R-110SW / R-112SW / R-115SW Repair Blog

[Rossi32s]

1 hour ago, mmmboost said:

Hey guys, new on here but I've found this thread INCREDIBLY helpful.  Thank you so much for all of the detailed information on here.

I'm working on an amp that is also made by Indigo, but it's a little different from the usual units around here.  I'm really hoping to get some help with some component ID's.

The subwoofer is an Energy ESW-C10.  Purchased used and was stated to be working, but when I got it home it ended up being dead, so I replace the fuse.  Blew that one too.  Took the amp out and immediately saw the corrosion from the glue, a bulging top on one of the 220uF 200V caps, and thermistor with a chunk blown out of it.

Here's the issue, I need help identifying the two resistors that were baked under the crispy glue by the PDC board.  I tried to clean off as much glue as possible to be able to read the color codes, but the paint was damaged as well.

I'm hoping someone has some experience with this amplifier or can help me identify the resistors.

 

Your resistors are good.  If you are blowing fuses,  check the switching circuit for a short..

 

 

[mmmboost]

Thanks very much.  Just to be sure, I ordered a new 47 kOhm and a 150+160 kOhm resistor.

 

All my parts should be here tomorrow, so I'm hoping I can get this thing back up and running tomorrow.

 

I don't have a scope or a current-limited AC power supply (only DC)....  so what's the best approach for testing to see if this is going to work again.  The last thing I want is to cook the new MOSFETS or Caps.

 

[Rossi32s]

Just now, mmmboost said:

Thanks very much.  Just to be sure, I ordered a new 47 kOhm and a 150+160 kOhm resistor.

 

All my parts should be here tomorrow, so I'm hoping I can get this thing back up and running tomorrow.

 

I don't have a scope or a current-limited AC power supply (only DC)....  so what's the best approach for testing to see if this is going to work again.  The last thing I want is to cook the new MOSFETS or Caps.

 

Wire the hot or netural of main power in, in series with a 100w incandescent bulb.  If there is a short, the bulb will light instead of frying your power board.  LED bulb will not work.

 

 

 

[mmmboost]

Frig.....that's genius. Such a simple solution.  Now to go digging in the basement to try and find an incandescent bulb. Haha.

[mmmboost]

Well I got everything all back together and fired up with a 60W bulb (only 100 I had was a halogen).

 

The bulb came on dimly for an instant while the caps were charging and then went out again, so things are good there.  However, I wasn't able to replace the DIAC on the PDC board because Amazon delayed the shipment (and I'm guessing it's going to get cancelled).

 

I'm not really getting a voltage reading at the speaker outputs and the PDC board is getting quite warm, so I'm thinking I'm going to have to replace the DIAC......if I can ever find one in Canada.

[Rossi32s]

5 minutes ago, mmmboost said:

Well I got everything all back together and fired up with a 60W bulb (only 100 I had was a halogen).

 

The bulb came on dimly for an instant while the caps were charging and then went out again, so things are good there.  However, I wasn't able to replace the DIAC on the PDC board because Amazon delayed the shipment (and I'm guessing it's going to get cancelled).

 

I'm not really getting a voltage reading at the speaker outputs and the PDC board is getting quite warm, so I'm thinking I'm going to have to replace the DIAC......if I can ever find one in Canada.

You won't get a voltage at the speaker outputs without a signal in..  you need to measure your drive voltages coming from the power board. I'm going to guess that amp is about 100w.. so you're looking for + & - voltages coming off the power board around +25-30v & -25-30v.  Once you have that, you can focus on the signal flow.  The ribbon cable should have some writing on each wire too,  they don't look thick enough to carry the 4-5A at 25v needed for the amp board.  Where does J9&J10 go?  I'd also recap the entire secondary of the PS board. 

 

I've never worked on that exact model but you should have the 25v + and - with respect to power ground and likely a 5v for the audio signal circuit and possibly 3v.  

 

Ribbon cable likely also has a standby output to tell the power board to go into standby.. if it's stuck in standby, should still get your 25v long enough to charge the 2 caps in the secondary to get a close measurement to verify switching is working(until they drain, about 10 seconds or so).  Also verify your voltage on the primary caps.. if you are on a 120v system they will be around 160v DC.. if you are on 220.. around 310v DC.

 

Fair warning,  on a 220v system.. those caps will kick you pretty good.. don't slip with the probe either..  use the dim bulb until you feel it's sorted out.

 

 

[Steve Keita 81]

Hello.
I am looking for a service manual for the Klipsch SW 112 subwoofer.
Best Regards
SK

[mmmboost]

19 hours ago, Rossi32s said:

You won't get a voltage at the speaker outputs without a signal in..  you need to measure your drive voltages coming from the power board. I'm going to guess that amp is about 100w.. so you're looking for + & - voltages coming off the power board around +25-30v & -25-30v.  Once you have that, you can focus on the signal flow.  The ribbon cable should have some writing on each wire too,  they don't look thick enough to carry the 4-5A at 25v needed for the amp board.  Where does J9&J10 go?  I'd also recap the entire secondary of the PS board. 

 

I've never worked on that exact model but you should have the 25v + and - with respect to power ground and likely a 5v for the audio signal circuit and possibly 3v.  

 

Ribbon cable likely also has a standby output to tell the power board to go into standby.. if it's stuck in standby, should still get your 25v long enough to charge the 2 caps in the secondary to get a close measurement to verify switching is working(until they drain, about 10 seconds or so).  Also verify your voltage on the primary caps.. if you are on a 120v system they will be around 160v DC.. if you are on 220.. around 310v DC.

 

Fair warning,  on a 220v system.. those caps will kick you pretty good.. don't slip with the probe either..  use the dim bulb until you feel it's sorted out.

 

 

You know, I knew I shouldn't be seeing anything with no signal, but it was late and I guess I wasn't thinking straight. My board is slightly different than the Klipsch amps I see in this forum, but they share a lot of commonalities. I guess it's not obvious where I should be trying to see where I've got voltage A or voltage B, etc.

 

• To answer a few of your wonderings, the amp is rated for 150W RMS, 300W Peak.
• The Ribbon cable is 26 AWG so it's probably not going to be hauling a lot of current.
• J9 and J10 are the driver outputs.

 

I have 166V on both of the 220uF caps.

I don't seem to be getting much action from anything beyond the PDC though.

 

I've attached a new photo of all of the components that I have replaced. Should I be changing the two caps on the daughter board with the switches and the pots?  There is a 22uF and a 100uF.  They both measure out to be well within tolerance.

[Rossi32s]

2 hours ago, Steve Keita 81 said:

Hello.
I am looking for a service manual for the Klipsch SW 112 subwoofer.
Best Regards
SK

Doesn't exist..  if you scroll through this thread,  some people have posted some similar ones.

 

Best off posting questions and symptoms and I or someone else will guide you.  I've repaired hundreds of these.

[Rossi32s]

25 minutes ago, mmmboost said:

You know, I knew I shouldn't be seeing anything with no signal, but it was late and I guess I wasn't thinking straight. My board is slightly different than the Klipsch amps I see in this forum, but they share a lot of commonalities. I guess it's not obvious where I should be trying to see where I've got voltage A or voltage B, etc.

 

• To answer a few of your wonderings, the amp is rated for 150W RMS, 300W Peak.
• The Ribbon cable is 26 AWG so it's probably not going to be hauling a lot of current.
• J9 and J10 are the driver outputs.

 

I have 166V on both of the 220uF caps.

I don't seem to be getting much action from anything beyond the PDC though.

 

I've attached a new photo of all of the components that I have replaced. Should I be changing the two caps on the daughter board with the switches and the pots?  There is a 22uF and a 100uF.  They both measure out to be well within tolerance.

What is your DC voltage across the 2 points circled in red? Without seeing the bottom of the board I am going to assume that is the DC side of the rectified AC coming off of the switching transformer. 

 

[mmmboost]

39 minutes ago, Rossi32s said:

What is your DC voltage across the 2 points circled in red? Without seeing the bottom of the board I am going to assume that is the DC side of the rectified AC coming off of the switching transformer. 

 

I've got.....  0V  (sad trombone).

 

It seems like things are getting stopped up at the PDC board.

Here's a shot of the bottom of the board.  AC input on the LHS

 

Edited April 4, 2024 by mmmboost

[Rossi32s]

1 hour ago, mmmboost said:

I've got.....  0V  (sad trombone).

 

It seems like things are getting stopped up at the PDC board.

Here's a shot of the bottom of the board.  AC input on the LHS

 

This schematic is about the closest i can get you to that unit.  May want to start a new thread somewhere... this is really getting off topic for this Klipsch thread.

[Rossi32s]

4 minutes ago, Rossi32s said:

This schematic is about the closest i can get you to that unit.  May want to start a new thread somewhere... this is really getting off topic for this Klipsch thread.

 

[Steve Keita 81]

17 hours ago, Rossi32s said:

Nie istnieje. Jeśli przewiniesz ten wątek, niektórzy ludzie zamieścili podobne.

 

Najlepiej będzie, jeśli zamieścisz pytania i objawy, a ja lub ktoś inny udzieli Ci wskazówek. Naprawiłem ich setki.

Thanks for the answer.
So how to repair this subwoofer?
I don't want to make mistakes.
The most pressing problems at the moment are:

What are the names of the diodes D 2 and D 3 located there?
There are no markings there.

Specifically, it is about diodes (semiconductor diodes?) with only D2 and D3 written next to them.
It's only about the NAME of these diodes, because there is no such name there.

 

[Rossi32s]

10 minutes ago, Steve Keita 81 said:

Thanks for the answer.
So how to repair this subwoofer?
I don't want to make mistakes.
The most pressing problems at the moment are:

What are the names of the diodes D 2 and D 3 located there?
There are no markings there.

Specifically, it is about diodes (semiconductor diodes?) with only D2 and D3 written next to them.
It's only about the NAME of these diodes, because there is no such name there.

 

This is not the thread for the unit you are working on.   Nobody here has the plate amp you are working on.

[stout]

Who can I turn my circuit board into so I can get it fixed properly 

[Rossi32s]

4 minutes ago, stout said:

Who can I turn my circuit board into so I can get it fixed properly 

 

www.saoelectronics.com 

 

 

[backlog]

8 minutes ago, stout said:

Who can I turn my circuit board into so I can get it fixed properly 

 

Honestly just buy a replacement amp.  That design is really bad.  I have had to replace amps in my Klipsch subs twice, from 20 year old sub to new sub.  
 

I tried a TI 3255EVM amp with Riden RD6018 bench power while waiting for Klipsch warranty replacement.  It played clean and everything stayed cool unlike the klipsch design, but newer klipsch amps have external heat sinks.  There are cheap commercial grade plate amps on Part Express that can bolt on without much trouble.  
 

Anything TI 3255 based will run cool, if it gets 53.5V and 12A for max power it can deliver 605 Watts in parallel bridge tie mode at 4 ohms.  The Riden bench power fan never spun up and was inaudible.  

[Xtomasx]

On 12/15/2021 at 1:52 PM, AlphaBass said:

@Chicago42 unfortunately, I have not replaced the caps yet.  In ngen33r's response, he mentioned that the glue doesn't need to all be removed (maybe it doesn't have the same issue of becoming conductive?), but there is a ton of the glue that is there, so it's going to take a bit of work to do the repair. I'll post when I'm done whether it worked or not.  

did you get the problem fix? i have replace all my caps and the resister, but its still cutting in and out... 

[AlphaBass]

I ended up giving up on the Klipsch amp that came with the subwoofer and replacing it with a Dayton Audio SPA1000 1000W Subwoofer Plate Amplifier purchase from Parts Express. The new amp sounds good. The only problem has been that the sensitivity for the amp’s auto-off function is too low and it turns off if the volume of the receiver isn’t loud enough. I have to turn up the receiver to movie theater volume to get the sub amp to turn on and that is often too loud for regular viewing (especially if someone in the house is sleeping).