damonrpayne Posted November 2, 2006 Share Posted November 2, 2006 I just did some finishing work using wood lacquer. Its very nice but I have a place where the lacquer "ran" a bit and I didn't notice right away. I seem to recall there being some trick to smoothing out lacquer to perfection after the last coat dries? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted November 2, 2006 Share Posted November 2, 2006 One way: If you have not "final finishing sanded" with say, 600 grit; you can use 240 or 320 with an orbital and slowly but surely bring it back down, but you will need to do another 400 grit and if you are using a sprayer, shoot another coat. Otherwise, you can thin the laquer with say, 10% laquer thinner, and re-apply. The "smoothing out to perfection" will be 600, 800, and if you can find them, 1200 grit pads. For shooting with a gun, the actual problem is usually traced to the line pressure from the compressor, the nozzle size, and the type of gun used. See if you can find a "HVLP" high volume, low pressure gun, like a DeVilbiss FL-3 finishing gun and use a 1.3 mm nozzle; shoot some laquer thinner through it first (about a 1/2 ounce) on a scrap piece of plywood to make sure the pattern is ok, then fill the cup and go for it. Check the compressor settings and make sure they are set to the gun requirements; and make sure you drain the compressor tank before a new shooting by opening the bottom drain cock valve to make sure any moisture is out. Also, see if you can find a "dryer" fitting for your compressor to keep any moisture out. Water can cause (and will with laquer) "clumps" and the resultant "runs". If you can, try to shoot with the object "horizontal" to minimize clumps and runs. Check with someone at an autobody shop that you trust, and see if they will shoot the final coat for you. It may cost you half a case of Sam Adams, etc., but they do it all the time. Hope that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
damonrpayne Posted November 2, 2006 Author Share Posted November 2, 2006 Sadly I am using a brush. I will see how high a grit pad I can dig up, thanks for the advice. Note to self: buy a sprayer for future projects that a bound to happen. Does anyone know if a typical paint sprayer will work for lacquer too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted November 2, 2006 Share Posted November 2, 2006 Do you have, or can you borrow an random orbital sander? If so, go to www.onlineindustrialsupply.com for some pads. If not, these sanders are not that expensive; I use a DeWalt DW 26451, which takes the "velcro" or "hook and pile" pads. It's a neat tool, and right after I got it, my wife gave me "the look", so I ended up doing my son's dresser cabinet and other stuff on the WAF list before even getting close to the Heresy's. Home Depot, Lowes, etc' has them fairly cheap, Good source also for the tools is www.maxtools.com . Theyve been of immense assistance to me on my "projects". On the sprayers.... For speaker cabinets (unless it's a godzilla...), check out DeVilbiss "finishing" guns, they are high end but will last you forever (all metal construction); and it was the best couple of bills I ever spent. I've used it for just about everything that otherwise I'd end up buying spray cans and doing a crappy job. It's sorta like audiophile stereo equipment though, once you get the gun, you gotta have a good compressor, gotta have the spare nozzles for the latex to paint the bedroom walls to make the WAF level ok, etc., etc., and it just goes downhill from there. Oh well, a good table saw capable of accurately and reliably doing furniture grade wood (speakers??) can cost as much as a Juicy Music Blueberry Extreme... Hope that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PrestonTom Posted November 2, 2006 Share Posted November 2, 2006 I would suggest doing the above, but without an orbital sander - do it by hand with a sanding block (carefully) . If it is just a few spots, then it should not be too bad. Unless you are used to using a orbital sander etc, it is too easy to get agressive and go overboard. -Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
popbumper Posted November 2, 2006 Share Posted November 2, 2006 Lacquer is probably one of the most forgiving paints - because it dries quickly and is easily sanded. After drying 24 hours, knock down with a sanding block, and be sure to scuff the ENTIRE surface with 180 grit before applying the next coat - it allows the paint to "grab". YES, you CAN use any commercial sprayer with it, and here the REAL magic of lacquer comes through - it FLOWS with great ease and rarely spits/runs/clogs unless you keep it at a spot for too long. Sadly, lacquer is going the way of the dinosaur as the EPA clamps down, because it is FULL of volatile organic chemicals - that taint the atmosphere. It's also not exactly a great thing to breathe.... Good luck! Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 Lacquer is probably one of the most forgiving paints - because it dries quickly and is easily sanded. After drying 24 hours, knock down with a sanding block, and be sure to scuff the ENTIRE surface with 180 grit before applying the next coat - it allows the paint to "grab". YES, you CAN use any commercial sprayer with it, and here the REAL magic of lacquer comes through - it FLOWS with great ease and rarely spits/runs/clogs unless you keep it at a spot for too long. Absolutely agree with Chris (Popbumper) on laquer being forgiving (I know from experience...); and when doing it by hand with a block, 180 is relatively fast and accurate. When I use an orbital, I'm just less "aggressive", thus the 200+ grit. Key thing though, as Chris said, is you must do the entire surface. We have serious humidity issues here in the "swamps", so we have to be very careful about water/clumping, etc. General suggestion for folks starting to spray: keep the lids on cans, only put as much in the cup that you will use; and clean up the spray gun very well after using. Chris also brings up a very good point for the DIY when starting to spray stuff. Folks new to spraying should practice with the gun they will use on a piece of scrap plywood to get the hang of it. Chris: Thanks for the helpful advice to him (and for all of us)! Your work is absolutely first rate!; On the Heresy project, Bob Crites posted a photo of the Corwall's that you did for him,. Eventually I hope I can learn how to do that! Amazing work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duke Spinner Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 Auto Body stores sell a "Nib" file.. looks like a postage stamp sized thing ... shaves the run off, then re-flow ifn' ya got really humid weather, you need Lacquer Retarder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 ifn' ya got really humid weather, you need Lacquer Retarder M'already retarded[], oh, yes, the laquer stuff, Yup, use that too.... Right now, humidity outside the building is 92%, and it's not raining.... And I've got to do a transom repair on one of our rescue boats. Oh well... Gotta wait until next week until it gets down below 80%. It's really bad down here sometimes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duke Spinner Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 if your spraying, any of the newer 2 part paints cures well in humid weathr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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