Speaker Wire Help

[chitown2477]

This weekend I will be replacing the speaker wires for my home theater system. The main reason is due to some being spliced as I ran out of speaker wire previously and some of the wire being lower gauge (12 gauge). Please let me know what you think of the following questions. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />

Does the speaker wire length have to be the same for each set of speakers? For example, should the speaker wire for the L/R fronts be about 10 each. I have heard this can influence evenness of sound which does not seem to make much sense given how fast the sound travels.

The speaker wire runs will be about 30 feet for the L/R surrounds and 45 for the rear channel (they are mounted on the wall and I also run along the base of wall). I will use 14 gauge wire is this reasonable to provide clear sound but not create undue resistance?

Since my L/R fronts are about 10 each, should I use a lower gauge wire or will 14 gauge make a huge difference?

Any preferences for speaker wire? I really would like to use something cheaper than Monster but also fo good technical quality, e.g. something from Radio Shack or Acoustic Research.

Thanks,

[Guest " "]

This weekend I will be replacing the speaker wires for my home theater system. The main reason is due to some being spliced as I ran out of speaker wire previously and some of the wire being lower gauge (12 gauge). Please let me know what you think of the following questions.

 

Does the speaker wire length have to be the same for each set of speakers? For example, should the speaker wire for the L/R fronts be about 10 each. I have heard this can influence evenness of sound which does not seem to make much sense given how fast the sound travels.

The speaker wire runs will be about 30 feet for the L/R surrounds and 45 for the rear channel (they are mounted on the wall and I also run along the base of wall). I will use 14 gauge wire is this reasonable to provide clear sound but not create undue resistance?

Since my L/R fronts are about 10 each, should I use a lower gauge wire or will 14 gauge make a huge difference?

Any preferences for speaker wire? I really would like to use something cheaper than Monster but also fo good technical quality, e.g. something from Radio Shack or Acoustic Research.

 

Thanks,

 

If your speaker impedance falls below 2 ohms, you should use 12 guage wire for your 30 and 45 foot runs.  If 4 ohms is the lowest dip, 14 guage will be fine for the 30 foot run, but you will still need 12 guage for the 45 foot run.

Wire lenth does not have to be the same.

Using lower than 12 guage wire is subjective....some folks say it rocks....others say there's no difference.

The brand of wire is also subjective...some folks use home depot lamp cord...other high end monster cable.....you could check radio shack for some HPXP cable....comes in a flat roll...has clear insulation....normally 30 and 40 bucks......they have these on clearance for 9 and 8 bucks.

[voxr3m]

This weekend I will be replacing the speaker wires for my home theater system. The main reason is due to some being spliced as I ran out of speaker wire previously and some of the wire being lower gauge (12 gauge). Please let me know what you think of the following questions. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />

Does the speaker wire length have to be the same for each set of speakers? For example, should the speaker wire for the L/R fronts be about 10 each. I have heard this can influence evenness of sound which does not seem to make much sense given how fast the sound travels.

The speaker wire runs will be about 30 feet for the L/R surrounds and 45 for the rear channel (they are mounted on the wall and I also run along the base of wall). I will use 14 gauge wire is this reasonable to provide clear sound but not create undue resistance?

Since my L/R fronts are about 10 each, should I use a lower gauge wire or will 14 gauge make a huge difference?

Any preferences for speaker wire? I really would like to use something cheaper than Monster but also fo good technical quality, e.g. something from Radio Shack or Acoustic Research.

Thanks,

1. The speed of sound has nothing to do with the 'eveness' you're talking about. If your speakers have low enough an impedance, the resistance of your speaker wire may contribute appreciably to the frequency response and loudness of the speaker. This will cause the speakers to not sound as they should. If you're using too thin a wire, then having unequal lengths will cause your speakers to behave differently from each other, making the problem even worse. If the wire is significantly thick enough, then the length won't matter as the wire resistance should be negligible compared to the impedance of the speakers.

2 and 3 speakerfritz seems to have covered.

4. Frankly, there is no difference between 'brand name' monster wire and your ordinary lamp cord if they are both the same gauge. Copper is copper as long as it's free of impurities. I think it's foolish to pay for 'brand name' wire and companies like monster reap tremendous profits from their wire simply because they've managed to convince enough people that they're wire is somehow better. Radioshack brand is fine. I've used it and it's as good as any more expensive wire. Do not let salesmen convince you that wire A is better than wire B simply because it's brand A. If it's the same gauge and conductor material, then you're basically looking at the same wire.

[Arky]

I predict 4 pages.

[Guest " "]

I predict 4 pages.

agreed, maybe even before this weekend is over.

[voxr3m]

I predict 4 pages.

agreed, maybe even before this weekend is over.

Better put on my fire proof suit then. [H]

[Guest srobak]

Reminds me of the "power dive" cartoon in Stereo Review years ago....

Place the amp high, with long swooping cable runs to your enclosures - gravity will help speed up the signal and it will arrive with more punch, which will be audible.

[TheChad]

This weekend I will be replacing the speaker wires for my home theater system. The main reason is due to some being spliced as I ran out of speaker wire previously and some of the wire being lower gauge (12 gauge). Please let me know what you think of the following questions. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />

Does the speaker wire length have to be the same for each set of speakers? For example, should the speaker wire for the L/R fronts be about 10 each. I have heard this can influence evenness of sound which does not seem to make much sense given how fast the sound travels.

The speaker wire runs will be about 30 feet for the L/R surrounds and 45 for the rear channel (they are mounted on the wall and I also run along the base of wall). I will use 14 gauge wire is this reasonable to provide clear sound but not create undue resistance?

Since my L/R fronts are about 10 each, should I use a lower gauge wire or will 14 gauge make a huge difference?

Any preferences for speaker wire? I really would like to use something cheaper than Monster but also fo good technical quality, e.g. something from Radio Shack or Acoustic Research.

Thanks,

1. The speed of sound has nothing to do with the 'eveness' you're talking about. If your speakers have low enough an impedance, the resistance of your speaker wire may contribute appreciably to the frequency response and loudness of the speaker. This will cause the speakers to not sound as they should. If you're using too thin a wire, then having unequal lengths will cause your speakers to behave differently from each other, making the problem even worse. If the wire is significantly thick enough, then the length won't matter as the wire resistance should be negligible compared to the impedance of the speakers.

2 and 3 speakerfritz seems to have covered.

4. Frankly, there is no difference between 'brand name' monster wire and your ordinary lamp cord if they are both the same gauge. Copper is copper as long as it's free of impurities. I think it's foolish to pay for 'brand name' wire and companies like monster reap tremendous profits from their wire simply because they've managed to convince enough people that they're wire is somehow better. Radioshack brand is fine. I've used it and it's as good as any more expensive wire. Do not let salesmen convince you that wire A is better than wire B simply because it's brand A. If it's the same gauge and conductor material, then you're basically looking at the same wire.

I wish people that obviously know nothing about High quality cable would stop spreading lies around the forum. If you want to use crap cables with your system, Have at it, but for god sakes don't tell others information that is untrue.

'Cheap' "lamp cord" type speaker wire is just wire. High quality SPEAKER wire, actually has thicker insulation, and Time correction.

P.S. I'm not a sales man. Just some one who knows 1/2 the poeple here don't know what they are talking about when it comes to cables.

[mas]

I wish people that obviously know nothing about High quality cable would stop spreading lies around the forum. If you want to use crap cables with your system, Have at it, but for god sakes don't tell others information that is untrue.

'Cheap' "lamp cord" type speaker wire is just wire. High quality SPEAKER wire, actually has thicker insulation, and Time correction.

P.S. I'm not a sales man. Just some one who knows 1/2 the poeple here don't know what they are talking about when it comes to cables.

ROTFLMAO Oh geesh, I think I just wet myself!

And by all means don't forget that some use directional wire where the electrons know which way to run in their new tennis shoes!

So, for all of you out there...to which "1/2 of the poeple here" do YOU belong? [*-)][:|][:S][][]

Now where did I put those time corrected directional Handi-Wipes???

[voxr3m]

I wish people that obviously know nothing about High quality cable would stop spreading lies around the forum. If you want to use crap cables with your system, Have at it, but for god sakes don't tell others information that is untrue.

'Cheap' "lamp cord" type speaker wire is just wire. High quality SPEAKER wire, actually has thicker insulation, and Time correction.

P.S. I'm not a sales man. Just some one who knows 1/2 the poeple here don't know what they are talking about when it comes to cables.

Thicker insulation? I'll buy that. Might come in handy next time you want to expose your system to the elements.

But whoa, time correction? Now how does that work? Please explain so that I, a simple minded electrical engineer, may understand this fascinating phenomenon. []

[Wrench722]

Try this link. I thank it is what you are looking for.

Speaker Wire

[twheats1]

Try this link. I thank it is what you are looking for.

Speaker Wire

Wow! Does that mean my 00 gauge welding cables are overkill? []

[nomathjobs]

I wish people that obviously know nothing about High quality cable would stop spreading lies around the forum. If you want to use crap cables with your system, Have at it, but for god sakes don't tell others information that is untrue.

'Cheap' "lamp cord" type speaker wire is just wire. High quality SPEAKER wire, actually has thicker insulation, and Time correction.

P.S. I'm not a sales man. Just some one who knows 1/2 the poeple here don't know what they are talking about when it comes to cables.

Thicker insulation? I'll buy that. Might come in handy next time you want to expose your system to the elements.

But whoa, time correction? Now how does that work? Please explain so that I, a simple minded electrical engineer, may understand this fascinating phenomenon. []

I love these discussions ,-) Years ago a good buddy bought a brand spanking new set of KHorns and a 100 WPC power amp to go with them. The sales guy told him "You should buy Monster cable to hook up your new system, it is much lower resistance so your system won't have to work as hard to product acceptable volume." My buddy replied: "Really? Speakers with 104 dB sensitivity driven w/a 100 WPC amp and I need to worry that speaker wire resistance will cause the amp to 'work too hard'? Nah, I'll pass."

"Directional" wire cracks me up too. What - it has bunch of itty bitty diodes in it?

I'm a newb to the forum, but know that this sort of debate has raged for years. FWIW I use 12 AWG copper lamp cord. The signal in the wire travels at the speed of light, so a few feet of difference in cable length won't matter. I don't buy in to any of the cable hype, sorry.

doug (the newb)

[colterphoto1]

Chad sez: "I wish people that obviously know nothing about High quality cable
would stop spreading lies around the forum. If you want to use crap
cables with your system, Have at it, but for god sakes don't tell
others information that is untrue.

'Cheap' "lamp cord" type speaker wire is just wire. High quality
SPEAKER wire, actually has thicker insulation, and Time correction.

P.S. I'm not a sales man. Just some one who knows 1/2 the poeple
here don't know what they are talking about when it comes to cables."

Please educate us then? What, pray tell, is TIME CORRECTION. And while you're at it, why do SPEAKER wires need 'thicker insulation', and how thick is thick enough? I want details and test results if you 'know what you're talking about'.

The standard answer you will recieve from most of Klipsch Technical Support people is 'use wire'.

By this we (I) mean, that for most normal home installations (not super powered systems or whole house wiring) good high quality copper wire, zip cord type is acceptable. 16 gauge for up to 50', 14 gauge beyond that. (we like to keep it simple).

That is all. Time Correction, give me a break.

[colterphoto1]

Directional wire does make sense for interconnects, it has the ground shield connected at only one end, usually the 'sending' side of the connection. Doc can explain further.

[colterphoto1]

more intelligent conversation by engineering types

http://hydrogenaudio.org/forums/lofiversion/index.php/t14082.html

[mas]

Directional wire does make sense for interconnects, it has the ground shield connected at only one end, usually the 'sending' side of the connection. Doc can explain further.

It may be a semantic distinction, but I prefer to refer to this configuration as a "directional interconnect" - where the ground is referenced in a 'star' pattern to the preamp and ground loops prevented while still providing adequate RF/EMI isolation.

This configuration IS a valid and worthwhile configuration. And it is also wise to mark the end where the ground is terminated (perhaps with durable cable marker tape) in order to indicate the end that should be connected to the pre-amp.

On the other hand, the concept of "directional wire" - implying that the wire itself favors the flow of electrons in a particular direction over another is unfounded. And lest anyone object, "strained" technology (as in 'strained silicon'), is not being employed in speaker cable.

[colterphoto1]

agreed- let's use that term henceforth

[TheChad]

Chad sez: "I wish people that obviously know nothing about High quality cable would stop spreading lies around the forum. If you want to use crap cables with your system, Have at it, but for god sakes don't tell others information that is untrue.

'Cheap' "lamp cord" type speaker wire is just wire. High quality SPEAKER wire, actually has thicker insulation, and Time correction.

P.S. I'm not a sales man. Just some one who knows 1/2 the poeple here don't know what they are talking about when it comes to cables."

Please educate us then? What, pray tell, is TIME CORRECTION. And while you're at it, why do SPEAKER wires need 'thicker insulation', and how thick is thick enough? I want details and test results if you 'know what you're talking about'.

The standard answer you will recieve from most of Klipsch Technical Support people is 'use wire'.

By this we (I) mean, that for most normal home installations (not super powered systems or whole house wiring) good high quality copper wire, zip cord type is acceptable. 16 gauge for up to 50', 14 gauge beyond that. (we like to keep it simple).

That is all. Time Correction, give me a break.

Now I know I'll get flamed for this, But years ago I use to work for a High End Audio/Video store, where once a month we would go to a weekend training, that would include Denon, Yamaha, Monster, Energy Speakers, Bose, Lucas Film etc, etc. We were shown the product, the Testing, Shown differences in nothing but wire alone, on and on.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />

It's been awhile, so I may not be explaining this right... But The Time Correction works by taking the inside of the wire and wrapping it around the center non-metallic core, while the wire on the outside runs straight. This makes the inside of the wire longer than the outside. If I remember correctly it is bass that travels on the inside of the wire with least resistance, So Time correction allows all the frequencies to arrive at the speaker at the same time.

That's a rough explanation. But I have heard/seen first hand everything from a $500 system, to a $20,000 system with nothing different but wire/cables, and it is like night an day.

However that is in the perfect environment sound proofing, etc. Can you see/hear the difference at home? Yes! Depending on allot of variables. But as always, the best part of your system is only as good as your weakest link. So even if you have $5000 in cables, and you use 'Lamp Cord' Speaker wire, all the rest of your interconnects are only going to help to the limitations of your Speaker cable (Weakest link)

As Ive said before, I don't agree with paying the SUPER inflated prices of Retail outfits. But you can get Good High End cable online for a negligible difference than the cheap stuff at the local Retail store, and you'll be allot happier with your system.

As for the thicker insulation, thats a no brainier. Insulation helps to block out interference. In todays world, with microwaves, Wireless networks, ETC. Interference is more and more common. How much insulation is too much? Well I don't see how you could have too much, but there is a point where adding more/thicker isn't going to yield any better results.

But 1/32 thick insulation, vs. 1/8 think, Ill take the 1/8th.

You guys can believe what ever you want. I personally don't care, but I am willing to bet very few of you have had the opportunities to compare side by side differences with your own ears/eyes. You can find on the internet ANYTHING, If you believe the sky is pink, you can find a website online that will show you all kinds of information, studies, etc proving the sky is pink. But in the end, I'll go out side and look, if the sky is blue; I am going to believe the sky is blue. I don't care what the studies show. Same with this. I have had the opportunity to hear/see the difference, and there IS a difference.

If you don't feel there is a difference, by all mean buy the cheap stuff. But for god sakes, don't tell people to buy $8000 high end speaker system, and tell them to use cheap cables. That's not fair to the good people trying to get themselves a nice high end system.

Think about this... You pay $8 for a hamburger at a fast food place, you eat it, and within 24 hours its out of your body. You can buy a $20 cable that will be around for rest of your life, and provide you with decades of enjoyment. That's a no brainier!

You guys can believe what ever you want, but I don't think it's fair to impose your personal believes on lower quality cable on newbies that don't know better. Everyone should tell people to use a High Quality cable, and advice that your best choice for purchasing cables in Online, and leave it at that.

-TheChad

[voxr3m]

Now I know I'll get flamed for this, But years ago I use to work for a High End Audio/Video store, where once a month we would go to a weekend training, that would include Denon, Yamaha, Monster, Energy Speakers, Bose, Lucas Film etc, etc. We were shown the product, the Testing, Shown differences in nothing but wire alone, on and on.

I'm curious. What did they tell you about bose speakers?