Rivendell61 Posted January 23, 2004 Share Posted January 23, 2004 Max-- I'll offer a little different spin on two points: Ply/MDF. I am sure there is much discussion out there about this that I know nothing about regarding speaker application....but ply has it's advocates. I think there is some MDF in Khorns but all the 'traditional' Heritage are ply. It is more durable, can take screws, etc. High end ply (Baltic/Brazilian) is considered very good for speakers and certainly costs more than MDF. Some very nice cabinets are made of it: Lamhorns for instance. Regarding the 1 and 2 versions of Forte and Chorus, I think they also designate the change from exponential to Tractrix lens in the mid-horn. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxg Posted January 23, 2004 Share Posted January 23, 2004 Well you learn something new every day. According to this site the KHorn and the Belle are made of both birch plywood and MDF, the Scala of Plywood only and the Heresy of MDF only. Doesn't really help answer the question though. I guess it is probably not going to be the deciding feature in choosing a set of speakers.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rivendell61 Posted January 23, 2004 Share Posted January 23, 2004 So the Heresy is MDF....? How 'bout that. Well, you learn something new everyday! Thanks Max, Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsmyforte Posted January 23, 2004 Share Posted January 23, 2004 the heresy 2 is mdf, i think most of the heresy 1 was plywood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krustyoldsarge Posted January 23, 2004 Share Posted January 23, 2004 Natgun, 100% agree with maxg's recommendations, especially concerning the Forte's. I'd like to get my hands on a set of Forte II's or ChorusII's myself. Several years ago in Korea, I shared a barracks suite with a dude who threw a party one Saturday night. He was blasting a song with the lyrics "I'm a baaaaad maaaan" throughout the whole dorm with his Fortes, while everyone was downing a greenish-white concoction called "White Dog" out of a cooler jug. I thought the concrete was gonna crack, the Forte's power was so freaking outrageous!! We all woke up with hangovers to the fact that whether we were "bad men" or not, we were certainly HURTING men. A KT-88 amp is absolutely the way to go for cranking up rock, I'm gonna rebuild my Dyna's this way. However, should you decide for some reason to go solid state, give an old (pre-1980) Marantz amp or receiver a listen. You'd probably want to go 70wpc or more. I can assure you the bass from my 2385 receiver is prodigious with my little KG4's. Paired with Forte's or Choruses, it would be absolutely brutal!... (my Marantz 2385 cost me $280) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krustyoldsarge Posted January 23, 2004 Share Posted January 23, 2004 Think a main difference between a Forte and ForteII is that the Forte has a 12" passive radiator and the ForteII's is 15" Pretty sure the Chorus is bass-reflex via front firing tubes while the ChorusII uses a rear-mounted passive radiator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krustyoldsarge Posted January 23, 2004 Share Posted January 23, 2004 Sorry for 3 posts. My internet connection is acting up on me. As far as amps go, a "Van Alstine" modified Dynaco ST70 driving KT88's might have the sound you're looking for, within budget. Problem with the stock ST70 is that the bass is often flabby. Jolida makes some KT88 amps for reasonable money, any of you guys have an opinion? Never owned a Scott amp, but I think the guys here are recommending it with good reason. Own lots of Fisher, and it's great stuff. However, when I study photo's of Scott stuff I've seen online, I get the impression they might be a little bit better built than the Fisher. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KungFuNat Posted January 23, 2004 Author Share Posted January 23, 2004 ---------------- On 1/21/2004 7:01:09 PM dbflash wrote: The money you mentioned you could buy new Wrights 3.5 amps and preamp if you want to go the SET route. (http://www.wright-sound.com/products/listing.asp --------------- what is SET? ive heard that in reference to amps before... would that wright amp power belles or lascalas ok? is that write a mono amp only? so i would have to buy 2 of them? could i pair it with a solid-state preamp? i want to hook these suckers up to a digital optical input... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dzapper Posted January 23, 2004 Share Posted January 23, 2004 You won't want set for realistic levels on rock due to their limited output power. The one I'm listening to the jazz channel on now has 8 watts max (and that is a high powered SET!). Vocals and strong bass tax it too much and degrade the sound IMHO. SET amps are very sweet sounding though. Crystal clear transients and clean mid-range. That guy is playing piano right behind my head. Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KungFuNat Posted January 24, 2004 Author Share Posted January 24, 2004 so then you would also reccomend a vintage scott amp, i see from your sig, thats what you have.. also, i have another question, when a speaker is rated at 100w continuous, and 400w peak, is under powering it with a tube amp OK? i see the scotts that have been reccomended to me are all well under 100w. again, i apologise for my noobishness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsmyforte Posted January 24, 2004 Share Posted January 24, 2004 power ratings on speakers is just a rough calculation. don't regard them as the law. your ears will determine power level. however its always better to have headroom in an amp (more power) than the rated speaker. unless you listen at low to moderate volumes all the time a 1-3 watt tube or SS amp may not be for you. all amplifiers will clip the output signal when they can not produce any more clean power under say 1% THD. clipping will damage a speaker at 5 watts output faster than driving a speker with 140watts with very low distortion. don't judge a book by its cover, there for don't judge an amp or speaker on its power rating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piranha Posted January 24, 2004 Share Posted January 24, 2004 ---------------- On 1/24/2004 1:17:55 AM NatGun wrote: so then you would also reccomend a vintage scott amp, i see from your sig, thats what you have.. also, i have another question, when a speaker is rated at 100w continuous, and 400w peak, is under powering it with a tube amp OK? i see the scotts that have been reccomended to me are all well under 100w. again, i apologise for my noobishness. ---------------- Don't be fooled by the output WPC of a tube amp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KungFuNat Posted January 25, 2004 Author Share Posted January 25, 2004 so even if i like to listen to music at fairly loud volumes, a 60w tube amp will produce enough power?? any other, more recent tube-amps you guys might reccomend?? im willing to spend way more than $300 and i dont really like the idea of buying "vintage" hardware, i think id like something more current... also, im gonna be hooking up a solid-state pre-amp because im gonna be running my music out of my computer(lossless codec) via digital-optical output. will this affect what kind of amp i buy?? any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsmyforte Posted January 25, 2004 Share Posted January 25, 2004 even lossless audio (flac, shn) though its not compressed coming from a computer is where the fault lies. the noise floor on pc audio cards is substandard and frequency response is not great. i would never use a pc for hifi audio. however it can be pleasant if you spend enough $$$ on a good card. i would rather put my money on a class-a preamp for 2 channel. do as you wish but i am confident you'd be much happier buying a dedicated preamp. the 60wpc tube amps can get very pricey. tube amps new are very expensive even for 20wpc. like already mentioned in this thread don't count on rated power to be your driving force in deciding on an amplifier. there are a few people who rebuild vintage tube gear on this site who i'm sure will treat you right on a quality rebuild. i myself am a solid state lover, and most hi quality amps of 100wpc is more than enough for klipsch speakers. starting out i would recommend just listening to the speakers first wtih any kind of descent amp. then after your familiar with the sound choose your path of SS vs. tubes. don't be fooled by hi wattage advertising. 5 watts is LOUD on any klipsch speakers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KungFuNat Posted January 25, 2004 Author Share Posted January 25, 2004 well i am trying to eliminate the sound-cards audio hardware by using the digital optical out to a preamp.. correct me if im wrong, but using optical output from my computer is akin to a pass-through to a preamp, which is where the D/A converters will take over. this should send a 100% accurate digital audio signal out of the computer into the preamp. im planning on getting a pretty nice pre-amp for this purpose.... also, who should i contact on the forum about getting a rebuilt tube-amp?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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