Deang Posted December 27, 2007 Share Posted December 27, 2007 "What DCR should I shoot for on the woofer?" http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=266-908 Air cores in the woofer filter is a waste of money. "What is the advantage of using the .36 mH for the squawker ..." I don't think there is an advantage, I wouldn't bother with it (sorry John:). "I am using a 5 to 6 watt SET which gives plenty output in there current state. Hoping these mods don't drop the effeiency too much since I can't afford to lose much with this amp." Dropping down on the taps and adding the resistor means you'll lose over 3dB of output for the midrange and tweeter. That's quite a bit when you only have 6 watts to begin with. So, they won't get as loud, but they'll sound smoother through the middle and more balanced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ecir40 Posted December 27, 2007 Share Posted December 27, 2007 Thanks Dean. What cap value would you go with for your recommended inductor for the woofer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ecir40 Posted December 27, 2007 Share Posted December 27, 2007 My guess is this would put me back with a 2uF cap, but should result in a little more output for the woofer because of the lower DCR on that inductor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted December 27, 2007 Share Posted December 27, 2007 With the Type E, there is no cap in the woofer circuit. The 2uF cap going to tap 5 on the autoformer (primary cap) is the squawker high pass. The reflected impedance through the autoformer back to the amp is roughly 128 ohms -- which is how you end up with a 2uF value for a 700Hz crossover. When you add the resistor, the reflected impedance goes down to 11 ohms -- so the cap value goes way up (21uF). I suggest you keep it simple and just build a nice set of Type E's from scratch. Get new autoformers from Bob Crites and buy the best 2uF caps you can afford. The VH Audio V-caps sound very nice in those old filters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ecir40 Posted December 27, 2007 Share Posted December 27, 2007 Gotcha, thanks again for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ecir40 Posted December 28, 2007 Share Posted December 28, 2007 Dean, I pulled this quote from you in this thread. http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/p/97582/986735.aspx#986735 "I've tried all of the different network mods and networks for the Heresy. Keep it simple; the top is too hot in relationship to the bottom (a common complaint). So, put a 15 ohm resistor in parallel with squawker, you can screw it right to the + - spots on barrier strip for the squawker. Then move the tweeter from tap 2 to tap 1, and the squawker from tap 3 to tap 2. This lowers the midrange and treble by 3dB which brings the bass up and makes the speaker sound much more balanced. The 15 ohm resistor means you don't have to change the primary capacitor value. IOW's, it keeps the crossover points the same. I suggest you try it, you probably won't feel the need to do anything else." I think I will go this route with the best caps I can afford and 15ohm resistors. Looks to be the simplest and cheapest route to take. The only thing else I would like to change would be the inductor you recommended above. Can you comment if there would be any benefit between using a 2.2mH compared to the 2.5mH on the woofer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooloud Posted December 30, 2007 Share Posted December 30, 2007 "I've tried all of the different network mods and networks for the Heresy. Keep it simple; the top is too hot in relationship to the bottom (a common complaint). So, put a 15 ohm resistor in parallel with squawker, you can screw it right to the + - spots on barrier strip for the squawker. Then move the tweeter from tap 2 to tap 1, and the squawker from tap 3 to tap 2. This lowers the midrange and treble by 3dB which brings the bass up and makes the speaker sound much more balanced. The 15 ohm resistor means you don't have to change the primary capacitor value. IOW's, it keeps the crossover points the same. I suggest you try it, you probably won't feel the need to do anything else." can anyone make a schem on how to do this? its all greek to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ecir40 Posted December 31, 2007 Share Posted December 31, 2007 This is the unmodded schematic. Just follow the mods in your post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ecir40 Posted December 31, 2007 Share Posted December 31, 2007 "Then move the tweeter from tap 2 to tap 1, and the squawker from tap 3 to tap 2." Just noticed that this part of that quote is wrong, was probably a typo. I'm pretty sure you want to move the squawker from tap 2 to tap 1, and the tweeter from tap 3 to tap 2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooloud Posted January 1, 2008 Share Posted January 1, 2008 put a 15 ohm resistor in parallel with squawker, you can screw it right to the + - spots on barrier strip for the squawker. im guessing i will understand once i go buy the 15 ohm resistor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ecir40 Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 Just finished these upgrades to my type e crossover. I went with the recommendations above by relocating the tweeter and squawker taps on the autoformer and adding a 15ohm resister in parellel with the squawker. Thanks, just what I was looking for. tooloud, these pics should help you out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooloud Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 good job ecir40, yes that totally helps. so how does it sound??? did u move the squawker from tap 2 to tap 1, and the tweeter from tap 3 to tap 2? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pmsummer Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 Oops. My bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ecir40 Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 I moved the squawker and tweeter and I think this was the most noticable differance. I don't think changing the inductor made much of a differance. I would recommend just changing the caps, adding the resistor and moving the squawker and tweeter taps and go from there. I would also make some risers if you don't have them. The best way I can describe the sound is the speakers are more balanced and blend together now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooloud Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 did u move the squawker from tap 2 to tap 1, and the tweeter from tap 3 to tap 2? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ecir40 Posted January 12, 2008 Share Posted January 12, 2008 Thought that was clear, yes I did. You do this on the autoformer, it will be more clear when you open it up and have a look. You can also search t2a and you should find a plan for the t2a that shows the taps and their numbers.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBrennan Posted January 12, 2008 Share Posted January 12, 2008 Is there any Heresy 1 crossover upgrades ? To modify a Heresy crossover for best sound just clip the two wires inside that run from the terminals to the crossover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooloud Posted January 12, 2008 Share Posted January 12, 2008 ecir40, yes i have the schem with them numbered, but if u have squawker on 1 and tweeter on 2 then why arent they next to each other? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ecir40 Posted January 12, 2008 Share Posted January 12, 2008 See pdf here http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/p/95932/972050.aspx#972050 Looking from the top, taps 1 and 2 are beside each other. Tap 1 goes to negative of squawker on terminal block. Tap 2 goes through capacitor then to negative of tweeter on terminal block. Resistor is mounted between the positive and negative terminal on the terminal block for squawker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooloud Posted January 14, 2008 Share Posted January 14, 2008 ok maybe im confused ,im lookin at it rt now on my desk. i dont think i have a clue as to how to identify the taps. i see a wire jumping along back of terminal block but i dont know if this is considered the taps or what or how to know which is 1,2,3,4 or what? ooooo, i see, the taps are on that wax impregnated thing. lol ok ok ok Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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