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Pull the trigger, yes or no!


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That and I would check the value of that big coil in the crossover network to see if it is the correct value for the Heresy.

I would second the idea to make a new backboard to replace the ported one. Scan the labels on the old backs with a scanner and print them on a full sheet label type material, cut and trim them and affix them to the new backs.

With a little tweaking they will be right again.

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Fzn, agreed, the crossover should be brought back to new specs. Does anyone have the proper schematic and values for the E crossover network? Any help will be appreciated!

I guess I could scan the labels and print them out. What would be the correct paper for this? I think I will leave the screws in the scans though, possibly keep the old backs just for proof.

I do like the way the old owner modded the face of the speakers though, the motor board is covered with vinyl or something and it looks good. I might even get the wife to agree to leave them alone.

9.gif9.gif

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I will try next time screwing a board over the ports to really seal them off. I will also need to glue toothpicks into the screw holes holding the back on as nearly all of them were stripped out. I will also seal the backs with some thin foam insulation.

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A cabinet with leaks in it will have far less bass, especially when it's ported. My latest subwoofer build can demonstrate this very well because the top lid can come off real easy. When first listening, we noticed that the lid was practically vibrating off so we of course hold it down and it gets way louder. I put in some test tones and it was uncanny how slightly opening the lid made the sound drop over 20dB. You could still here the distortion from the driver moving, but when you would close the lid back up, the distortion would get masked and you would hear the bass again. After a while we got tired of trying to hold it down so we put my mom on top while we played around with some other stuff 1.gif12.gif

Anyways, before going all out and changing everything at once, I would recommend fixing those stripped screws and test again...doing one step at a time. You might also consider installing some T-Nuts instead of the toothpick trick since you'll probably be doing a lot of taking off and putting back on.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=081-1075

(you'll probably just want to get these and purchase the screws at your local hardware store)

here's another link for those that have never seen this before:

260-778m.jpg

(clickable pic)

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