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Need Help..Forte Problems???


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Forte's are not fused. Something like you are describing is usually preceeding by another event -- ear-bleeding volume settings on the amp, a wild hockey puck, a change in a setting in some piece of electronics, etc...

It seems odd to lose the bass in both speakers at the same time.

Can you tell us more about the circumstances leading up the bass' demise, like what equipment is connected, what you may have changed, if you left any jealous Bose owners alone in the room..Smile.gif



Denon AVR-3300

Acurus A200x3

NAD 7155 Receiver

Pioneer PD-F19 CD Changer

Sony CDP-C8ESD CD Changer

Denon 3000 DVD

Toshiba M784 VCR

B&O Beogram 1800 TT

Klipsch Chorus

Klipsch KV-3 Center

Klipsch SS-1 Surround

Klipsch KG4

Klipsch KG3

Klipsch Forte (2pr)

Velodyne CT120 Sub

Sony KP-43T75 RPTV

Monster HTS2000

AudioQuest Copperhead Interconnects

AudioQuest Slate Speaker Wire

Various other interconnects/cables

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It is difficult to trouble shoot from a distance.

This seems critical to say so, but, in all kindness, did this happen all of sudden without abuse? Not to say that you did this, maybe there are other listeners in the household cranking them.

It would be odd that both woofers spontaneously had an oddball failure. Playing CD with infra sounic effects could have burned out the windings. Same with some hard core rock or organ.

Some smart cookies with knowledge of the cross over design might be able to comment on the following. My technical assumptions may be flawed.

I think you can test for woofer winding (voice coil failure) without taking the speakers apart.

If you buy a Radio Shack multimeter (or any other manufacturer) it will have a continuity test. Basically, when the meter is set to continuity, touching the probes together will cause the meter to give a tone.

Disconnect the feed lines to the speakers. Touch the probes of the meter to the input to the speakers, the banana females, or whatever is there. If the woofers are good, you should get a tone. If no tone, the woofer is burned out.

My reasoning is that with most crossover designs, there is a d.c. path to the woofer and not to the midrange and tweeter. And this is a good test without taking it apart.

If you want to get more precise you're going to have to take the speakers apart to run the same test at the terminals of the woofers.

Other possible failure modes: If the speakers are wired out of phase, the bass will suffer. There is a remote possibilty that there is foreign matter jamming the woofer. If you push on the woofer it should give a bit and not bind.

Give us some more info.


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