colterphoto1 Posted August 18, 2005 Share Posted August 18, 2005 When the Gold Cadillac from ] Bowling Green Kentucky pulls up, good things are gonna happen between Klipsch Brothers. Let it be known henceforth that BSBUTTON IS NO BUTCHER! These Heresies look like NEW! Beautiful dark Walnut veneer over el cheapo designer boxes. They were so bashed when he got them that Todd considered tossing the cabinets. He lovingly did a splendid job with the walnut veneer on these Heresies, and brought all the parts for a 'complete it yourself' Heresy kit. I'm just the guy for the job, doncha know? Don't think he posted, but he has a local shop who makes up large sheets of the veneer on paper backing, so most of the bookmatching (it's late, forgot the term), is done by pros at the shop. All the corners are beautious. And the router work his friend did on the openings is baby butt smooth. I'm thinking of leaving the 7-ply veneer show in the opening edges as a tribute to the cabinet builders. The other option would be to paint it black. See the thread about Heresy reveneering. The woofers were definitely faded, but are the old square magnet type, so I'll probably get them reconed locally unless BEC is set up to do K22's now. Atlas PD5VH mid drivers practically new iin boxes- supposedly the same as latest greatest K55 (or am I confused Got alnico K77's with these babies- nother bonus Original E type xovers look like NEW, I've never seen shinier cans on caps. Perhaps these were replaced at some time? His little daughter had lovingly packaged each type of screw from the cabinet in a labeled baggie. One said 'Woo Fers' just like that. And Todd, bless his heart, packed them in the slightly raised eggcrate foam (2 lb density, think he said) that can also serve as cabinet dampening material. Even handed me a baggie with two factory fresh Klipsch copper logo plates to affix after I rub on some more oil. What do ya think, should I keep up with the oiling, or Poly these babies? I like the softer, natural wood look of the oil myself. 4 coats or so should do it. Great guy, delivered em right to my doorstep. Even his workmate Mark put up with out Klipsch chat for about an hour. I'd have taken them to dinner but they were running a couple hours late and I had a meeting this evening-they did look a bit road weary. Sorry- I'll get ya next time. I think there's a couple pieces here in the garage that Todd has his eye on. Bring the truck next trip, okay? LOL Think they were going to try to get Cincy before turning in for night. Hope the trip goes okay for ya guys. THANKS! Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lwhaples Posted August 18, 2005 Share Posted August 18, 2005 Michael,Thanks for the read. Seems like all the fun stuff happens far away. Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael hurd Posted August 18, 2005 Share Posted August 18, 2005 Colter: definately do not try to put a polyurethane finish over an oil finish! Just give them a little more oil once in a while, when they look to be dry. Also, why recone the woofers when they are working fine but just faded? I'd just pop them out of the cabinets, and give them a coat of SEM vinyl dye in satin black, they would look like brand new for a fraction of the price and headache. Go to a bodyshop supply house ( maybe even pep boys ) and ask for a spraycan of vinyl / fabric dye. SEM is a brand name that I have utilized quite often, it is like a very thin lacquer, it dries by solvent evaporation, unlike an enamel paint which is slow drying. You want a satin finish black, rather than a gloss. If you can't find the vinyl dye in spraybombs, you could also use the SEM brand trim black, in satin. It is also a very thin lacquer type product. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted August 18, 2005 Share Posted August 18, 2005 I know of some on the Lansing Heritage forums who have used a product to go over the white JBL drivers (I think the trademark name is Aquaplas). It can turn quite yellow over time. Didn't add enough to the mass of the cone to change the compliance at all. Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-MAN Posted August 18, 2005 Share Posted August 18, 2005 Get some of the "Wet Look" cone 'paint' from Partsexpress. Wet look waterproofer DM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted August 18, 2005 Author Share Posted August 18, 2005 Thanks guys, I'll try it out first. Yes they work, just one got hit by a cat. You can tell by the telltale 'spray' spatter pattern followed by dribble down onto the surround accordian folds. Problem is that the paper is very thin just inside the surround. Perhaps I'll try the fingernail polish on the back side to stiffen that portion, then use the colorant to the face. Michael H- I would image that I'd want to mask off the accordian area first, then coat the cone body and dust cap with the black colorant, right? Best to do a dust or tack coat and then a full one, or does it soak in right away? You guys might have saved me $160, BobC says recone kits not readily available for K22, replacement K24E is like $80 ea. Not bad, but would rather not spend if I don't need to. Re the cabinet finish, Todd just put a couple coats of the 'salad bowl' finish oil on. Says it's a wipe on 'poly' type product, but sounds more like an oil. Can I just continue with Tung oil, or BLO or ??? I do prefer the oil finished over poly. Thanks, Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael hurd Posted August 18, 2005 Share Posted August 18, 2005 I'd shoot the entire cone, surround and dust cap, if it were me. If the paper is thin, not much you can do to help it out. I would talk to Todd before attempting to put any sort of finish over top of his work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-MAN Posted August 18, 2005 Share Posted August 18, 2005 ---------------- On 8/18/2005 2:23:04 PM michael hurd wrote: I'd shoot the entire cone, surround and dust cap, if it were me. If the paper is thin, not much you can do to help it out. I would talk to Todd before attempting to put any sort of finish over top of his work. ---------------- I second exactly what Mr. Hurd said. DM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BS Button Posted August 18, 2005 Share Posted August 18, 2005 Colter, I really appreciate all that you've said about this. I was leery of doing the project from the onset, but honestly thought that if you could see it with your own eyes, it would only be a matter of time before you'd get started on ur job with all those Cornwalls. Guys, Colter is truly an observant sort, as he didn't leave out any of this story. I know they've found a good home. I will return there, soon to pick up another pair of Cornwalls or those Scala's or those HK's or those whatever's. Sheesh, a virtual Klipsh Heritage museum. All, This woodworking shop recommended using anything from General Finishes. WWW.generalfinishes.com. Salad bowl finish is one of the easiest products to work with, according the wordworking shop in which it and the veneer was purchased. It is supposed to be an oil based product with a smattering of urethane, but who knows? Maybe the website will give you a clue. There is not much on there, just one coat, really. I'd sand ever so slightly, then apply some sort of BLO mixture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael hurd Posted August 18, 2005 Share Posted August 18, 2005 BS: Nice work on the cabinets! Colter: apply the SEM in multiple thin coats, the black satin is kind or transparent, but dries very quickly. You can apply 4-5 coats in less than 1/2 hour, and it should cover in 3-4 tops. I guarantee if you use this product, they will look like brand new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BS Button Posted August 18, 2005 Share Posted August 18, 2005 Michael Hurd (that is), What is this SEM you are talking about? Feel like Homer Simpson... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael hurd Posted August 18, 2005 Share Posted August 18, 2005 SEM is a brand name that offers bodyshop products and speciality coatings. http://www.sem.ws/about_us.php They have two products that I use quite often, the Trim Black ( paint for black rubber/plastic moldings ) and the vinyl dyes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted August 18, 2005 Author Share Posted August 18, 2005 Todd, go back up this thread. SEM is a vinyl spray that Michael H suggests can be used to bring color back to woofer cones without adversly affecting performance. I'm going to give it a try on these K22's. WIll post before and after photos so you guys can judge for yourselves. Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael hurd Posted August 18, 2005 Share Posted August 18, 2005 Michael Colter: SEM # 15243 satin black is the one you want, it is their "color-coat" for vinyl. Alternately, you can obtain just as good a result with SEM # 39143 trim black satin finish spray. Each of these aerosol cans are fairly expensive, being almost $ 20 cdn each here, I buy usually by the quart. You may however find that they are less $$ because they are made in the U.S. and not imported as they are here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted August 18, 2005 Author Share Posted August 18, 2005 I thank you sir! Michael And I corrected my original post here. Forum member Todd BSbutton is from Bowling Green Kentucky, the Bluegrass state. I did know that, he asked about my lawn when he was up here- a sure giveaway. NOT Tennessee. I'm embarassed. Apologies to him and Mark. Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted August 19, 2005 Author Share Posted August 19, 2005 I procured a spray can of the SEM 15243 Color Coat Satin Black Flexible Coating as recommended by Michael Hurd, henceforth known as Mr. Paint. Per SEM, this product 'changes or renews color on most flexible & rigid plastics, carpet, vinyl & velour'. Guess it works on speaker cones also. Was easy to locate as the SEM website had a locator. Local shop had in stock at a whopping price of $9.50 US. Not bad. I tried it out on a section of corrugated cardboard to check for soak-through and ability to color hide. One of the K22's was terribly faded, basically a light gray at this point. First a light mist coat, then two thin coats within 5 minutes each. This put a very dense, very black hard vinyl surface on the cardboard, so tough that fingernail scratching would not leave the faintest mark. Upon tearing the corrugated apart, I noted that the spray had indeed stayed on the surface, barely soaking into the surface. I considered this important because I didn't want to have to build up several layers on the woofer cones, possibly adding to their density. I took before photos of both speakers, wiped them clean with soft bristle brush and painted as above. Noticed a slight 'lifting' of woofer paper fibres, which I knocked down with soft cloth before final coat. They look LIKE NEW! Took after photos and we'll see how they sound when I get cabinets finished later this week. Thanks Mr. Paint. Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael hurd Posted August 19, 2005 Share Posted August 19, 2005 Glad that I could help! Not too bad a price, that spraycan would be almost $ 20 here in canadian funds. Certainly a lot less than $ 160 + tax & shipping. Just send the other $ 150 to me as a consultation fee.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BS Button Posted August 19, 2005 Share Posted August 19, 2005 You dogs! Let's see some pics Colter? Damn! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speedball Posted August 19, 2005 Share Posted August 19, 2005 Hey Colter, My 4.2 speaker fiish was original oil finish until about a few months ago. I accidently oiled them with too much oil and they became a sticky mess. Sooo, I put about 3 coats of polyurethane on them and sanded between coats. The finish is now perfect satin...not glossy poly and I'm happy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted August 19, 2005 Author Share Posted August 19, 2005 Final exterior coats on the walnut will be Satin Arm-R-seal, a urethane and oil topcoat, designed to be wiped on. Provides a tough durable finish. It's also made by General Finishes, same manufacturer as the Salad Bowl finish, and the finishes are compatible. Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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