Deang

No, I had it right - I just thought you wire the positive of the second set of speakers to the positive of the first set, and like-wise for the negative (negative to negative). I see you got the 555es. Ain't it sweet? Hardcore audiophiles love to split hairs -- but the ES Sony machines sound very good.

You actually wire them out of phase in relationship to the first set? Uh...I never did it that way. Hmmm.

So, which one is "Clipped" and which one is "Shorn":)

So how do we apply the scale? Don't we usually use the "C" weighted scale on our meters? I don't have my meter handy and I can't remember. How does this "A" weighting relate to the "C" weighting?

I miss him too. I hope he's O.K. Lynnm -- please check out my cap install question

Getting down to the nitty gritty with the crossover board. I'm still prototyping the new board, and thanks to Al - found the eyelets and staking kit. I should be ready to roll next week sometime. Right now, I'm just laying everything out. The sizes of the new parts are substantially larger than the old ones, so things are naturally being shuffled around some. I have a question regarding the caps. The Multicaps use the standard tinned copper leads, and they are bent down the side of the caps long-ways. What I would like to do is bend them back clear the other way, so I can get the shortest possible leads. Is it cool to do this?

The impedance spec is wishy washy for sure. If you wire directly to the amp with both sets, you could end up overheating the amp if the speakers are both closer to 4 ohm. That would be "parallel" wiring. To wire "in series", hook one pair up the amp as you normally would, and then wire the other set to the terminals of the first set.

Sounds like you're determined to get an amp. Since you are cutting to the sub, I don't see where an amp is going to make a substantial difference on the low end. You might change the signature of the bass a little, but it's not going to justify the money for the new amp. You will get a better sound overall, but you shouldn't be expecting a jaw dropping difference with the bass. Upgrade your sub.

Prodj101, Lion of the tribe of Judah:)

Well then, I will just use them and just hope for the best.

Yes, that's a great site. That's where I found the inductor calculator and the information I needed to roll my own. I guess if I'm really paranoid, I can put the 'ole ohm meter on the leads -- and if everythings O.K. -- I should get zero, right? Any resistance would mean a short?

...by the resident rookie. Working at my bench last night and managed to knock about a half dozen of my caps to the floor. The floor is in my basement, and has just tile over cement. The nice polypro caps bounced pretty good -- with a nice smacking sound. Uh...think I broke anything? What's "in" a cap anyways?

I'm betting the Norh uses a passive volume pot, and not a full blown preamp section like the ASL. So, with the Norh, you get SET with a tube rectifier and passive preamp section. With the ASL, you get push-pull, and a true preamp section. Tried the passive thing, and didn't care for it -- not one bit.

"Ears SHOULD make the choices..all other factors(price range, etc) being the same." I would like to know how "Ears" qualifies to make all the choices for the rest of us? I mean, he listens to a damn Krell:) Good article. I wish I had the background to understand all of it. Still, plenty of things in there that I did understand. Everything Builder said is right, but I think it's also true that some things just sound inherently better than others. Inversely, some types of distortion probably annoy the human brain, regardless of the biological/physical composition of the middle ear, or personal taste. For the most part, all humans like ice cream, though we might have our individual preferences of flavor or brand. However, no human would like ice cream if you added a few drops of something nasty into every dip.

To get the kind of bass you are describing then you are going to have to go into K-horn, or dual SVS-Ultra territory. No short-cuts here. You want your chest thumped, then you are going to need to move LOTS of air. You could also do what some here have done. Instead of using a sub, use a pro type bass bin with four 12's or 15's and a plate amp. Run that with your RF3's and you'll be stroking -- or have a stroke, I'm not sure which:)

The one to get is the 4004 MKII if you can find one. I paid $750 for mine. I thought you were doing multi-channel? You have an RC3, right? Hmmm. Hey Kelly, think I'll hook that Aragon up to my RF7's and AE-3 tonight, just so I can try and figure out what the hell "bees-knees" is:)

Ray, as always - pegs it. We need more info. Budget limitations, as well as how big your room is, and how far away you sit -- would be nice too. Since you have a center channel, it sounds like you are building a multi-channel system -- which really makes a difference as well. As far as the power thing goes, I'm with Tom on this. Just because you have 200 watts doesn't mean you are going to be pushing 200 watts and blowing out your ears. The additional power will give you more headroom and extension during peaks -- and this is not a bad thing to have -- especially for HT. I'm doing 35 watts with RF7's, which is just right for me -- as I do plenty of movies. I say with the RF3's, you should be fine with the 90 watts you have. So, enter Ray's post -- what are you looking for? I just checked out the Denon 2802, and it looks really well made. Maybe what you should really do is find something to replace that Aiwa:)

Sticks and stones will break my bones, but words will never hurt me -- but please -- don't throw sticks and stones.

Apparently, 101 is in good company. Check out this transformer layout. http://cgi.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cl.pl?ampstube&1037552926&class&3&4&

I think I'm just going to bug out for a couple of weeks until the problems and issues are resolved. As it now, I think the new forum stinks. I have no idea what the improvements are. Also, you're right -- it's dog slow now.

Yea, it's great if you know HTML. I can't view the code used in others post to see how it's done either. On the old board I could do that.

I was the one who made the comment that records sounded somewhat "flat" and compressed compared to CDs. This shouldn't be surprising though, as the dynamic range and noise floor of the digital domain is far superior to vinyl. "In the Flesh" shows the true potential of the SACD medium. The problem is not to be found in the CD medium -- but in the recording studio. Also, the SACD "Blow by Blow" by Jeff Beck, absolutely smokes the vinyl version (at least, on the vinyl rig I heard it on). My ears like the sound of digital, as long as it is recorded well. Preference may also be dictated by system and room. Rooms accommodating "full range" horns, and possess more then their fair share of hard, reflective surfaces -- may not be conducive to good sound from digital.

Promotion. Congratulations. Soon, you will have "no life".

Hey John, everything's "basic" to you! Maybe you should change your avatar - you seem a little *****y today:) 101 - man, 100 watts. It must be class A/B push-pull. Did you base your amp on another amp's design -- or is it like "scratch" scratch?