Front Mount(not intercooler)

[Invidiosulus]

I just finished switching the tweeter on my left heresy to a front mount.

Now the flare rate of the horn no longer gets cut off so abruptly by the 3/4" baffle.

The scariest part of the operation was the dissasembly of the K-77 so I could put the horn on the front of the baffle and then re attach the tweeter assembly from the backside.

For now the only difference I can hear in the sound is that the sweet spot is a little bit wider then before.

It is a little hard to tell though since I still have to switch the tweeter on the right side.

I'll propably do the right one tomorrow since I'm a little tired of dremeling at the moment.

I've thought about doing the midrange as well but the hole for the K-700 would take a bit more routeing then the tweeter.

I think John Albright said he did this to his LaScala's.

Is there anyone else who has done this mod?

Peace, Josh

[Frzninvt]

There is an easier way to flush mount the tweeter other than taking it apart. Get the "Z" brackets from Klipsch that they used to flush mount the K-77M in more recent versions of the Belle Klipsch and Klipschorns.

[Invidiosulus]

I've heard of the "z" brackets before.

This way worked just fine and I didn't have to get anything new

I just finished the second one this evening.

The high end doesn't seem quite so beamy now.

I don't lose as much of the crispness on the high end when I move to the side.

This will be nice when I have people over to watch movies and listen to music because I can now sit on the end of the couch and not feel as though I have left the sweet spot far behind.

The other mods I have performed on these speakers are damping the K-700 and adding a piece of 3/4" mdf to the back of the cabinet to cut down on unwanted resonance.

The damping of the midrange seems to help the mids get out of the speaker, they sound more direct and less distorted.

The added back piece seems to tighten up the bass somewhat.

I'm still curious as to why klipsch would only use a 1/2" piece of plywood for the backs of the heresy.

Next will be to build double thickness cabinets out of 3/4" 13 ply birch.

I don't think those would resonate too much.

Unfortunately this is gonna have to wait until I have money for the wood($$) and a place to build them.

Peace, Josh

[formica]

If you are looking for different heresy tweeks, you may want to try adding a port... the T/S seem to indicate it'll work... and several members here I believe tried it by simply building a new back panel with a rear port. Also if you are rebuilding the cabinets, you may want to look at increasing the size and porting them again... kinda like forte's or mini cornwalls.

But whatever you do, keep the original parts in-case you want to go back or for resale.

Rob.

[Invidiosulus]

There was a post a little while back by DJK where he said:

"Here is a mind blower:

Audax HT300Z2 + 15" PE passive (add 200gms) + Heresy + EV Interface A eq = 32hz at 98dB/W

The Audax has 4X the x-max than the K22 does. It is also 2dB more efficent. Make a new back panel and mount the passive on it. Add a 50µF cap in parallel with the woofer (with a type E network).

I can usually find the EV eq on eBay for ~$20"

Might be fun to try someday.

I actually kind of like the bass from the heresy the way it is, but it would be nice to not need a subwoofer as much.

Peace, Josh

[brother]

I used the "z" brackets to flush mount the tweeters on my LaScalas. The sound is truly improved by this mod and it looks better than the disassembly method when complete. I have seen the results of both. As far as the sound difference, there isn't any; they produce identical results.