Bar 48 No-Power Repair Thread

[markymarkster]

@Had1964 Did you ever figure out what power supply to get?  My 600 Cinema soundbar stopped powering on about 3 months ago.

[OO1]

On 11/20/2023 at 1:37 AM, Marcgad said:

Hi Guys,

 

Thanks for this informative thread. I bought the ps in aliexpress and the output 5V is not enought even its 1A. Do you think the the output is not 1A because it cannot start up the stb and vdd. Tried connecting another external from my charger of my phone 2A 5V the soundbar turns on.

 my guess is you have incorrectly wired the PS  

[OO1]

3 hours ago, markymarkster said:

@Had1964 Did you ever figure out what power supply to get?  My 600 Cinema soundbar stopped powering on about 3 months ago.

 here you go

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GWCPTQB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[markymarkster]

14 hours ago, OO1 said:

 here you go

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GWCPTQB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thank you!

[markymarkster]

On 7/31/2023 at 11:04 AM, Chad59 said:

I signed up for this forum just to post my thanks for this thread. I also wanted to mention one difference for my Cinema 600 in particular. My wire colors were different: STB was red, VDD was white, and ground was black. I ended up connecting red and white to +5V from my power supply, and black to ground, and everything worked great! Here's what my original power supply looked like, which is what made me suspect the wire colors were different.

Do you have a picture of the location of the 24v wires on the old power board?

[Vijay VT]

Thank you guys! I had the same issue with power supply and fixed my soundbar using this post! 

Works just like new again! 

[markymarkster]

Thanks to everyone here for detailed instructions and pictures.  I was able to revive my Cinema 600!!! I know this is the "Bar 48 No-Power Repair Thread" but there was a lot of information about fixing the Cinema 600 as well and everything worked out perfectly!  Thanks again to all who contributed to this thread!

[Erin Bydlo]

Thanks for posting this...and the link. I used the info you supplied, replaced the power supply, and the did the happy dance, as my system was fixed for about $16. THANKS AGAIN

[Gtcdrums]

This process fixed my Cinema 600!

Ordered the 24v/5v PS from Amazon. Followed wiring directions given by Sixer and others listed in this thread. The 5v wiring in my Cinema 600 is white to GND, Black to VDD and Red to STB. Tied both the VDD & STB to +5v and the White wire to GND. 24v side was Red to +24 and Black to GND. It works again!! And all for $16.00. Many thanks to SixerFixer!

 

NOYITO AC to DC Isolated Power Supply Module DC 24V 4A 5V 1A Dual Output Power AC 120V (90-256V) 50-60Hz to 24V 5V 120W Industrial Power Module (Dual Output 24V 4A, 5V 1A, Blue) 

 

[Cinema 600]

Does anybody want a cinema 600 bar and wireless subwoofer for repair and resell? I have one each and remote but do not know if they work.  They were abandoned. 

[hugo353]

hola gente buscando informacion llegue a este grupo tengo la fuente modelo lps-u101d2405l a la cual me entro al taller para su reparacion, se ve que lo llevaron a otro lugar y le sacaraon un par de piezas estoy buscando quien me pueda dar la informacion de los valores de los capasitores c2 - c2a- c45- c41 y la duda es c44 no se si lo lleva en este modelo de fuente. desde ya muchas gracias a quien me pueda ayudar 

[KKurtz]

On 5/17/2022 at 8:23 PM, pconwell said:

I wanted to add my experience getting the Bar 48 back up and working. I can't speak for the Cinema 600 as this thread is for the Bar 48 - so my experience may or may not apply to the Cinema 600.

 

Symptoms: The control panel and lights on the Bar 48 started flickering, then a few days later stopped working all together. Since the speakers still worked, I ignored the issue as an annoyance. However, after another day or two, the speakers became very staticky and then stopped working all together. 

 

After disassembling the guts of the Bar 48, I tested the volage on the 5v side of the power supply - being very careful to not touch any of the 120v parts on the same board. I tested the voltage between GND and VDD. It would show 5v, but then rather quickly started to drop. Around 4.6v, the lights would stop functioning. The STB is 3.3 v out (more on this below) and it turns the 24v power supply on and off. I'm guessing that's why my lights stopped working (dropped below 4.6v) but the speakers were still working (still above 3.3v). Eventually, the 5v side dropped below 3.3v and the 24v side turned off - or at least that's my guess.

 

Side note: I don't have the proper tools to fully test capacitors, but I tested C05 and C06 as suggested by @ongtw75. C05 appeared to be not holding voltage, but otherwise seemed okay based on my rudimentary tests. C06 seemed to be fine. I replaced C05 with two 100uF capacitors but I still saw the same issues as described above. I didn't have the patience (or necessary replacement parts) to test the other capacitors, so I just moved on to replacing the entire power supply.

 

Observations and Reverse Engineering: Based on other posts in this thread and my own testing, I am fairly confident the power supply is set up as follows:

 

5v side:

VDD -> GND: 5v which is used to power the control board (lights, buttons, IR remote sensor, bluetooth, etc)

STB -> GND: 3.3v when the soundbar is on*

STB -> GND: 0.1-ish v when the soundbar is off*

 

24v side:

V+ -> V-: 24v to drive the speakers

 

*STB -> GNC is used to control the 24v side of the power supply. This supplies 3.3v from the control board back to the power supply when the power is turned on, so previous instructions to connect this to 5v+ are incorrect. You can either leave this unconnected or you can use it to trigger a relay (see below). If you really want to wire it to something, wire it to ground, not 5v+. But, if you are not wiring in a relay, the STB wire doesn't do anything so you might as well leave it be.

 

Solution: I ordered this power supply and this relay. The relay is not necessary - but if you want to recreate the original functionality of killing power to the speakers, then the relay will do the trick. Otherwise, you can wire the speakers directly into the 24v side of the power supply and just leave them "on" all the time. Probably not going to hurt much either way, I just like the idea of keeping the functionality as close to original as possible.

 

To keep things clear, I'll refer to the 3.3v STB wire as XXXX (the pattern marked on the wire), the 5v+ wire as Pink, the 5v GND wire as White, and the 24v + and - as Red and Black respectively.

 

To begin, I made sure everything was unplugged. Next, I clipped all the wires connected to the old power supply. You likely want to verify that your colors match mine before you go snip happy.

 

Next, I stripped and connected the AC mains power to the appropriate terminals on the new power supply. Mine was labeled AC-220v. The polarity does not matter.

 

Then, I connected the Pink wire to the 5v+ terminal on the power supply. You will probably want to verify with a multimeter, but mine was the DC2+ terminal on the power supply. This will supply power to the controller board. I also connected a pigtail to the 5v+ terminal as well, which I will connect to a relay (this is optional).

 

Next, I connected the White wire to the 5v- terminal, marked as DC2- on my power supply. Again, I connected a pigtail as well for a relay. At this point, you can test your setup if you want to. The controller board should power on. You should even be able to connect to Bluetooth, etc - but you won't get any sound yet.

 

If you are not planning to use a relay, you can simply connect the Red wire to the 24v+ (DC1+ on my power supply) and the Black wire to the 24v- (DC1-) and you are done. The XXXX wire can be connected to the 5v ground (DC2-) if you really want to - but there is no need to connect it to anything.

 

If you are planning to use a relay, instead connect Red to the NO (normally open) terminal and Black to the COM (common) terminal on the relay. Then connect your 5v+ pigtail to the DC+ terminal on the relay, and the 5v- pigtail to the DC- terminal. Lastly, connect the XXXX wire to the IN (trigger) terminal on the relay. Make sure the relay is set to HIGH switching. Now, whenever the soundbar is turned on, the STB (XXXX wire) will send 3.3v to the relay trigger (i.e. setting it high), causing it to close the "normally open" circuit.

 

You can reference the attached schematic drawing. It doesn't really matter, but just note that the blue wire is 3.3v going from the controller board to the relay (when the soundbar is turned on). Again, STB (aka the XXXX wire) does not need to be connected to any 5v sources (or 24v sources for that matter).

circuit (4).svgUnavailable

@pconwell I’m working on doing the same as you did for the repair of a Bar 48 soundbar. What gauge wire did you use for the pigtails?

[SteveKlip]

On 1/14/2024 at 3:51 PM, KKurtz said:

@pconwell I’m working on doing the same as you did for the repair of a Bar 48 soundbar. What gauge wire did you use for the pigtails?

 

Has anyone tried to incorporate a relay as suggested by @pconwell and gotten it to work.   It doesn't make sense to me - there is no 24V connection from the power supply to the speakers at the once it is complete.  How are the speakers powered?

 

Otherwise I have my Cinema 600 up and running again using the recommended power supply from Amazon.   Thank you to all that figured this out.   

Edited February 3 by SteveKlip
fix a mistake

[Ots gt 1030]

Thank you so much for sparking up this forum SixerFixer. I was able to use all the Info in here to fix my cinema 600 system. It's sad that Klipsch really doesn't put as much effort into consumer repairs anymore and just writes these good electronics off as bad. Hopefully more repair friendly consumer electronics start to show up again. 

[jondur]

Thanks for posting this repair solution.  I purchased a replacement power supply board for my Bar 48 that won’t power up,  I wired it in and checked output voltages and polarity but the unit still won’t power up.  
 

I’m at a loss now, any recommendations on common other causes?  
 

My Bluetooth sub may be a candidate for converting to analog input (might as well get the most out of what’s left).

 

 

[OO1]

On 2/7/2024 at 2:19 PM, jondur said:

Thanks for posting this repair solution.  I purchased a replacement power supply board for my Bar 48 that won’t power up,  I wired it in and checked output voltages and polarity but the unit still won’t power up.  
 

I’m at a loss now, any recommendations on common other causes?  

You wired the new Power Supply incorrectly or you may have a DOA Power Supply or a bad main board,

 

[jondur]

Here’s how I wired in the new power supply.  Checked the voltages and polarity, all good.  

 

When I plug in the AC power, the power supply green LED lights up and I get 24V and 5V output voltage from the new board.  I connected the ground (all white) wire to the -ve 5V lead and the other two wires on the +ve lead.  

 

Any suggestions on what else to check?

 

Edited February 11 by jondur

[TrippleD]

Like some of you already have, I just wanted to join in and say "Thank You!!" especially to SixerfFixer for starting this thread and everyone else that has contributed. I was able to get my cinema 600 up and running again yesterday thanks to the awesome info here, so grateful. Wanted to also share what I did if it can help anyone else.

 

I have a cinema 600 with the sub and surround 3's that I bought at the end of 2020 and mine went out in the same fashion that most others have described mid year 2023. The system had been nothing short of amazing up to that point with no issues and sound that would fill not only our basement but almost the whole house. So when the sound bar initially went down I was heartbroken! Life has been busy so my sound bar has been sitting idle since it stopped working with the intent to eventually fix it or try and get a replacement. 

 

I got serious about it this past week and went the route of repairing the original power supply. I liked the idea of keeping the original power supply if possible and not using an aftermarket one even though it sounds like you can certainly go that route with success if you choose to do so.  After reading this thread from start to finish I felt confident that I could replace the cap's on the 5v side and that would almost definitely do the trick...and it did. I only replaced cap's C05 & C06 (220uf 16V) on the original power supply. After removing the glue from the connections I disconnected all the power hookups to the power supply and completely removed it from the sound bar.  I'm a diy'er and fairly mechanically skilled. Never soldered before but after a couple google searches on the basics of soldering and how to remover soldered capacitors from a circuit board it really wasn't bad. Definitely takes a steady hand but if your careful and have patience many of you I bet could do it. From taking everything apart to putting it back together I probably spent 1 1/2 - 2 hours, and that was with some interruptions from kiddos. 

 

Again, thanks everyone for this awesome thread. Now we are having dance parties and movie nights again with proper theatre quality sound!!

 

[Mike Fox]

Great post! I bought the power supply listed in the thread and had a local computer guy install it. He says he is getting good power off the new supply, but there's still a problem. He says the electronic "board" is bad. Would anyone have any idea about how to obtain a new board? Without it, I guess I'll just trash the whole soundbar.

mike

[Ronzues]

I just found this thread because my Cinema 600 died one month short of 3 years. I have to give props to Klipsch in my case because they sent me a Cinema 800 for replacement free of charge and told me they don’t want the 600 back and I can do with it as I see fit. So…. I plan to attempt the repair on this thread and use in another room. Thanks for all the info here and I will follow up after the new power supply comes.