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Mobile: Rolling Tubes


Deang

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Mobile,

After much reading and hand wringing I have decided to stay with my Anthem gear.

I am however going to replace the tubes in my Amp1.

My pre1L is currently using Amperex and since they are fairly new I'm going to stay with them.

I am curious about what to do about the amp though.

I'll need (2)12AU7's (1)12AX7 & (4)EL34's

1) I need a trustworthy source for tubes

2) Mullards or Siemans?

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deanG

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Why did you decided to keep your Anthem gear? Didnt you actually make another purchase? Trying to keep all the tube purchases straight! Lordy, there has been a lot of activity here as of late.

Do you prefer new tubes over NOS? OR a mix?

Two places that I happen to like, the first is mainly new tubes while the second provides harder to find NOS.

Triode Electronics (Ned)

http://store.yahoo.com/triodeel/tubes.html

Tube World

http://tubeworld.com/

Would you rather spend some extra on NOS or go the new route or both? I would probably end up getting a mixture. NOS EL-34 are VERY pricey though. You will probably want NEW for them. What are you currently running in those positions via that Amp 1? Let me know.

kh

This message has been edited by mobile homeless on 01-11-2002 at 10:46 AM

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I stayed with the Anthem stuff for several reasons. I'm using a pair of RC7's as mains and had some real concerns about dropping my wattage. I tend to like a little volume to my music and the 40 watts really hits the mark. I was looking at a Conrad Johnson Cav50 and a Cary 80 watter but both were pretty much out of my price range.

Besides really liking the build quality and the asthetics of the Anthem stuff - I also like the sound of it. I figure why bankrupt myself when I can maybe improve on something I already like with a more realistic investment.

The amp is currently running the stock tubes. The 12au7's and 12ax7 are Chinese. The EL34's are Sovtek's.

Yea, you're right. NOS Mullard EL34 matched quad are $900!! Forget that. Quote came from a guy named Fletch on AudiogoN.

I did get some good advice from him on how to mix 'em up. However, since I haven't learned the sonic characteristics of the different tubes yet it is pretty overwhelming.

For example - are the Amperex 6922's in my preamp best described as 'rich', or 'lean' and 'analytical'? If I knew - it would be easier for me to figure out what to put in the amp.

And what has a greater impact on the sound? The preamp? The driver tubes in the amp? Or the power tubes?

How about Siemens EL34's, Mullard 12ax7, & Mullard 12au7's?

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deanG

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"For example - are the Amperex 6922's in my preamp best described as 'rich', or 'lean' and 'analytical'? If I knew - it would be easier for me to figure out what to put in the amp. And what has a greater impact on the sound? The preamp? The driver tubes in the amp? Or the power tubes? How about Siemens EL34's, Mullard 12ax7, & Mullard 12au7's?"f>s>

Lordy...all these questions! I usually end up writing a damn novella when given this kind of input; indeed, it was hard to hold back after ole Søren authored those interesting posts in the vinyl thread.

I will say right up front that I believe the preamp is one of the most important parts of the chain as it is dealing with the signal as such very low voltages and mistakes here can become very problematic down the line. OF course, the same can be said for source components...still, I think the preamp is one of the most important in the chain; but they ALL do have impact as common sense would indicate. Those that think it is the speaker and all else secondary are not up to speed in my opinion.

All the tubes in the preamp and amp have an impact on the sound. Most brethren usually run for the power tubes as the first major change to make via their new amp... but you can find just as much change (and just as dramatic an affect) by swapping input and driver tubes in your amp. Actually, even the rectifier changes the sound.

As for your choices, if you want new for the EL-34, the Svetlana are not bad although they did go through a rough stage where some were having probems. But they are pretty nice tubes and much better than the average Sovtek EL-34. I used Svetlana EL-34 in my ASUSA A-4 amp and DID have a problem with one shorting which took out part of the power supply of my amp.

What kind of sound are you looking for? Do you favor a more musical and lush (not romantic, though) type of presentation or are you more after the extremely incisive sound? Have you ever tried the 5751 in place of the 12AX7?

I have liked Amperex 12AU7. It all depends on what you are after. Have you decided anything yet?

kh

This message has been edited by mobile homeless on 01-16-2002 at 12:27 PM

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  • 1 month later...

I wasn't too sure where to post this question, it concerns tubes. I'm presently driving 78 K-Horns with the George Wright WPL 20 Pre-amp along with his WPA 3.5 mono blocks. I'm very satisfied with the sound, low end needs a little help, but overall great detail in the sound...wonderful! The stock tubes that come with the 3.5's are the Sovtek 2A3, Philips 5Y3 WGTA, and a generic 6SN7 (no Identifying letters or numbers on tube). Does any body have any thoughts or suggestions for better tubes to try with these amps? I'm curious now with all the talk lately of tubes on this forum. I've learned a lot from folkslike Mobile and his postings (thanks Mobile, by the way). Any thoughts would be welcome. Thanks in advance. Frt8dog.

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Those are some GREAT amps for the money. I know those amps pretty well and you got some excellent gear. I think the Wright Sounds amps have some of the best midrange around and sound sublime.

I think you can definitely get some benefits from rolling the tubes in those amps. RIght off the bat, you will get better sound with a good NOS 6SN7. The Sylvania 60s 6SN7WGT does very well. I like a lot of the 50s and 60s Sylvania 6SN7s. Another good friend swears by the CBS 5692 in the SN7 spot. I use that tube in one of my 6SN7 slots in my Moondogs and it works great.

If you like a more big, bold sound, try the TJ Full Music 300B/2.5v Meshplates. They are slightly more thick sounding than 2A3, but are very rich with a big boned sound. My friend loves them. Good to have the choice. The Sovtek 2A3 does VERY well in this amp, especially for the money.

My favorite 2A3 tube for the Wright 3.5? It is undoubtedly the RCA JAN 2A3 CRC VT95 Black plates from the early 40s. These tubes have a subtle yes amazingly articulate nature with excellent detail, finesse, harmonic bloom, air, and a certain sense of "right" that is just not available in ANY of the new tubes. It is my favorite tube. It wont sound quite as powerful compared to the Sovtek, but it MUCH more refined. As for the rectifier, there are subs here as well...but that is the last place I would fill.

George Wright also is offering a free upgrade to install a circuit mod if you are getting any hum via your Khorns. It is a worthwhile mod and he pays for it! Personally, one could also upgrade some of the caps choices in there if interested. STock, it is a great little amp though. REally one of the best deals in SET land.

I have heard great things about the new preamp. I always thought the little model 10a 6SN7 preamp was amazing for the price as it was so natural sounding.

To put it succinctly, when my buddy brought his Wright 3.5 Monos over to play on my Cornwalls, after 30 minutes he got up and looked on ebay for a pair of Cornwalls! He LOVED the Wrights on the Corwnalls as did I. I would imagine they would sound great on any of the Heritage Klipsch.

What wire are you running?

kh

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A few observations on tubes:

Any tube function, preamp, phase splitter, or power can have a significant impact on the sound.

The way a tube is used can also have an impact: for example, I found that Sovtek KT66 sounded better in ultralinear mode than Valve Art. However, when I rewired the amp to use the output tubes in triode mode, the Valve Arts were much better. Both of those companies make EL34s .. so, If I were to guess, I'd say Ultralinear > Sovtek .. Triode > Valve Art. Art Audio uses Valve Art. does that help?

I've been using a real nice collection of 12AU7s that I thought were E.German. From what I can tell, the European tubes tend to be better suited to audio.

Recently I've used http://www.thetubeshop.com and http://www.halfin.com/shop/index.htm. both have some nice NOS and are very responsive. (halfin may appear expensive, but I've found their quality to be good .. so in the end thay're not expensive.)

The 12AU7 will be an ECC82, 12AX7 will be ECC83 (I think). You probably know that.

good luck.

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Mobile,

Thanks for all the info...just great! Where is a good place to pick up tubes? E- BAy? In regards to the wire/cable. The back of the WPL20 has RCA outputs for the 2 sets of speakers (A and B). I run a 20 ft long cable with RCA jacks at each end. The cable is called Excelorator cable (recommended by a local home theater/stereo shop). They use this cable on custom home theater installations. I think it sounds great! The 9:00 position on the Pre-amp is as far as you want to go without blowing walls down, K-horns are so efficient/dynamic. The way the system is set up, the K-horns(with WPA 3.5's on top) are on one side of the room and the Pre-amp is located on the other. Probably not the greatest set up but it works. (had to consider the wife and her decorator tastes). From the amps to the speakers I just have some 14/12(?) GA Monster cable, probably about 1 1/2 ft.with spades on the ends. In regards to the upgrade, I had some horrendous Buzz/Hum when I got these amps last fall and was really disappointed. I heard how great these things were with Heritage line stuff and was shocked. To make a long story short, I sent them back, he fixed them and returned them all within a week. They had bad power transformers, he made good though on his product, which was reaaly nice. Now they're dead quiet! Great guy to work with! I highly recommend George and his "Wright Stuff". It's a good match with Klipsch speakers. I'm looking to add a CD player and I've read some good stuff on the Rega Planet along with your input... we'll wait and see. Time to split. Sorry for the long thread, but your input is greatly appreciated. Thanks again. Frt8dog

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Tube World

http://www.tubeworld.com/

As for wire, many in here believe it makes no difference. All I can say is that I have heard otherwise. I have not participated in any official double-blind listening tests. I have, on the other hand, had many cables run through various systems. I have experienced cable that I prefer perform badly depending on matching. I can tell you that in general, I have not liked the lower to mid level Monster Cable products. TO me, their multigauge wire sounds rather unrefined and coarse. Then again, the last time I said something of this nature, several members of this forum took out a collection to form a posse to take me out of my misery.

I have not heard of your IC wire. But I have found certain combinations to work. Perhaps you can drop me a mail if interested in banter on the subject. I have a feeling that your Wrights might prefer experimentation here.

kh

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Phono Linn LP-12 Vahalla / Linn Basic Plus / Sumiko Blue Point

CD Player Rega Planet

Preamp Cary Audio SLP-70 w/Phono Modified

Amplifier Welborne Labs 2A3 Moondog Monoblocks

Cable DIYCable Superlative / Twisted Cross Connect

Speaker 1977 Klipsch Cornwall I w/Alnico & Type B Crossover

system one online / alternate components / Asylum Listing f>s>

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