Moderators dtel Posted May 25, 2006 Moderators Share Posted May 25, 2006 This might be a crazy idea but, could i just use a piece of wood that would cover the two horns plus a few extra inches and cut out new holes that would let the horns be turned so the speaker could lay down. And just glue the new wood over the old holes so the back of the horns would pass thru the old holes without cuting the motherboard and with any luck clear the grill. [ hard to explain] Mounting horns on a new piece of wood over the original holes so it could be changed back later if needed. Hope it makes a little sense, i can picture it in my head but can't explain to well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerohm Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 This will give you an idea how I approached the problem with a Quartet ... may even give you some other ideas to think about ... http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/jerohm/lst?.dir=/Klipsch/QuartetWO/Custom+Center&.order=&.view=l&.src=bc&.done=http%3a//briefcase.yahoo.com/ . The local cabinet maker did the work @ $130/motor board. The 'frame' is rock maple and probably only reversable @ another $130 a pop. ( I tried for a while positioning with the tweeter on the bottom. I have since positioned it back on the top. I am also using the original K-10 again ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators dtel Posted May 25, 2006 Author Moderators Share Posted May 25, 2006 That's a good idea but how hard is it to remove the original motherboard ,thats what i was concerned about. Did you remove it or did the cabinet maker remove it. I do some woodworking so a new motherboard is not a problem. But sometimes with wood that is glued together it has to be broken apart and never comes apart clean, or where you would want it to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnyholiday Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 Imagine if you will a lazy susan that rotates with fastner points spaced for set degrees of rotation Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators dtel Posted May 25, 2006 Author Moderators Share Posted May 25, 2006 Almost forgot, after looking at your pic's i must turn the horns,It has to sound better like that. Nice job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators dtel Posted May 25, 2006 Author Moderators Share Posted May 25, 2006 Imagine if you will a lazy susan that rotates with fastner points spaced for set degrees of rotation Another good idea, that looks like it might be easier if i can cut and route the original motherboard without removing it. Then just route another circle to fill,and mount horns in it. The worse case if i mess up is i would have to remove the mb and replace with a new one with circle already cut. I like the circle idea because you could change back with just a few bolts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerohm Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 That's a good idea but how hard is it to remove the original motherboard ,thats what i was concerned about. Did you remove it or did the cabinet maker remove it. I did, and it was an absolute pain in the *** ... which is why I ended up cutting it out with a rotary (type) saw. The original motor board sits in a channel cut into each side of the cabinet walls. It also has ~3/4" square braces that fame right behind it. The motor board is glued in the channel and glued/stapled to these frame braces (and the cabinet sides). Cutting out the original and creating a new motor board (from it) that attached as a 'cap' proved to be the most practical solution. Since the horns flush mount from the front, creating new horn holes is not exactly trivial (for me anyway). The original motor board is no-void high quality plywood, so creating a strong frame wasn't really an issue (for the cabinet maker anyway). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerohm Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 That is truly an elegant solution! Nice job ... but as I sit a look at a Forte II, I don't think the spacing will allow however. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators dtel Posted May 25, 2006 Author Moderators Share Posted May 25, 2006 That's a good idea but how hard is it to remove the original motherboard ,thats what i was concerned about. Did you remove it or did the cabinet maker remove it. I did, and it was an absolute pain in the *** ... which is why I ended up cutting it out with a rotary (type) saw. The original motor board sits is a channel cut into each side of the cabinet walls. It also has ~3/4" square braces that fame right behind it. The motor board is glued in the channel and glued/stapled to these frame braces (and the cabinet sides). Cutting out the original and creating a new motor board (from it) that attached as a 'cap' proved to be the most practical solution. Since the horns flush mount from the front, creating new horn holes is not exactly trivial (for me anyway). The original motor board is no-void high quality plywood, so creating a strong frame wasn't really an issue (for the cabinet maker anyway). Ok i see what you are talking about , i diden't catch it the first time. After looking back at the pictures i see. Avoiding the channel and bracing and glue would be much better. Thanks all for the ideas, it looks like it would be worth turning the horns. The room is 24' wide and 18' deep and the center and rears cover a wide area 24' so turning the horns would help more than if the room was skinny, it seem's so .Sounds like it makes sense anyway! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators dtel Posted May 25, 2006 Author Moderators Share Posted May 25, 2006 Jerohm, after looking at your pics is that speaker mounted like that in your living/family room? Just asking because i have the rear Forte ll's mounted like that and everyone that has seen the livingroom looks at them [ how can you miss them ] . No one has made a comment but i know that they think i must be nuts, We should be trying to hide speakers if you watch commercials, I figure if my wife don't complain the rest of the opinions don't count. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerohm Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 It is MY living room; I AM divorced ( big surprise huh? - for the moment), and it IS pretty much the general consensus that I AM CRAZY. I went through a KM-C, KLF-C7, Academy, unmodified Quartet on it side, and finally what you see. For the first year, my biggest concern was it falling off the wall and crushing the Mitsubishi. It is NOT shielded, but it doesn't seem to affect my TV. Not much to look at maybe (although there is a grill that I could attach [] ), but my system sounds amazing (to me anyway). It IS worth the effort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrWho Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 One other thing you might consider would be to build an entirely new cabinet - remove all the parts from the old speaker and then store the old cabinet in ase you ever change your mind. This way there will be absolutely no risk of damage to the original speaker. It also opens up the option of moving the passive radiator to the front of the motorboard - just make sure you keep the internal cabinet volume about the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators dtel Posted May 25, 2006 Author Moderators Share Posted May 25, 2006 DrWho i would love to do that if i could change the shape to fit in the upper corner of a rear wall but that pr makes it not work. Something like a small Khorn sideways at the roof. I even thought of building smaller boxes with just the two horns and 10'' bass or something because i don't really need the bass from the rears . But if i change it around too much i would mess up the sound and return drivers back to the big boxes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators dtel Posted May 25, 2006 Author Moderators Share Posted May 25, 2006 When you say move the pr to the front, do you mean make the box longer but smaller in other ways to keep the same volume. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrWho Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 When you say move the pr to the front, do you mean make the box longer but smaller in other ways to keep the same volume. yes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
popbumper Posted May 26, 2006 Share Posted May 26, 2006 Hey guys: I just picked up a Forte I for a center channel, and I am going to create a custom center cabinet, just as you said, moving the passive radiator to the front, and placing the horns in between the woofer/passive. I will have this done in a few weeks, stay tuned for progress and pics. Nice job on the Quartet! Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators dtel Posted May 26, 2006 Author Moderators Share Posted May 26, 2006 Ok now i have at least 3 choices, thanks and i would like to see that custom center channel. If that works out for you it may be what i could use for rear channels also. Something longer without the pr in the rear would fit better for my rear channels. Where my center channel goes the Forte ll fits but would/may look better like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrWho Posted May 26, 2006 Share Posted May 26, 2006 to throw in yet another option...you could also always move to a ported design as it would make the motorboard even smaller yet (the overall volume would be the same though). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
popbumper Posted May 26, 2006 Share Posted May 26, 2006 .....though one would need specs for the woofer (Vas and all that other good stuff) to create a ported design. Any way Klipsch still has this info, or would one have to "measure" a loose woofer to gain these criteria? Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrWho Posted May 26, 2006 Share Posted May 26, 2006 Well the cabinet was already made - so it's just a matter of reverse engineering and installing a port close to the tuning point of the PR. And if you end up off by a few Hz on the tuning it's not a huge deal because the difference is maybe 1dB either way. All you'd need is a test tone CD...blast away and find the frequency where the active driver is barely moving and the PR is bouncing all crazy style...this is the tuning frequency. Then you need to measure the actual internal volume of the cabinet (so subtract volume displaced by the drivers and horns and all that) and then you just plug numbers into WinISD. And if you're really worried about getting it perfect you can go with variable length ports and put the new cabinet side by side with the old stock cabinet and adjust the port length until they both sound identical. There's a lot of room for fudging your way into a good design. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.