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To Bi or Not to Bi - that is the question


MarvinG

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1) I'm just a regular guy with an HK AVR 525, and soon-to-be-proud owner of RF-35, RC-35, RS-35, SVS 20-39pci system. I am now looking at cables and I see option for a standard 2 connector or bi-wire 4 connector configuration. I dont want to complicate my life any further - does bi-wire even apply to me? Don't I only have 2 connectors on my AVR and 2 connectors on my speakers??

2) I tired to do a little research on this prior to posting, but it clearly did not help! On one site, I found a nice explanation that read ...."Why Bi-Wire? In a single wired system unwanted mechanical and electrical resonances appear as distortion at both sets of speaker terminals. Due to the impedance of the cables these distortions will not be entirely cancelled by the amplifier, instead modulating between the two sections of the speaker system, degrading sound quality. With bi-wiring this interaction is minimised as signal distortion is "seen" at the amplifier's output where it can be more effectively cancelled. The purpose of bi-wiring is to present a clean signal at both the bass and treble speaker terminals.".

This sounded nice, and the Klipsh FAQ goes on to say how to do the wiring....ie "Your speaker must have two separate positive and negative connections (one set for the woofer and one set for the midrange/tweeter.... but again, do the RF-35s even have these connections? If not the FAQs should clarify which models do and do not have this capability.

3) Even if it does, the instructions sound like a non-bi-wire connection, ie ". Connect one wire between the positive terminal on the amplifier/receiver the positive terminal on the speaker. Connect the other wire from the negative terminal on the amplifier/receiver to the corresponding negative terminal on the speaker. Is there a wiring diagram somewhere which should the difference between conventional wiring and bi-wiring?

Thanks

Marvin

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Even if I had cables, my question is can I even use them on the RF-35s and my HH AVR 525? Is bi-wiring even a physical option on this equipment?

I am under the impression I only have two connectors at the back of the speaker (I dont own them yet) and only two at the back of the amp ( ie plus and minus), so how does one bi-wire? I guess I'm mssing something here!!

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Hi

Yes I believe that you can biwire, I have the rf-3 II, and you can biwire those if there are too sets of posts on the speaker, then yes you can. Your reciever doesnt make a difference, you are just hooking too wires to one post on the reciever... or something like that...no special post are required on the reciever. I never biwired mine I just took off the crap metal staps and replaced them with a nice wire!

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OK, I finally get it ( dah!). A picture is worth a thousand words. Found this pic which helps newbies grasp the concept asap : http://www.davidmannaudio.com/faq/faq3.html

(..and this link for bi-amp schemes :http://www.davidmannaudio.com/faq/faq12.html)

So thats HOW to do it. Now WHY or WHY NOT to do it is another matter. But in my csae I need to decide quickly as I want to order cables now.

This forums suggests, to try it, and hear the different for yourself, but I guess I was looking for more compelling reasons.

Other forums note the following insight:

1. your speakers, when NOT set up for bi-wiring have the input to the woofers wired in parallel to the input to the mid/tweeters (each via their portion of the crossover circuit inside the speaker). If your speakers are bi-wire capable, this is real obvious: the parallel hook up is the removable jumper between the terminals. IT IS THIS PARALLEL COMBINATION THAT SETS THE 'NOMINAL' SPEAKER IMPEDANCE (8 ohms, for example).

2. when bi-wiring, you are simply moving that parallel connection FROM the speaker end of the speaker wire TO the amp end. Your amp does not 'see' ANY difference in impedance! Why does it help, then? Because the speaker wire inductance serves to isolate the interactions of the bass signals from the treble signals; it also reduces the impedance/phase interaction between the hi-pass section of the crossover with the low-pass section.

3. Using the 'speaker 1' and 'speaker 2' terminals for bi-wiring simply moves the woofer/tweeter parallel connection one step further upstream, into the amp. This has no performance advantage over hooking both sets of wires to the same terminals (but may be more convenient). IT WILL NOT CHANGE THE IMPEDANCE 'SEEN' BY THE AMP! There is NO danger in doing this!

And this ten year old article describes pros and cons : http://www.sonicdesign.se/biwire.html This article is not all that warm to the idea.

Still not convinced either way. Does KLIPSCH not have a recommendation on this?

Marvin

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I heard bi wiring is only good for a speaker cable with crappy highs and lows. Just replace the jumper with bare wire non braided and buy kick butt speaker wire. Can't beat it. By the way i read this out of mapleshaderecords.com i don't know how i got this catalog but their are some helpful tips in it. So it isn't me saying it it's the catalog i don't even have biwire or ever owned them so take it with a grain of pepper.1.gif

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With bi-wiring, effective guage is improved, but this is not relavant if it was not limiting to start with.

Concluded I'm not going to bother.

Some convincing references at:

-http://www.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/5/10623.html

-http://www.audiovideo101.com/learn/knowit/speakers/speakers19.asp

-http://www.cobaltcable.com/product/pair_speaker_cable.htm

Seems to be only a real factor, in some cases only, with all other more audible fctors eliminated, when used in conjunction with bi-amping, and even then it's a theoretical debate if "different" means "better".

Marvin

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