gibby214 Posted March 31, 2005 Share Posted March 31, 2005 I am building a component rack and was wondering if someone could please help me with dimensions of pro amps? Ive looked on a couple sites and they all say they are 19 inches wide, Now is that width of the chassis itself or width with the ears or mounting brackets. Obviously I do not own any large components now but Possibly will upgrade in the future. Just wanted to have all options open for upgrades. Thanks for the help Gib Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dzapper Posted March 31, 2005 Share Posted March 31, 2005 The face plate is 19" with 18" between insides of the mounting cutouts. Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gibby214 Posted March 31, 2005 Author Share Posted March 31, 2005 Thanks Rick Is this the widest gear out there? Gib Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-MAN Posted March 31, 2005 Share Posted March 31, 2005 It depends on the gear, most gear that claims to be rack-mountable is 19" wide. Other non-professional, that is, not made for fitting in a rack can be any dimension that the producer decides. I think that the Sunfire is a fairly large footprint amp that is probably not rack-mountable, but I could be wrong. I remember it "looking big". DM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minn_male42 Posted March 31, 2005 Share Posted March 31, 2005 ---------------- On 3/31/2005 5:51:49 PM 3dzapper wrote: The face plate is 19" with 18" between insides of the mounting cutouts. Rick ---------------- it is actually 17 3/4" between the rails..... additionally - the sunfire amps are available in two versions... the standard version is 19" wide while the architect version is 17.5" wide... they call it the architect version for all the custom installers who use professional racks in their installs most consumer equipment will fit into a pro rack.... but it usually does not follow the standard rack spacing.... one rack space = 1.75" high so by doing the math.... two spaces = 3.50" high three spaces = 5.25" high four spaces = 7.00" high you can usually set consumer equipment on a rack shelf or go all out and get a custom faceplate built for you by middle atlantic http://www.middleatlantic.com/rsh/rshcus2.htm and now they even make them in silver to match your silver components Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrWho Posted April 1, 2005 Share Posted April 1, 2005 http://www.colomar.com/Shavano/rackcase.html It's always better to build too big and then you can always use washers to make it narrower. You can also purchase the rack rails from partsexpress Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted April 1, 2005 Share Posted April 1, 2005 Many members who have done this have purchased a couple blank rack panels or vent panels and simply build to that width. SEARCH for topics regarding construction details, there have been several threads in the past year. Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAX616 Posted April 1, 2005 Share Posted April 1, 2005 I work for a company that builds custom racks for news vehicles etc. You will want to get "bud" mounting rails.Here is a company we use RS electronics. Lengths are 42'(pmr 9450), 52 1/2'(pmr9451), 61 1/4'(pmr 9452), 70'(pmr 9453) and 78.750" (pmr9454). Phone # (800) 258-3603.If you build a frame, the inside width should be about 19.2" to 19.250" depending on your precision. the rack unit is like previously said 1.750". with that inside width,the distance ctc between your threaded mounting holes is 18.329" You may need rear support for heavier items so get four rails. They are sold in packs of 2 for about $50.00 a set.be sure to leave some room @ the top and the bottom. Good Luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted April 1, 2005 Share Posted April 1, 2005 Here is a box I made for some of my gear. The inside width was exactly 19". I would go 1/8 to 1/4 over that on another one if doing again (I will at some point. I used Raxxess rails (I think), threaded 10/32. You can get rails that have larger holes and use a captive nut, that you then place in the position that you need. In some ways this is nice, because you can remove the nut if you strip the threads. Marvel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.