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KLF-20 with Titanium mids and highs


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I recently replaced the Polymer K-79 Diaphragm with the K-792-TI Titanium diaphragm, and the K-52 with the K-52TI Titanium diaphragm. After some break-in time the results were amazing, the midrange was alot smoother with less harshness and the highs are more solid, again with less harshness. Everything was more transparent and more revealing. The 20's seam more liner at higher volumes with less break-up as well. The total cost was only $151.00 for both speakers! The next project is to rebuild the cross-over for even more transparencey. 2.gif

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You did this or did somebody else do this? Hard to imagine the titanium being less shrill than a polymer? Wonder if this does anything to the frequency response? Dean, Bob, ALK, where are ya? The 52 uses the same diaphragm as the 57, I believe. Wonder if there are titaniums for the 55's?

BS

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Yes, these diaphrams are from klipsch, and yes I installed them myself. I find Titanium better because you can run titanium very hot compared to the polymer plastic which will get hot really fast and have more flex in the dome So the dome is more stiff and will stay more liner with the titanium. If you do this upgrade you will notice a bunch of dust and particals stuck to the polymer dome from the dome getting to hot and sticky. I listed the part #'s of the Titanium Diaphragms They replace the following diaphragms: for the tweet K-71-H,K-72-K,K-72-H,K-74-K, K-75-K, K-76-K, K-79-K, K-80-K, K-81-K, K-82-K, K-83-K. And for the mids K-53-K, K-57-K, K-52-K, K-58-K, K-59-K, K-52H-K, K-62-K, K-61-K. Also, I have noticed better fequency responce.1.gif

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I have posted about these for tweeters before. Haven't tried the titanium for any midranges. Here is how the titanum, poly and phenolic compare in a K-76 tweeter.

Bob Crites

tiphpl.jpg

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OK, I tried to upload a better trace to look at, but for some reason the forum won't let me upload anything tonight.

Anyway, the blue is the common soft poly dome, the red is phenolic and green is titanium. The poly (blue trace) drops off a lot just above 15 Khz. The titanium (green trace) continues on up to around 18 khz. The phenolic (red trace) is right there with the titanium, in fact going a bit higher before it drops off.

I would give a slight nod to the phenolic based on this test. Problem is the phenolic is no longer available. So the titanium beats the poly and those (poly and titanium) are the only ones you can buy as far as I know.

Now we could say it this way. If I had a diaphragm go bad in one of these tweeters, I would replace both with titanium. If I had phenolic to start with, I would keep using them and replace them with titanium once one had failed. If I had poly in these tweeters, I would replace it with titanium.

Bob Crites

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I just replaced three k-76-k's. (Same diaphragm as the k-79-k)

First removed the tweeter from the front of the motorboard (4 screws). You will need to tilt it out of the cut-out. Carefull not to stretch the wires before disconnecting them from the diaphragm. Mine were green wire positive, black negative.

Then removed the three nuts holding the horn to the motor assembly (magnet) Insure the motor assembly is clean of debris before placing the new diaphragm into it. BEC recommended dabbing the sticky part of a post it note into the magnet cavity. (dimple)

Then replaced the diaphram, (It's between the horn and magnet) tightened the horn back over the diaphragm and motor assembly.

I noticed the nuts holding these 3 sections together on all of the tweeters seemed quite loose to me.

I snugged them down upon re-installation. Not too tight though. Re-connected the wires and screwed it back into the front of the motorboard.

This was very simple. If I can do it...you certainly can too.

I am not sure if the k-52 installs like this one. Can't be all that different.

Hope this helped...........

Take care

Mike

(Just noticed after being a member since 1999, I am now a freak.....3.gif )

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