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Defective KLF30 glue on backing


johnymac

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I have a set of KLF 30s that I have owned 5 or 6 years now, maybe not that long. Have receipt somewhere, bought brand new.

Ok, about 3 or 4 years ago, the back became lose on one of my speakers. I notified where I purchased, that there was some defect glue used on some of the speakers. They would try and get me another set. That never happened, they ended up repairing the speaker for me. I contacted them shortly after, I thought it was loosening again. I was informed that the glue used had some flexibility and the movement was normal.

Last week I noticed the area that was repaired is coming lose again. I can feel air sneaking out when bass notes are player. It is starting to make that clacking sound again on bass notes.

These were repaired about 4 years ago. I wrote Klipsch an email last Saturday. I see it was opened Monday, but haven't heard anything back. I was hoping to get this speaker regluded.

I am not usre what to do at this point. I hate to tear the back off and try to reglue myself. Has anyone done this? If so, can I get some instructions on how I might be able to fix this? As well as what kind of glue to use of course! I was hoping since this was never really fixed properly the company may let someone try again. Maybe wishful thinking?

Thanks to anyone that replys in advance.

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This was a known failure mode in that series of speakers that resulted from a mismatch in the glue and the inner surface of the box panels. Please send me a PM indicating who did the initial repair. Was it your dealer? Did you send them back to Klipsch?

The repair requires the loose panels be removed, all glue remnants scraped off, teh surface of the areas to be glued must then be scuffed with sandpaper and an appropriate glue, such as Liquid Nails panel adhesive applied. It's work but can be done at home if you're inclined.

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I had the same problem with my klf20. Actually, it was the front and back of both speakers. It's fairly easy to repair. I found that the best way was to remove the 4 drivers from the front panel and push the rear panel out through the driver cutouts. Once the rear panel is out, simply scrape off old glue with a putty knife and replace with liquid nail. Let dry overnight before reassembling.While you have the speaker apart you might want to check to see if the front is loose also. It'll save you some aggrevation down the road. Good luck.

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Only the upper right hand corner of the back is loose. I question whether I can get the rest of the backing free? Think it would be possible to just glue the area that is loose? If not, how would you suggest I get the good glued area free?

Thank so much for the info guys!

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Mine wereonly partially loose also. I wasn't able to get enough of an opening to apply the glue without taking it off completely. Just start at the point where it is loose and gently push out slowly working your way around the edge. The glue that was defective glue they originally used dried to a soft consistansy like caulk. There is no danger of breaking anything as long as you take it slow,and again, start from the point of where the glue is no longer adhering where the back is loose.

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Being a carpenter by trade, I am curious what is the material used for the back and carcase, what is the gluing surface of these parts (painted? Melamine?), and how the panel is connected to the speaker. Is there a cleat running around all four sides on the inside (like a Cornwall), or is the back inset into a "rabbet?" Is there a way, once you've removed the drivers from the motorboard for interior access (good idea, sdfan!), to use a small "Wonder Bar," or pry bar of some sort to pry the back loose?

fini

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The sides are rabbeted plywood with a 3/8 inch back and 3/4 inch plywood front(if I remember correctly). The glue originally used dried clear and was in no way rigid. By gently pushing from the inside the panel easily comes loose. you can then with a putty knife pretty much pull most of the glue off in one long bead. What little remained I just covered with a long bead of liquid nail"put the rear panel back on and placed 3 25lb. weights on top overnight. Repeated the process for the front the next day and 3 years later still no problem. As far as the rabbeted surface goes where the glue goes it is just the plywood with a little bit of flat black paint overspray which the glue easily adheres to.

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