backlog

Honestly just buy a replacement amp. That design is really bad. I have had to replace amps in my Klipsch subs twice, from 20 year old sub to new sub. I tried a TI 3255EVM amp with Riden RD6018 bench power while waiting for Klipsch warranty replacement. It played clean and everything stayed cool unlike the klipsch design, but newer klipsch amps have external heat sinks. There are cheap commercial grade plate amps on Part Express that can bolt on without much trouble. Anything TI 3255 based will run cool, if it gets 53.5V and 12A for max power it can deliver 605 Watts in parallel bridge tie mode at 4 ohms. The Riden bench power fan never spun up and was inaudible.

I just use Apple TV 4K to send digital to Yamaha AVR, because I need Atmos, so a 2 channel dac in the middle just wouldn’t cut it. If I split audio off from TV it’s my understanding that the bitrate is lower on optical audio than on hdmi 8K, and coax audio is faster than optical but it doesn’t have multichannel. But who knows! Not me! However I did cancel my Apple subscription for a bit and used YouTube and Spotify free, and when I resubscribed I could totally tell a huge difference in the sound in the car and at home for both music and movies. So there’s that. Sometimes ya gotta break up to know what you had!

Everything practically has a DAC these days. The informative bit I got from Apple was that their own devices (at the time) didn’t sample high enough for their high res content they started serving. However the specs for iPhone 15 Pro Max are as follows, and because they reference Lossless I’m going to expect they mean what they say: Audio Playback Supported formats include AAC, MP3, Apple Lossless, FLAC, Dolby Digital, Dolby Digital Plus, and Dolby Atmos Spatial Audio playback User‑configurable maximum volume limit still you can try some dongles and see if they help your ears. https://www.engadget.com/the-best-dac-for-lossless-high-resolution-music-iphone-android-160056147.html

This made me think of

Everyone has freeze brain except the one without one.

It’s in the article…. The IEC (International Electrotechnical Commission) standard for rated speaker impedance is as follows: the minimum impedance shall not fall below 80% of the nominal (rated) impedance over the defined frequency range of the speaker. For example: 4 Ω speakers have a minimum impedance no less than 3.2 Ω 8 Ω speakers have a minimum impedance no less than 6.4 Ω

Impedance, damping factor, etc… I was looking for the electrical spec that determines speaker ratings but found this instead. Bass control is important. https://mynewmicrophone.com/the-complete-guide-to-speaker-impedance-2ω-4ω-8ω-more/

First Klipsch experience at a friend’s house on a pair of Heresy’s up high on a bookshelf in a sunken den circa 1980, Sammy Hagar Heavy Metal and Foreigner Juke Box Hero Still gives me chills, especially on my AL5s. But these heavy guitar bands are best heard cranked up and off axis, lol!!!

https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/direct-current/chpt-15/series-and-parallel-inductors/

I’ve got this exact set plus some. I’ve got the full 5000 lineup, two m5000s. I think the goal of this line was to literally give you exactly what we heard in the 80s, so the c-5000 is super flat and I usually play my CDs and vinyl with treble and base all the way up with the ns-5000s. I’ve tried different configs and will probably try more. I run my RX-A8A out to the c-5000 via ext direct, so I have full on/off and volume with Apple TV remote for everything. The m-5000s are hooked to the c-5000. Currently I use them to switch between the LaScalas and the NS-5000s. I’ve played with bridging, but the dB boost from the LaScalas is too much for the rest of the Atmos setup. The system is dead quiet, best noise floor I have experienced. When I was playing around with bass EQ I did hit the whatever they call it Xmax excursion ring or whatever in the AL5 without bridging so the M-5000 is plenty powerful for those speakers. With the SPL-150 sub and the AL5s I have couch shaking bass without ear bleed and the intelligibility I need for TV/movies. Honestly the intelligibility difference is astonishing comparing the AL5s to the ns-5000s. AL5s have that mid bass slam that wakes up your high school concert days, while the ns-5000s seem to more effortlessly dig a little deeper at lower volume, but in a different way, so I like both and enjoy switching them for music, however if I need intelligibility and big mouth midrange the AL5s reign supreme. If you want to max out the AL5s ala dance floor style klipsch has commercial high power 15” drivers if you want to go that far but for normal use the stock drivers are fantastic. If I remember the M-5000s use up to 600watts each but I think it’s staged and while they are warm they aren’t cooking eggs at idle. I think last summer I just used the RX-A8A amps for everything to save on a little heat. So I’ve got my summer and winter config. One config I am planning to try is running my CD and phono through the RX-A8A so I can feed those signals through the PEQ and get those two channel signals closer to what I enjoy with Atmos content. I can’t say enough good about the RX-A8A though. If I only had the C-5000 I wouldn’t actually know what the AL5s can do, but the pure 2 channel setup is still lovely and absolutely sounds like it should as a historical reproduction. If you prefer a concert eq for some content you’re going to need something else with a PEQ in the chain, whether it is an AVR like what I’m doing, or something else. My son drives cars with Xbox and cranks the bass and sub via iPhone and MusicCast. So I’ve got the “new” sound and the “old” sound if that makes any sense. Highly recommend the Yamaha 5000 lineup with AL5s!!! But don’t forget PEQ/room correction for modern content.

No, AirPlay is inferior to AppleTV. Sometimes I’m on my phone and just want to hear it see it on my screen and AVR, and I appreciate the convenience, but switching where the signal comes from Internet to AppleTV makes a difference, and I can tell a difference airplay to AVR, airplay to TV, and AirPlay to AppleTV. This article is about HomePod but it’s a similar situation…comparing an internet stream to an internet stream+bluetooth. https://www.digitaltrends.com/home-theater/apple-homepod-24-bit-lossless-audio-airplay-2/ Some implementstions will share the source url and offset with the other device rather than transmitting the content over Bluetooth, getting the content directly which is preferred for quality, then the iPhone becomes “just the remote” instead of the source. Use whatever is most convenient and enjoyable to you. Sometimes we work so hard to get the best quality that we give up because it’s not convenient enough.

That Avrus scenario is going to add significant latency to your setup with all the protocol switching. It’s fine for a set and forget movie/music, but not good for interactive, whether it’s learning a riff from your fav band, catching that missed moment on YouTube, or for grandkids that want big screen Xbox with low latency interaction. The time between hitting play/paise/rewind 15s/trigger and what you will see on screen and hear will be annoying if not unusable.