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Xover / capacitor questions!


kegman

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I've got my rc7's apart right now and I'm going to do some tweeking

on the horn part of the xover and was wondering if one should leave

or replace the mica caps with poly's. (2 rc7's as mains)

What I'm planning on doing is Bypassing whatever caps I use with pio's

that I have and up the 2 ohm resistor in line with the horn to a four.

The speakers are a little to bright for me and I figured the pio's may

give me a little more juice per say and the extra padding on the horn

to tame the brightness a little!

Any thoughts? Sound about right?

I've got mills & dale wirewound resistors to replace the originals with.

And I have plenty of quality poly caps in various sizes.

The pio caps I have range in brand but mostly around .10uf in size.

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I have been very happy with the more natural sound from my RF-7s after installing Jensen PIOs in the series cap locations. Hovland Musicaps may be OK also, but I am very pleased with the Jensens.

I strongly recommend you voltage condition any cap, before installing it, by applying a substantial voltage (under the cap's rating) for a few seconds in both polarities. I use about 70V through a 5KOhm resistor. The resistor is there just in case I happen to be unfortunate enough to get a completely faulty cap that shorts. The purpose of the Voltage conditioning is to "clear" any minor defects in the dielectric layer. Some people consider this practice unnecessary, but cap defects do exist and they can sound pretty bad.

You may wish to try the caps before you change the resistor. The caps may be all you need. The change in my RF-7s was substantial.

Leo

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Thanks for the reply!

So you just use 2 caps, the series ones on the horn section of say

12uf and 3.75uf "that's what the rc7's use anyways" ?

Not bypassing any other caps just two large pio caps?

Just wondering as it would seem most people use a smaller pio cap

to bypass the larger with as the larger value pio's are very expensive!

Not critcizing at all just making sure that is what your doing.

Any thoughts as to bypassing with pio's?

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Having had the originals, inexpensive polys, Hovlands and Jensens in my Cornwalls, I will venture an opinion. If you are looking to have a less bright sound, then the Jensens will do the trick. The Hovlands are very accurate, but they are brighter. I have found I needed to add another 1/2 - 3/4" of rope caulk to my Cornwalls after adding the Peach which has Hovlands in it. The Peach has great detail, but it was brighter, so a slight tweak was necessary.

The Jensens are good with "brighter" speakers, but I would not try them with a pair of a more lush sounding speakers. The Jensens provide the same level of detail, but are "easier on the ears". The only problem, it is not a cheap tweak, but if you don't like it, I'm sure Dean would take the Jensen's off your hands to use in one of his networks, so it would not be too expensive of a risk, other than shipping and a usage cost.

Good luck.

edit: Just took a look at the prices for Jensens, 4.0 uF $31.95 and the 12 uF $83.85 each. http://www.partsconnexion.com/catalog/CapacitorsFilm.html

They 4.0's are okay price wise, but the 12's are a very big expense.

Maybe Dean could offer up his best suggestion?

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I have rope caulked the squawker horn from the magnet towards the mouth of the horn. Some go all the way and even put two layers of rope caulk on the horn. I only go a certain distance, I think it was about 4 inches and found I needed to add a bit more. I was trying to "tame the squawker" a bit and make the horn easier to listen to at volume. By adding a bit more rope caulk, I get a deader sound (too much and it sounds too dull to me and too little is too bright). I find it a lot like Goldilocks trying to find the porridge that is just right.

Rope caulk is availabe from Home Depot or Lowes and is about $2.49 for a two foot strip that has eight thin pieces joined together. At least that is the price in Canada. It comes off easily if you don't like the result and therefore is an attractive option. Dynamat and similar products are more expensive, and more difficult to remove if you don't like the result.

Don

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I have had some mixed results with "bypassing." I know the PIOs are expensive, but for me, worth the cost (one can understand that Klipsch has to hold the line on expense of crossover components). The two caps you mention are equivalent to what I changed in the RF-7s, although of different value. I would have upgraded others, and probably eventually will, but have delayed because of cost and time. I suspect the nonseries caps will prove important also.

Leo

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Leo, Agree with your whole post and I'll look into the correct size pio's

when I get a few extra bucks.

For right now since it's easy and I have the parts I'm bypassing the series

caps with new .22uF @ 400V Mil Spec german PIO Caps and replaced the series

resistor with a mills 3.5ohm verse the original 2ohm.

We'll let that fly for awhile and see what happens, I'll probably replace the

caps with the larger jensen pio's in the future when I get some. But let's see

what this sounds like for now!

Thanks and anymore suggestions from you or anyone else is welcome and wanted.

Se yu!

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Well still a little bright even after the work! But better!

So it's time to do some cap replacement.

Ordered some kimber caps, we'll try those.

If that doesn't get me where I want I'll try

some jenson pios, first just the 3.75uf in the

last chain of the series caps then from there if needed.

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Unfortunitaly dean I had allready done the mods I

praposed before I got your info. (live and learn)

Now when the other parts come in I will do as you say.

Didn't feal it necasary to rip it apart again just to

do the resistors until I get the other parts.

Just have to wait for my parts order then we'll go at it again!

Thanks! Any thoughts on internal box treatments?

Stuffing and such?

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