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Yet another refinishing question


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Just scored some '79 Cornies! They sound great now, even though I will be replacing the caps in the networks soon. They are listed as CBR, which must mean Raw Birch, finished with some sort of maple and about 30 years of tar and nicotine. My wife, who was already giving me the evil eye over the sheer size of them, is now pinching her nose when she walks in the room

I've never veneered anything before, so let me ask all you knowledgeable woodworkers out there: is this a good first project? Should I strip these things and veneer them, or will stripping the finish make the birch unsuitable for veneer? Any special tools I need besides patience and a steady hand? Thanks for your help!

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BR is birch - raw. Turn them upside down and using only mineral spirits, wipe them down until nothing else comes off. If the wood (veneer) appears to be "even", and is a very light color (there will be some natural "yellowing"), then likely as not you can continue cleaning them up on all sides.

At that point, you can decide on a stain, or if there are nicks, scratches, banged in corners, et., you can decide on veneer. Regardless, you should be able to lightly sand them with 220 grit using a random orbital sander and the surface will then be prepared for a nice stain, or to apply some new veneer. Veneering is not that difficult, but with the Cornwalls, you would want to "practice" on something else to get used to appluing the veneer.

Go to www.joewoodworker.com and read his articles about veneering, particularly those items about "heatlock" glue, and the differences in the veneer types. For most "beginners", you may wish to stick with paperbacked veneer. To do a pair of Cornwalls, it will take a full size sheet (4'x8') and a 1/2 sheet (2'x4') with some left over. You will need "edgebanding", and the glue. I recommend "heatlock" and it will generally do just fine.

Hope that is of some assistance for you.

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I would contact forum member Chris King regarding how he refinished (or had them refinished " the cornwalls pictured here. I know what they used to look like because they used to be mine. i bought em new unfinished and oiled and waxed them I would add furniture wax from time to time. Chris got em and did wonders to them

Josh

you could also do a seach for chrisking cornwalls and Im sure you will find many threads regarding the finish.

Josh

post-12293-1381937449831_thumb.jpg

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Sounds like a nice project you have planned. I've just refinished a set of Heresey 1 in Mahogany but have always wanted Cornwalls. I'm going to risk sounding long winded, but I've notice a few people have asked for a detailed description of the veneering process.

As a first project, applying veneer is not really technically difficult, but you must be meticulous and plan it out. Although I prefer the good old fashioned contact cement method (old habits die hard), iron on veneer and heat activated poly vinal acetate (white glue) work just as well, need fewer tools and make less of a mess. I used to work in a cabinet shop which did a lot of veneer work and we would always strip cabinets of finish before we applied the veneer. You never know how the contact cement or the heat from iron on veneer will react with the old finish.

Fill any scratches or busted corners, sand, and plan your veneer layout. Ensure the veneer's grain flows unbroken across the tops and sides (like a waterfall). Cut your pieces 1/4" larger on all sides. Start with the bottom, then the sides, next the top, and last but not least the front. Apply contact cement to both the cabinet and the veneer using a brush and roller (thin the cement with laquer thinner if required). Apply a second coat of contact cement to the edges and corners of the cabinet and areas where the 1st coat might have soaked in too much. Wait for the glue to dry to the touch and position the veneer on the case very carefully.

Start at one edge (you did cut your pieces square didn't you?) and press on firmly (using a wood block if you don't have a roller). An old trick is to use a hot iron (use your wife's best one) to help really kick off the contact cement on the edges of the case and on any longitudinal seams in the veneer. Trim almost flush with a really sharp razor knife (use a new blade) and a really sharp pair of scissors (sharpen or buy a new pair) and sand flush using 150 grit sandpaper around a wood block (finish off sanding with the grain to avoid scratches that will show in the finish), or a quarter sheet orbital sander if you have one.

Continue the process until all the sides are done. Use iron on banding for the fronts and miter the corners using your really sharp sissors or. Sand smooth with 150, then 220 sandpaper and lay on whatever finish you desire whether it be oil, polyurethane etc.

Hopefully this helps explain the process. Good luck.

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