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1975 KHorn components


Max2

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Thanks Fritz. This is the same pair I discussed in a previous thread. Do the Xovers need to be fully replaced or just upgraded? How much would this be? I contacted the owner and they have never been touched. I feel like 2.5k+ is a little pricey for mint '75 Khorns even with the exotic wood. What do you think? Thanks for your input!

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IMHO.... $2500 is not too bad at all; especially with nice wood. Crossovers should have the caps replaced (if you are "soldering challenged", you can send them to a number of folks on the forum as you probably already know). You may wish to remove the bass bin covers and replace the panel gasket, check the wood to wood seams inside and lay in a bead of woodworker glue to make sure they are sealed. There are a number of other very cost effective DIY "tweaks" that can be done. You can PM me or search the forum for ideas. Biggest "tweak" is making sure they are sealed to the corners. There a number of ways, including the original factory "flap" method. You might also consider replacing the metal gliders with teflon to protect your floors, replacing the K-55 to horn gasket (they are usually totally dried out, etc.), maybe the diaphragms on the K-77's, make sure the 400 horn is flush with the driver board, etc., good 14 gauge speaker wire, inline fuses, new tweeters (CT-125's), etc., etc....

The old hot rod saying "Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?....." applies to sound.....

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"I feel like 2.5k+ is a little pricey for mint '75 Khorns even with the exotic wood"

2500 is not a bad price for khorns.....a lot of fourm memebers have passed around 2000 khorns...I just sold some super nice ones for 1650...have seen some as cheap as 1000.

problem is you need to be where the deal is....so if it is a local deal...factor in the cost of a long road trip or shipping that you saved.

my new khorns are costing me 700 bucks in sales tax and 400 bucks in shipping.

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IMHO.... $2500 is not too bad at all; especially with nice wood. Crossovers should have the caps replaced (if you are "soldering challenged", you can send them to a number of folks on the forum as you probably already know). You may wish to remove the bass bin covers and replace the panel gasket, check the wood to wood seams inside and lay in a bead of woodworker glue to make sure they are sealed. There are a number of other very cost effective DIY "tweaks" that can be done. You can PM me or search the forum for ideas. Biggest "tweak" is making sure they are sealed to the corners. There a number of ways, including the original factory "flap" method. You might also consider replacing the metal gliders with teflon to protect your floors, replacing the K-55 to horn gasket (they are usually totally dried out, etc.), maybe the diaphragms on the K-77's, make sure the 400 horn is flush with the driver board, etc., good 14 gauge speaker wire, inline fuses, new tweeters (CT-125's), etc., etc....

The old hot rod saying "Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?....." applies to sound.....

Thanks for the "heads up"! So there really isn't much difference in todays components and yesteryears as far as actual sound.

I have a pretty thick piece of trim around the base of my floor. I think its a 1"X4" or a 1"X6". Will I have sealing issues with this and wood flooring?

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"I feel like 2.5k+ is a little pricey for mint '75 Khorns even with the exotic wood"

2500 is not a bad price for khorns.....a lot of fourm memebers have passed around 2000 khorns...I just sold some super nice ones for 1650...have seen some as cheap as 1000.

problem is you need to be where the deal is....so if it is a local deal...factor in the cost of a long road trip or shipping that you saved.

my new khorns are costing me 700 bucks in sales tax and 400 bucks in shipping.

Man, I wish I would have been closer to you Fritz. I would loved to have taken those K's from you. Will there be a big difference in your new ones when compared to the ones you sold?

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I have a pretty thick piece of trim around the base of my floor. I think its a 1"X4" or a 1"X6". Will I have sealing issues with this and wood flooring?

Not really.... You would then have to use a thicker foam gasket.... But.... You might want to remove the factory "tailboard" (carefully..) and cut an identical piece, but with the cutouts to match the baseboard, and add about +1/4" to the cut to compensate for some foam sealing tubing. Wood flooring.... Remove the metal gliders so your wife (girlfriend, significant other, parents, etc.) do not go nuts when you scratch the nice floor... and replace them with thin teflon gliders; OR if you know your floor is "flat", use a bunch of felt gliders and it will lower the bass bin to within about 1/64" of the floor (or to a negligable gap..). KEY = sealed into the corner....

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