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---------------- On 1/16/2005 8:59:25 PM Colin wrote: I don’t have major problems with it, except that nobody I know want to run all those cables around their room, most people could use a really good 3.1 system on one wall or in a unit, I guess the one thing I might have added was to use challenging pieces of good music that they love to test the sound, to buy several units at once and listen at home first before deciding… ---------------- I agree, I think 3.1 systems should be pushed more. I have heard so many HTiB systems (mostly bose) where the rear speakres are so quite or don't even sound good that they are better off just being off.

Ok my question is why are you reading anything on yahoo? WWW.GOOGLE.COM memorize it.

I sold mine for 227 off ebay, good luck!

Juduging by the dementinos, the rcx looks to have more volume. but its hard to tell without seeing both speakers rcx-4 rvx-42 FREQUENCY RESPONSE: 92Hz-20kHz ±3dB 92-20kHz±3dB SENSITIVITY: 94dB @ 2.83V / 1 meter 94dB @ 2.83 volts / 1m ENCLOSURE TYPE: Bass-reflex via dual rear-mounted ports Bass-reflex via dual side-firing ports HF CROSSOVER: 2100 Hz 2175Hz WOOFER: Two 4" (10.16cm) Two 4" (10.2cm TWEETER: 1" (2.5cm) 1" (2.5cm) DIMENSIONS: 5.5" x 14.5" x 8.25"(without base) 24" x 5.75" x 4.5" (vertical without pedestal base) WEIGHT: 8 lbs. (3.6kg) 14 lbs. My guess is this, If you need something slim for a wall mount, then the RVX-42 is necessary Otherwise if you need the space and the depth is not an issue, then the RCX-4 would be ideal. If size is no object, get RC-XX

There is a slight chance it could be interference. Did you hook up any new lamps to your circuit, in particular ones with dimmers? Otherwise, it might be time for a new system - sorry

I'll just go ahead and suggest the obvious SVS PB10-ISD $429 + $52 for shipping + $20 for the cable = ~$500 Its arguable the best subwoofer in its class, and its a very safe purchase.

Ya, I was watching Dr. No!

yes, please tell me what you think. The RCX-4 has dual ports in the rear and is fairly deep. So I'm not sure that the volume difference is that great, however Klipsch claims the RVX-42 hits 75 while the RCX is 92. Thats 20+ hrz deeper. EDIT: NM, the 42's are only rated at 92hrz, the 54's were 75

yes, the RW's are perfect for built in's. They are front firing and front ported. I would leave some room in the back to connect the cables and adjust the gain/phase/crossover(obviously) and vent the amp somewhat.

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most sound cards now have 8 channels audigy revo catalina any other 7.1 card the problem is, you dont have a discrete LFE nor a center, this would not give you any better environment for movies or games. You best just getting a the ultra 5.1's

Im saving up for the 54's, but I can pretty much guess they wont have the bass extension of the 35's but they probably have better midrage, and definitely better soundstage. If you mix them with a subwoofer and get the crossover just perfect, I'm guessing you wont even notice thier lack of bass extension. I also asked a Klipsch representative who has heard the 54's if my RCX-4 would be a good center over the RVX-42. They both have the same drivers and number of them. I was told the RCX-4 would be perfect and there was virtually no need to change it. However, I have yet to heard both speakers to compare them.

get an RC-25 and replace thores rears ASAP! RB-10 or RB-15's should be perfect for the rears

One last question: Is there any sort of ETA?

ok ok gosh.. I want my sws 2.0 so bad! but you have to admit, it looks just like it! beveled top and bottom exactly like Promedia, single 8" front firing driver with rear firing slot port. Anyway, can you give us any info on the AMP? it say its 200 watts peak? how much perchannel and how much does the subwoofer get? thanks

OT: does the ipod have a digital out add on feature? like the iDigital or some crap? that would be nice.

Great, now I have to change my name so I'm associated with that piece of sony trash

Thats like running a Ferrari on 87 octane. Mine gets 92, and the ipod DAC definitely 87. The Klipsch iFi 2.1 is appropriate for the ipod, but heritage is not. It needs a more appreciative sound source unlike the crappy components.

I am getting very efficient at building silent PC systems and only one company comes to mind when I think of silent computing www.zalmanusa.com They have a 100% fanless and select PC case. Yes I say fanless! Its no surprise when you see the MSRP of the TNN 500A ($1500) but they also have other great components if you want to have a low-noise case for a lot less. You could also go with the watercooling route, but its not better quieter than good air cooling componests, and I dont like to trust my entire PC to a single cheap pump. Here is what I would recommend, and this is from a lot of experience, trust me on this issue like no one else. Antec Phantom 350 Power supply. Its 160 bucks, but its 100% fanless, and 350 watts is all you will need, trust me. Plus this PU has two 12volt rails so youll never have to worry about your CPU eating too much power. If you cant justify the price tag, Zalman has a 80 dollar 400 watts PU thats very quiet. Thermaltake also has a 110 dollar fanless PU, but I dont like that company. Zalman CNPS7700-Al Heat sink (if it fits in your case and on your main board, otherwise get the CNPS7000-Al. This CPU heatsink is amazing. I think it is the absolute best design around and its very quiet due to a very large surface area. Zalman ZM80D-HP fanless VGA cooler which is designed for ATI's and GeForces. If you get the newest Geforce or ATI you will need a fan, but you dont need those cards for an HTPC, you're not playing videogames, you need quality video out, not speed. The other Geforce 4 or ATI 9700 are plenty Zalman ZM-2HC2 harddrive stabilizer and cooler This component is greater because it has rubber washers which act as dampeners for your hard drive. Once you build a silent case, youll notice some vibration noises cased by your harddrive. This can be corrected with this device. It also cools the hard drive which can prolong the life span. 2x Zalman 80 case fan or Coolermaster 80mm case fans both these fans have good ball baring design, but the secret here is not just the fan, youll need the couple the fan with a fan controller to reduce the RPMs. Unless youre overclocking, case fans dont need to move much air. I would recommend two Zalman Fanmates. They have a knob which adjusts the fans RPMs. You can use double sided sticky tape and stick them on the inside of your case (out of sight) They are very clean and cheap and work perfectly. Vantec Power supply and Fan damping kit. These are like rubber gaskets for your power supply and fans that can reduce irritating noise vibrations. They are very cheap so dont hesitate. I have no recommendations for the case. But I will say that you should get something thats big. I like the Antec outside models. They are pretty much he standard PC case, Lian Li makes some slick looking stuff and so does coolermaster. Get whatever you like, just get something without a power supply and expect to replace the fans unless they are coolermaster As far as components go, Make sure you get a mainboard that does not contain fans and if that is unavoidable, get the Zalman Northbridge fanless cooler. Make sure you get a GOOD mainboard. Do your homework because this will save youre a pain in the ***. I have had even the best brand names fail on me, so dont just buy it because of its name, do your homework and research the exact model and printed circuit board version. For CPUs I happen to be an AMD fan, so I would recommend on of their chips. For memory, just get whatever. I have had almost no problems with cheap memory vs. expensive registered member. I dont think this is a very critical aspect to consider when building a PC unless your overclocking. For a hard drive, Lately I have liking what Samsung has to offer. I find they are quiet and reliable unlike my IBMs Maxtor and even Western Digitals. You can not avoid getting 7200 RPMs and maintain the size capacity you need for an HTPC. Youll probably want to store either movies or music on this drive and I would recommend at least 160 gigs. The Zalman hard drive kit should help with the noise. I also think 7200 rpm models are newer and more reliable, furthermore the speed increase is huge enough to justify the slight noise increase. Dont get a 5400 RPM model! DVD rom. I got a cheap 25 dollar Samsung. I find it very loud even though it said it was not, but I would recommend it if you just need something cheap, but I really dislike its noise problems. It happens to be VERY Fast. I noticed when watching movies on my PC, rewinding or just navigating through the DVD menu was almost instantaneous when compared to a standard component DVD player. I cant make any recommendations for this component other than maybe you could try some older optical solutions which run at maybe 8x or 4x DVD speed. I will say that when the movie is playing, I dont noise the noise, even at 2 feet away, even during quiet scenes, but you might want to do some more research and see what you come up with. Video card. I have heard ATI has nice video output. Make sure you get something with digital out (not analog and not s-video) The digital out is the best solution and it can be hooked up right to a projector. Some ATI cars even have dual VGA out and thats a nice feature too. Dont worry about the speed of the card either, just get something with quality. Soundcard, a seemingly critical aspect. All you need is digital out, and digital out cant be low quality or high quality, its just digital, on or off, 1 or 0. You may want some analog options for music, but you can even use digital out for that and go right into your receiver for an even better DAC. I recommend a M-audio Revolution 7.1 or a Creativelabs Audigy 4.

http://www.klipsch.com/newscenter/press.aspx?cid=793 Its been posted a few times in the promedia boards, but I know many of you are *too good to travel down to the depths of the cheap audio solution forums so I'll repost this here Its got RSX's, which, as an ower, I think are remarkable sats, and a subwoofer that looks like a redesigned SWS with reference components. Having owned the SWS I can say that it behaved in no way like a normal multimedia subwoofer. It was an 8" sub unleashed from hell! for its size and power and cost, I swear nothing could touch it. Anyway, Im looking forward to this system. It would be great for the office!

---------------- On 1/10/2005 2:00:14 PM Amy Unger wrote: Well, no, but yes if you want to say new dimensions, new parts, and new amplifier qualify for "redesign." ---------------- exactly, its the SWS 2.0 but with reference components? Amy, how does this sub compare to the RW-8? I'm excited about these speakers. But you know whats really funny, I (and several others) recommend this system a long time ago (minu the ipod part) rsx-3's + sws like sub = 2.1 hmmm.. even if Klipsch didnt listen to us, at least they can read are minds Keep up the good work!

This system is far from overpriced. And I agree that (yes you could get a ultra 5.1 for the price), but I know for a fact that this system would blow the ultra 5.1 away as far as sound quality and Im sure it would hang with the 5.1 in the volume department too! If that subwoofer is anything like the SWS be prepared for some slam factor, and we already know those RSX-3's are nothing short of remarkable. My question is, which forum do we talk about this system in?

rsx-3's retails for 130 a piece. thats 260 for the speakers the SWS retails for 199 dollars. I would be shocked if this subwoofer was anything less than the SWS and its only going for 140 dollars if you take the RSX-3's at retail value. THEN to top that off, you get a ipod dock and a built in amp for the RSX's. I'm sorry, but this is NOT an inappropriate price. I think its very reasonably priced.

Building a HT room (every man's dream) My father sold his house and is building a new one on an empty two acre lot. He wants one story house so that its spread out which I agree with completely because it helps with noise and privacy. I have talked him into building a subterranean home theater room. I figured this would be the best place for a home theater because its surrounded by dirt and rock outside the walls with no windows and we can do a concrete floor above the room. Forget about bothering your neighbors, lol. My first question is what would be the best room dimensions to prevent standing waves? Straight walls, curved walls, tall ceiling, low ceiling, angled ceiling? I think we just want 1 row or seating of couches (not theater chairs). Possible a second elevated row, but it would be another couch. The room is going to have wall and ceiling carpet or sound proof material of some kind. My second question is I need some suggestions for materials. Obviously its going to be a projector screen set up and Ill either talk him into the THX system or some RX-7 all around. Either way, its going to rock! But could you guys help me with me with those questions so I can start digging! (we got the excavator on site!) The house will be done in 2-3 years, so dont expect pictures any time soon (design stage only, sorry) PS: When this is done, Im going to move back in with my parents, lol

This is a little harder than meets the eye. the bose features some built in mp3 player. Granted its prolly nothing better than any 150 dollar mp3 player on the market, but you still have to factor that in for a bose lover to have no argument. You also need a dvd player and receiver. Granted, you could buy a 99 dollar receiver and easily surpass the crap offered in that bose system, but it would not do much justice for your speakers that was consume the rest of your 4000 budget. The other thing to consider is, do you want to try and keep things small? Because that is a big argument among bose lovers. In that case, you'll have to go with RSX's otherwise get the biggest speakers this budget allows. Furthermore, is this strictly for HT? In that case do not get side tracked with RF-anything or floor speakers for that matter. They dont add much for HT, stick with bookshelfs as fronts and focus more money on the A/V electronics.