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sfogg (Shawn) - A few questions about the Behringer DCX2496 please...


chops

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Hi Shawn,

In the near future, I'm going to be buying a DCX2496 so I can bi-amp my system and get steeper crossover points and a lot more flexability, and better sound quality. As it stands for now, I'll be using my father's old Technics SU-8099 amp to power the K-33s (115 watts per channel) and I have a Crown D-75A on the way to power the 902s (35 watts per channel).

In one of your older threads http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/1/657888/ShowThread.aspx , I see mention of elliptic filters at rates of beyond -200dB per octave, sometimes even more I think.

Anyway, I was wondering if you could tell me a few things about the DCX2496, such as sound quality, how quiet it is, the various EQ settings per output and how you're doing these elliptic filters with it.

Any info you could share will be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance,

Charles

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When you optimize the in/output levels on the DCX2496 pretty much by default you are going to have to have input attenuation to your amps. If you amps have input level controls that makes it really easy. Otherwise you can do like I did and just use a couple of resistors as a voltage divider. That attenuation also attenuates any noise from the DCX2496 itself too. In my setup (quiet room) they are dead silent.

I did have a noise issue but that was in the amps themselves. They had some hiss which is more audible when you bi/tri-amp compared to going through passives.

See:

http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/thread/652637.aspx

Depending upon how quiet your room is that sort of thing may or may not be a problem.

BTW, make sure whatever amp you use on the Altec's doesn't have turn on/off transients. When you bi/tri-amp if the amp spits out DC at on/off it will go directly to the driver it is connected to. With a passive crossover the DC would go to the woofer alone which isn't a big deal.

For info on the steep slopes in the DCX see:

http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/thread/593771.aspx

You are going to run two way correct? You will be fine doing that with steep slopes in the Behringer. If you tried to do three way and stayed as steep as I did on the woofer/squawker you might not have enough DSP left for elliptic on the tweeter crossover...esp. if you use any of the parametrics to deal with other peaks in the response. That was what I ran into so I ended up using a Behringer per speaker so that I had plenty of DSP available. One of these days I'm going to use that (and the additional in/outputs) for some other functions with my subs and such. Just haven't been in the mood to screw with that.

Shawn

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Hi Shawn,

Thanks for the input!

The amp I plan on running on the Altec drivers is a Crown D-75A. On their site in the "Datasheet", it says...

Turn-on: Minimum thumps. Power-on is instantaneous with no program delay.

Do I assume that that means there is no relay switch on the outputs? If so, I guess I wouldn't be able to use this amp on the Altecs? That's going to suck if that's the case.

I have read something about possibly using capacitors or relays to resolve these blasted thump issues. Any thoughts on that?

As for the crossover slopes, I'll probably just use it at -48dB. I plan on running all three front speakers off of this one crossover if I can. Maybe later on, I'll play around with getting to higher rate slopes.

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"I have read something about possibly using capacitors or relays to resolve these blasted thump issues. Any thoughts on that?"

Relay switched outputs are the best (that is what the Teacs I'm using do) but if you have to you can add a capacitor inline with the amp to the Altec and it will block the DC. Of course one of the nice things about bi/tri-amping is getting rid of the capacitors and coils between the amps and the drivers....

"I'll probably just use it at -48dB. I plan on running all three front speakers off of this one crossover if I can. "

Pretty sure it will have plenty of DSP for (3) two way speakers at eighth order crossovers. You can certainly configure it for that type of setup.

BTW, one thing to be aware with on the DCX2496s. Sometimes a unit can get a little bit of a sizzling sound to it. That is apparently caused from loose connections on an internal ribbon cable. To fix it basically you take the top off, remove the ribbon cable, ever so slightly bend the pins the cable plugs into and plug the cable back in. One of my units started doing this and I did the above and it seemed to help so I did the same thing with the others just in case.

Shawn

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Charles,

Good luck on your project. I will be attempting something similar.

Unless you already have the DCX2496, you may have problems finding one. They have been out of production. The due date for the new ones keeps sliding, although vendors are taking orders. There was some issue about the availability of one of the components. Lots of talk, but none are in stock.

Good Luck,

-Tom

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Hey Chops, we'll be brothers then- I have an older Rane 23B from my PA rack that I'm going to use on my LSI's. I'm going three way with Subs/Bass/MidHighs. That should cover the back yard okay!

I think you'll appreciate the low noise of the Rane unit.

Michael

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Hey Chops, we'll be brothers then- I have an older Rane 23B from my PA rack that I'm going to use on my LSI's. I'm going three way with Subs/Bass/MidHighs. That should cover the back yard okay!

I think you'll appreciate the low noise of the Rane unit.

Michael

Hi Michael,

Yeah, I saw that you're getting ready to sell some PA gear and that you're wanting to tri-amp your LSI splits. And I always wanted to buy a Rane but could never afford one before. I also plan on buying a Rane Balance Buddy BB 22. That way, I can take the unbalanced -10dBV output of my Pioneer Elite receiver and convert it over to +4dBV balanced which they say guarantees noise/hum free operation with proper grounding.

Also, a friendly word of advice... If you haven't used that Crown DC-300A in a while, you may want to have it checked out before using it. I have been reading quite a bit over on the Crown forum and see that there are many of the older DC-300A's developing uncontrollable buzzes and hums due to some of the caps falling out of spec from over the years. Pretty much the same thing that happens to the Klipsch Heritage networks.

Just thought I'd give you a heads-up! [;)]

Charles

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Any thoughts/comments how the above named actives, compare with the Electro Voice Dx38?

This happened to be the one on the rack at Klipsch. (unless they had several and this is the only one I noticed... it's also the one Roy mentioned)

http://www.electrovoice.com/documents/Dx38_Brochure.pdf

Honestly, I have no clue, but I'm willing to bet the EV is a much better unit over the Behringer. I'm not saying the Behringer is bad, but I have heard that there are plenty of improvements to be made on/in it.

Not to mention that the EV is roughly $1k more than the Behringer!

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"EV is a much better unit over the Behringer"

I don't think so.

I don't have the EV, but the same basic piece was sold under other brand names with a different faceplate. It doesn't have enough outputs for triamp stereo, and needs even more TLC than the Behringer to sound good.

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