Refreshed E-2 picts anyone?

[Kriton]

Hey,

I am looking for some pictures of an E-2 crossover that has been refreshed with new caps...

What I am trying to do is get a look at how you all replaced the 2uf

caps, and how you connected the caps to the dividing rail, did you put

connectors on the ends of the caps in order to connect the wires to the

screw downs, or clip the wires to the old caps, glue the new caps down

and twist the hot oint the wires togther?

A picture would be worth a thousand words here...thanks!

K

[BEC]

Don't have a picture of an E-2, but here is the way I do an E.

Bob Crites

[Kriton]

Bob,

Thanks for the pict! Problem is you point out my dilemma.

You use those cans with the blade connectors, and if you crimp on the

female blade end, they just connect cleanly and there is no problem.

What do you do if you are using regular caps, say the Dayton metallized

poly caps with the wire ends? Can you do a hot joint to the red

wires and then heat shrink a wrap, or is that overkill?

Those square caps that were screwed into the original boards had those

bladed ends on them too. Makes sense, much cleaner, are the

connections as good or better than soldered?

Why are those 2uf caps in a can so much bigger than Dayton or Solen of the same uf Bob? Are they film and foil or what?

Thanks,

K

EDIT: Hey Bob, was there no cap in the woofer circuit on those E crossovers?

[3dzapper]

I desoldered the old terminals for reuse.

[BEC]

Kriton,

No woofer cap on the E. That is the difference between the E and E-2.

The GE caps I use are bigger because they are made for industrial usage. They run very hot in their motor run function and need a large area and oil inside to dissipate heat.

You could either glue down the Dayton or Solen caps or use a tie-wrap with a screw mount to secure them. I use the screw and tie wrap method when I use that type of cap. You can solder and shrink wrap an additional length of wire to those caps.

Bob

[Kriton]

Cool, thanks Bob, that is a great idea. I can get those screw

down zips at PartsExpress? Damn those people make a bundle off

me...

3D, did you do a bypass, or is that yellow cap looking thing under the

AudioCaps just a block to get the AC's up in the air to reach the

block? You desoldered the connectors, you are talking about the

ringed connectors on the blocks soldered to the original wires?

Could you tell me about your configuration here, assuming that yellow

thing underneath the AC's is another cap, I have to assume you bypassed

or paralelled a couple of those things?

Sorry for the stupid questions, I just am curious, and as these crossovers seem simple to refresh I would like to try it...

Thanks again yall.

K

[3dzapper]

The big yellow cap is a 30uF poly and it is parralled by the smaller 3uF poly to replace the 33uF non-polarized electrolytic that was original (small round black can on the top network.)

Yes the horse shoe ends that were originally on the terminal strip were reused. I'm cheap!!![:$]

There are no stupid questions, just stupid people because they did not ask enough of them.

After this picture was taken I slid the 2uF cap on the right over and strapped and glued them together and to the board.

Rick

[Dflip]

Other options for mounting include the following from Parts Express:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=080-512 $2.45/10

or

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=080-515 $1.60/10

Either self-adhesive backing tape or screws can be used to hold in place.

[Kriton]

DFlip, thanks for the suggestion, I would never have thought of that,

and with all of the stuff that partsexpress has, I just don't think I

would have ever found those options.

3D and Bob, I am going to assume that it is a good thing to keep all of

the caps the same brand, if you are going to be doing a crossover

refresh like this? 3D, that large 30 uf yellow cap isn't an

Audiocap is it? If you had an alternative, like say Solen, who

have all of the proper values in single caps, would that be better?

Also, explain to me the cap "bypass" I have read so much about,

essentially bypassing a lesser quality cap with a very good cap, what

is the point? Why not just buy the better quality cap in the

exact value you need? IS there something to be said for placing a

very small value faster cap in front and behind (bypassing) to assist in dissipation/discharge? Or is

there a distinct benefit in say havling a desired value and using two

caps to increase speed of discharge? Oh, lastly what do the

various voltage ratings mean on these caps? The stock caps on the

E-2 had voltage ratings of 100 and 250 volts I think - why is this

important - and what is the benefit (disadvantage) of a capacitor that

has a higher voltage (like 400 volts as I have seen)??

Oh, and if you can't tell, I have read everything I can get my hands

on, short of order a book on designing speakers, which I really don't

want to do (designing speakers that is)...so that is why I have all the questions...

Thanks,

K

[3dzapper]

There is no need to go all out on that 33uF bass cap. It is a blocking cap more than a pass through. Use most of your money on the HF and Mids. Daytons would be fine in the bass cap PPT Thetasare great for the others..

100VDC and up are good for xovers. The higher voltages are perfectly OK too but the higher voltage will never be seen in a loudspeaker. The original black box caps were designed for 110VAC motor run applications.

I've read both pro's and con's about bypassing myself. The E-2 network is so simple with easy to find cap values. I would not worry about bypassing myself.

Rick