efzauner Posted January 9, 2006 Share Posted January 9, 2006 Tell you a story Formica. I know its history, but the first thing I did when I purchased the store was to upgrade the plain white ceilling painted sheetrock screen with a $3000 wholesale price motorized, tab tensioned screen from Draper. (http://www.draperinc.com/Screen_Pages/SilhouetteV_projection_screen.htm in M1300 surface) We all gathered in the HT room, turned out the lights and pressed the switch, holding our breath in order to release a big WOW when the new screen came down to cover the elcheapo painted sheetrock... Well what a letdown. That was the worst investement I ever made. If you raised the screen half way, so that the bottom half of the movie was on white paint, and the top half was on $3000 screen. You COULD NOT TELL A DIFFERENCE! We used a InFocus 7200 projector ($7K If I remember right)... I complained to the Draper rep, and he totally agreed with me. With today's high contrast, high output projectors, the screen becomes less and less important. IMHO. The setup is still there, if you want to see it. My idea is to use a top quality high thread count white cotton/polyester bed sheet and stretch it on a frame...and put the center channel behind it. Can't be less sound transparent that speaker grill cloth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
formica Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 IMO, if you are considering an AE700 or Z3, then you probably do not need a light grey or grey. That's what I was wondering... and I will have very good light control. You might also give the new AE900 and Z4 a look. Only a couple of hundred bucks more and they do have visible and ease of use improvements over the "older" 700 and Z3 models. I actually started by looking at those, but they were new on the market (back then) and fetching a price premium (± 800$). The Z3, being the least popular of the bunch, is now selling for about 1300$. I'm waiting till I'm ready to use it before buying... figuring the prices can only come down on all four of those models, as newer and better things get released. the first thing I did when I purchased the store was to upgrade the plain white ceilling painted sheetrock screen with a $3000 wholesale price motorized, tab tensioned screen from Draper. We all gathered in the HT room, turned out the lights and pressed the switch, holding our breath in order to release a big WOW when the new screen came down to cover the elcheapo painted sheetrock... Well what a letdown. I initially wanted to integrate my front screen into that wall's moulding layout... but all these questions on what I'd consider as a good compromise has me rethinking it. Perhaps I should put that purchase off I can see a way that I can leave the top section of my wall unfinished (white paint and no mouldings) in order to get used to my projector before looking into a screen. If I'm happy with just a white board... I'll put the money elsewhere. BTW, my front wall was already designed to accept a 30" tall centre fits directly below the screen... so I won't go the transparent screen this time around. Thanks guys... ROb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m00n Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 Just curious to which version are you guys using of the Goo system; white, light grey, or grey? Unfortunately not many of us get to experiment with screens much before we buy, so it's great to read from those who have. I just told them what projector I had, and gave them a few parameters about my projector, they then told me what i needed and sent it to me. Been very happy with the results. The color is a light gray but I'm not sure if that's the official name. I can get you the actual top and base coat names if you want. I still have a little left that I'm saving in the event I have to fix my screen due to any unforseen accidents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phaedrus Posted February 17, 2006 Share Posted February 17, 2006 Hello, I have just finished my Goo screen as well. Did you have the glass-bead effect on bright scenes? It's distracting but I was told it would go away. I don't know where it would go. It also has a very tiny crater-like effect to the paint. Inside these tniy craters are what appears to tiny flakes of glass. Help?? Also....did you have any paint roller overlap bands? Thanks.. Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m00n Posted February 17, 2006 Share Posted February 17, 2006 I'm not sure what the glass bead effect is. I must not have had that issue. Never had any overlap problems either. What kind of material did you paint on? Did you apply a bottom coat before applying the top coat? Was the surface you painted on clean? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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