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Active Crossovers - Ashley or Rane?


tigerwoodKhorns

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I am using the dbx 234 instead of the sub's crossover which to my ears

is an improvement. A friend of mine started with a Behringer unit,

preferred the dbx (a tad more transparent and quiet) but ultimately

settled on a more costly unit (but I forgot which brand).

Wolfram

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Is a good quality digital crossover

superior to a pro analog unit like the Rane or Ashley units described

above?

I think so. If you're going to be putting the money into such a unit,

you might as well go all out and get the extra features available with

only the digital units (*cough* time-delay *cough*) [;)]

Btw, Roy Delgado uses something from EV for his home system (which is also what he used for the demo in Hope).

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The DCX2496 works well for me. But to optimally use it you need to feed

it a fairly strong signal to maximize its A/D and D/A performance.

When you do that it puts out a strong signal on the output which is way

to high for most amplifiers. You don't want to turn down the signal

much using the internal controls in the Behringer... that reduces the

D/As resolution. So instead you need to add some attenuation between

the unit and the amps. The attenuation also attenuates any noise from

the Behringer, and the rest of the components ahead of it, too.

In my setup I have basically zero noise from anything ahead of the amps.

If you don't do this the Behringer may add noise to the system and you

will only be using a few bits of its resolution so it could easily

effect the signal passing through it.

With any digital crossover for maximum performance you need to maximize the signal to/from the A/D and D/A without clipping it.

Shawn

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I read some old posts and Griffinator strongly reccomended the Yamaha D2040 digital crossover over the Behringer. I was going back and foth between the Ashley XR2001 (pretty impressive piece of equipment) and teh Yamaha and decided to pull teh trigger on the Yamaha (uh - used, new ones are going for $3,000). The Yamaha is digital and appears to be more of a high end piece. It operates at 48kHz (unlike the behringer that operates at 192) but hey, my Lexus and my Ford Ranger both have 4.0 liter engines but guess which one I drive every day - specs aren't everything.

So Griffinator, do you now forgive me for using a Behringer 2496 EQ?

Now I have soem questions:

I will be using a Khorn bass bin (speakerlab) with an 8 ohm driver. I'm going to drive it with my QSC 1202 (pretty much a dead quiet and transparent powerhouse in a khorn - class ab and digitally controlled and only $600 - highly reccomended)

Tweeters are JBL 2404 baby cheeks at 8 ohms.

Midrage will be JBL 2470's with 16 ohm phenolic diaphrgams and Altec 511b's..

I want to use the four channels on my Teac L700 to drive the midrage and tweeters (30 wpc at 6 ohms)

I am also going to use a SW15 off of the Yamaha (It is a 4 way divider and can run any channel at full range).

My questionm is teh JBL2470 16 ohm mid driver. I can put a 16 ohm resistor in parallel with it to achieve 8 ohms, but isn't the "extra power" that I will gain just going to go toward heating the resistor up?

This may become a major issue in the future because I eventually would like to use a SET 300b amp for the midrange (from 400 hz to about 5500 or 6000 hz) to get that sweet midrange and still have the crisp clear highs of the digital amp on the tweeters and the slam of the QSC on the bass bin (plus the sw15 of course).

If the resistor will just eat up power, I may wind up needing a powerful SET amp for the midrange.

Please help.

Thanks,

Chris

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