belial Posted June 11, 2001 Share Posted June 11, 2001 I know, I know, I'm stupid for even asking this, but ... Is it possible to add a real wood veneer, over the fake wood veneer of the RF-3? That would mess up the sound, right, if I were to glue real wood over the sides and top of the cabinent? Sorry, I just had to ask! Still agonizing over the decision of whether to go for the RF-3, or the nicer looking RB5 bookshelf ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete C Posted June 11, 2001 Share Posted June 11, 2001 The sound comes from the volume-size of inside the cabinet, and the strength of the wood with bracing. Adding a veneer to the outside won't affect anything if done right, i.e. not loose and rattling. I plan to do that to my Cornwall so it can join our household again. Comparing specs, more bass from the larger cabinet obviously. More dBs from the double woofers and less attenuation on that great horn driver design. It takes 2x the amplification to get a 3dB increase, if my memory serves me well. It is time for an A-B comparison at your local Klipsch dealer. A tower speaker has about the same room presence as a bookshelf speaker on a stand, IMO. I went with the RF-3s. (But my Cornwall has been black for 30 years and only recently did it fail the WAF.) You're right to think the RF-5 is a bit too high $$ for veneer and slightly better specs. BobG did say "better soundstage," but boa12 got that by bi-wiring. The KLF line hasn't reappeared in the Classic section yet, but I'm thinking it is the KLF-20 substitute made cheaper by not needing the 3-way crossover and tweeter anymore. My ears sure like the RF-3 horn and I'm sure I'd like the new one in the RF-5. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belial Posted June 11, 2001 Author Share Posted June 11, 2001 Wow--so I could do that? Hey, thanks, PeteC, that opens up a whole new realm of possibilities! Maybe I could get those nice, deep cherry colored Klipsch towers after all! Thanks a lot for your response! Now I just have to figure out what kind of adhesive would work with that vinyl .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Garrison Posted June 12, 2001 Share Posted June 12, 2001 belial, If you don't have some experience in woodworking and veneering, make sure you have a pro do this for you. It's a lot harder than it looks to get the veneer to lay properly. After you've done it a few times, it's not a big deal, but don't use your RF-3s as the test bed of your first veneering project... you'll probably hate yourself. And once you've got it glued on there, if it's messed up, getting it fixed is a royal PITA. Ray ------------------ Music is art Audio is engineering Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jobman Posted June 12, 2001 Share Posted June 12, 2001 OK, so as long as we are on the topic of changing color, how hard would it be to refinish my Cornwall 1's? They are a light oak, and do not match anything in the house. (WAF is very poor) Since they are the Oiled oak veneer, does the finish need to be stripped and sanded? I really want to get to more of a dark cherry or mahogany. (I realize this will no longer match the original code on the lablel, but they really could use the refinish anyway, and since I never plan to sell them....) Thanks in advance jobman Front: Cornwall 1's Center: C-7 Rears: Heresy 1's and all the other goodies Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boa12 Posted June 12, 2001 Share Posted June 12, 2001 jm, i had a local independent furniture refinishing lady do my corn Is. though she took about a month, she only charged $150 for the pair. i had some cheap mahogony miniwax stain & same sealer on them that really looked bad as compared to the job she did in a great looking cherry finish. then had a local frame shop put the newer black mesh cloth i got direct from klipsch parts on the grills. they look like brand new & the cherry/black really looks great together. & yes she did sand them off everywhere 1st. i imagine mostly w/ a belt-sander but probably some also by hand. ------------------ Klipsch KLF 30 (front), KLF C-7, Cornwall I (rear) Velodyne HGS-18 sub woofer Monsterbass 400 sub interconnects & Monster CX-2 biwire & Z-12 cable Marantz SR-8000 receiver Sony DVP-C650D cd/dvd player Sony Trinitron 27" stereo tv Toshiba hi-fi stereo vcr Technics dual cassette deck Scientific Atlanta Explorer 2000 digital cable box Boa's Listenin Lounge: Klipsch RF-3 (front), RC-3, cheap little Technics (rear) Monster MCX Biwires Sony STR-DE935 a/v receiver Kenwood KR-9600 AM/FM stereo receiver (vintage 1975) Russound AB-2 receiver switch to RF-3 Teac PD-D1200 5-disk cd changer Technics SL-1950 turntable/AT LS500 cartridge Sega Genesis game player Sub: None yet rock on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belial Posted June 13, 2001 Author Share Posted June 13, 2001 Hey Ray, what about the possibility of using screws to attach the veneer to the RF-3? I know it is hard to use glue with vinyl, and then you always have to watch out for the fact the wood might warp or bend ... what do you think? Thanks, as always, for everyone who took the time to respond! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HTADDICT Posted June 13, 2001 Share Posted June 13, 2001 insane answer of the month! Why not 36 grit them, 3mpanel bond sheet metal to the sides and automotive paint them. HMMMM, chameleon rf3's, plum crazy purple klf's, canary yellow subwoofers!!!!! paint them to match your car or motorcycle! (I work at a bodyshop, forgive my excitement Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mighty Favog Posted June 15, 2001 Share Posted June 15, 2001 Plum Crazy Purple? Gee, and I thought I left my 71' Plymouth Roadrunner in the garage! Sorry for leaving a stupid post. This message has been edited by tblasing on 06-15-2001 at 01:22 PM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HTADDICT Posted June 16, 2001 Share Posted June 16, 2001 I was thinking more about this last night, and I think absolutely anybody can do this with perfect results anytime. The trick is the right products, what I recommend would be fusor, it's an automtoive bonding agent, works on wood, fiberglass, metal, paint whatever. I've used this stuff on many cars, I work on everything from motorhomes to exotics. I used fusor on a widebody kit on an eclipse drag car, fast dry time and excellent tensile strength. It's about 30 dollars a tube. (One would do at least 2 rf3's) But you do have to have an applicator gun. Trust me this stuff will work 100 times better than any oldtimers stupid wood glue would. once it's on it aint ever coming offf period! I realize there's alot of questions that goes along with how to do this, and alot of people would like to. This way is cheaper than takeing it to someone, and I think even an average person would have better results than a veneering shop. If you still want to do this reply and I'll explain more (trust me it works and it's easy) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BobG Posted June 17, 2001 Share Posted June 17, 2001 belial, Don't spend a lot to have the RF-3's redone in wood veneer. Unless you have an insane woodworker (aren't most?) nearby who wants the job, just sell the RF-3's and buy RF-5's in the pretty cherry veneer. Not only will you have about the same $ invested, you'll get better sound as a result. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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