? I don't want to make mistakes. The most pressing problems at the moment are: What are the names of the diodes D 2 and D 3 located there? There are no markings there. Specifically, it is about diodes (semiconductor diodes?) with only D2 and D3 written next to them. It's only about the NAME of these diodes, because there is no such name there. This is not the thread for the unit you are working on. Nobody here has the plate amp you are working on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stout Posted April 9 Share Posted April 9 Who can I turn my circuit board into so I can get it fixed properly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rossi32s Posted April 9 Share Posted April 9 4 minutes ago, stout said: Who can I turn my circuit board into so I can get it fixed properly www.saoelectronics.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
backlog Posted April 9 Share Posted April 9 8 minutes ago, stout said: Who can I turn my circuit board into so I can get it fixed properly Honestly just buy a replacement amp. That design is really bad. I have had to replace amps in my Klipsch subs twice, from 20 year old sub to new sub. I tried a TI 3255EVM amp with Riden RD6018 bench power while waiting for Klipsch warranty replacement. It played clean and everything stayed cool unlike the klipsch design, but newer klipsch amps have external heat sinks. There are cheap commercial grade plate amps on Part Express that can bolt on without much trouble. Anything TI 3255 based will run cool, if it gets 53.5V and 12A for max power it can deliver 605 Watts in parallel bridge tie mode at 4 ohms. The Riden bench power fan never spun up and was inaudible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xtomasx Posted April 11 Share Posted April 11 On 12/15/2021 at 1:52 PM, AlphaBass said: @Chicago42 unfortunately, I have not replaced the caps yet. In ngen33r's response, he mentioned that the glue doesn't need to all be removed (maybe it doesn't have the same issue of becoming conductive?), but there is a ton of the glue that is there, so it's going to take a bit of work to do the repair. I'll post when I'm done whether it worked or not. did you get the problem fix? i have replace all my caps and the resister, but its still cutting in and out... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlphaBass Posted April 11 Share Posted April 11 I ended up giving up on the Klipsch amp that came with the subwoofer and replacing it with a Dayton Audio SPA1000 1000W Subwoofer Plate Amplifier purchase from Parts Express. The new amp sounds good. The only problem has been that the sensitivity for the amp’s auto-off function is too low and it turns off if the volume of the receiver isn’t loud enough. I have to turn up the receiver to movie theater volume to get the sub amp to turn on and that is often too loud for regular viewing (especially if someone in the house is sleeping). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
that1crzywhtguy Posted April 22 Share Posted April 22 Hi there! I just picked up a r-115sw free locally. It worked great for about 15 minutes when I tested it at home, then poof. No sound at all now. I found this thread and then poked around, seeking a dead resistor (started with r39). I don't see anything visually wrong at all, and r39 tested appropriately on my multimeter. Any other ideas of good places to start checking? I'd love to get this thing working! It would be replacing an energy 8" XL sub—a big difference. Thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rossi32s Posted April 23 Share Posted April 23 2 hours ago, that1crzywhtguy said: Hi there! I just picked up a r-115sw free locally. It worked great for about 15 minutes when I tested it at home, then poof. No sound at all now. I found this thread and then poked around, seeking a dead resistor (started with r39). I don't see anything visually wrong at all, and r39 tested appropriately on my multimeter. Any other ideas of good places to start checking? I'd love to get this thing working! It would be replacing an energy 8" XL sub—a big difference. Thanks in advance! Recap it, especially the 6 capacitors closest to the resistor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
that1crzywhtguy Posted April 23 Share Posted April 23 Cool I'll get on that. Anybody make a full list of cap values? The sub came back to life after some time and is working fine currently. When it went out I was really pushing it to see what It could do. Is it recommended to replace the resistor too even if it's not currently damaged? I'd be tempted to raise the watt rating on it, but would that pose a risk to other components? Thanks for the advice! -Sterling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rossi32s Posted April 23 Share Posted April 23 16 minutes ago, that1crzywhtguy said: Cool I'll get on that. Anybody make a full list of cap values? The sub came back to life after some time and is working fine currently. When it went out I was really pushing it to see what It could do. Is it recommended to replace the resistor too even if it's not currently damaged? I'd be tempted to raise the watt rating on it, but would that pose a risk to other components? Thanks for the advice! -Sterling If you scroll back a through this thread there are a few lists people made. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sanscorp Posted April 23 Share Posted April 23 I am also attempting to repair a 115SW and replaced all of the electrolitic capacitors. I have power (led is on) but no sound at all. I also replaced the large (burned) resistor and the 31C fet. I have an oscilloscope but just now and Inhave no idea where to start and how to safely measure on the amp board (not PSU). I have not been able to completely remove the glue.. specially under the two TL047 quad amps. Any hints on the removal of glue too? My hot air just died on me so I'll have to wait anyway. Thank you in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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