KLF 30 center modification?

[HornEd]

Yeah, I know, the C-7 that occupies the critical space above my RPHD 65" was designed by experts... and, yes, it's one of the best center channels I have heard. But, now that I have three pair of KLF 30's I either need to change my amp to a 7.1 unit or keep my 6.1 config and turn one of the KLF 30's into a center channel... and further improve the timbre matching.

I expect to use the same KLF 30 cabinet (the monitor is big strong and level on top)and simply put cut out a new baffle board with the woofers on either side of horizontally mounted horns... seal it up and let 'er rip.

Oh, and I am not in any rush to part with the C-7. I figure if it is a total waste, I can always put it back together as a regular speaker... or follow the advice of the Set-Up DVD that suggests putting a floor standing duplicate main atop your TV.

All advice cheerfully accepted (with the possible exception of "spitting" ala Boa!). HornEd

------------------

"30 Something 6.1 Herd"

KLF 30 Mains

KLF 30 Modified Center

KLF 30 Surrounds

KLF 30 Rear Effects

SB-2 Front Effects

Subs: KSW-15 + 3 KSW-12's

Speaker Support Systems:

Mitsubishi RPHD1080i 65"

Yamaha RX-V3000 Receiver

... UNDER CONSTRUCTION!

[KOREDISH]

Can you tell me more about your modified KLF-30 Center?

Thanks

[dbflash]

HornED has not been posting in awhile (Hope everything is ok). He posted this awhile back. Also some other members have also done the mod.

I hope this helps.

KLF XX as a Center Speaker

The best way I have found is to buy a piece of MDF... I prefer the 3/4" at Lowes to the current MDF at Home Depot... but either will work.

CAUTION: MDF dust is very fine... use should use an inexpensive dust mask to protect your lungs and eyewear to protect your eyes.

The first step is to remove the grill and take out the speakers. They are mounted with screws. Detach the positive and negative wires and use masking tape and a pen to label them. The wires will fit the new speaker positions without a problem. My technique uses the old motorboard as a template to make a new one.

the motorboard is attached with Liquid Nails to the speaker cabinet. I use a rubber mallet called a "Dead Head" (it bounces less thereby putting more force to the task at hand) and hit the motorboard along the edges by reaching into the speaker holes. Try not to mar the edge of the speaker cabinet by prying. With patient whacking... the motorboard should come out in one piece. If it does break, you can still use it as a template.

Mark the center of the motorboard on the horn end.

Lay the MDF on a flat surface and use the motorboard as a template and trace around the outside. If you use the two good edges of the MDF for one side and the bottom. Mark at one edge the center of the MDF's longest side.

Line up the vertical center mark on the old motorboard with the horizontal center mark on the MDF. Slide the motorboard so that the edge is even with the edge of the MDF. Use a carpenter's square (or the equivalent) to be sure that the motorboard/template is square... then trace the inside of the horn cutout.

Next, draw a line on the MDF 2½" from each side of the horn cutout. Lay the motorboard/template atop the MDF as you did to trace its outline. Slide the motorboard/template horizontally until the inside edge of the mark (that is 2½" from the horn cutout trace) and trace the cutout for the first woofer. Then slide it further to trace the cutout for the second woofer.

Using a compass, trace a line 3/4" outside of all the marks for the speaker cutouts. This mark will be the outer limits of a 1/4" deep router run that will hold the woofers by their flanges.

Cut out the cutouts. Rout out the flange areas. At this point you may want to make the holes for the Klipsch method of holding on the grilles. These ball type grille holders may be purchased by calling 1 800 KLIPSCH and ask for Trey. You will have to use a special drill bit to match the factory's flat bottom to the hole... or just use a regular bit and chisel it somewhat flat. Or, you can just use some industrial strength Velcro from a craft store.

When all the cutting is done, wipe the MDF down with a tack rag (just want to get the fine dust off of it) and spray paint it with several thin coats of flat black. Allow sufficient time to dry between coats. This protects the MDF and cuts down reflections. The factory applies many coats.

Lay down a continuous (unbroken) bead of "Liquid Nails" on the lip of the cabinet. The intent is to have the liquid nails form a barrier to preclude air from escaping from the sides and making "embarrassing" noises in the middle of your music. Lay the painted new motorboard in the cabinet. I make it a press fit... but that is probably tighter than necessary.

Re-attach the appropriate speaker wires to the speakers. Laying each speaker in its appreciate cutout and screw them down. (I usually put the speakers in first, line them up neatly... and trace the openings in the speaker flanges on the new motorboard. I then drill pilot holes to facilitate mounting the speakers (motors to the engineers).

Put the grille on, put it atop your TV (if you can) and tilt it slightly forward aiming at a head in the sweet spot.

[KOREDISH]

Thanks for the Info. I have a pair of KG 4.5's I'm thinking about modifying to accomplish the same thing. I have KLF 30's as mains and am using the 4.5's as rears and a pair of KV3's as centers. I recently moved into a larger home, with a dedicated room for HT and Listening. The KV's aren't big enough now. I have been thinking of buying a C-7, but am wondering if a modified KG4.5 or KLF-10 or 20 wouldn't be better. A KLF-30 in my view is just too big to be a center. I'm curious about performance and how the modified speakers compare to the C-7. It seems to me that the woofers in the KLF-10-20 and 30 maybe too slow and big as compared to the C-7. I have a DLP TV, so shielding isn't a factor. I am curious about shielding though, and how its done. Anyone else do this before?

Thanks

KOREDISH

[STL]

From your list, a KLF20 would work too. I say that because it shares the same mid & hi horns that the KLF30 has. I would not use parts from a KG4.5 or KLF10. I myself just matched the tweeter and used different woofer to make my custom center channel. Read these threads for more details:

http://forums.klipsch.com/idealbb/view.asp?topicID=31872&sessionID={619C3F49-2506-4472-B99B-ED3CBA852EB7}

and

http://forums.klipsch.com/idealbb/view.asp?topicID=30935&sessionID={619C3F49-2506-4472-B99B-ED3CBA852EB7}

Sheilding a speaker involves using a magnet (roughly equal to the one use on the speaker itself). Glue this bucking magnet to the back of the speaker so it opposes the speaker's magnet. This basically negates the magnet field (but not totally).

[dbflash]

I agree with the above post.

I would either go with another KLF20/30 or KLFC7.

I am using KLF20's for fronts and KLFC7's for center and surrounds.

Works for me, but I am not into HT that much.

It sounds very good to me and the people who watch it with me.

Danny

[avman]

AVMAN WANTS A KLF-20 M.O. to 'HornEd-zontalise'

anybody???

[punch1]

KOREDISH,

If you ever decide to part with one of your KV3's, please let me know. I have patiently been waiting for a used one, but they are becoming more scarce. Just a thought. Thanks

Pat Wunsch