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Deang

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Everything posted by Deang

  1. Been a while since I worked on those. Aren’t there two PCB versions, one that is double stacked and one that’s single? Doesn’t that 6uF mount vertically? It doesn’t matter which way they are oriented, it’s AC. I do cave to my OCD and orient them the same on both networks. I like that adhesive, but once it’s on that’s it. I would let it cure at least 24 hours before getting any heat near it. Could I please see a good pic. Thanks, Dean
  2. Roy doesn’t like the zeners and I don’t like the polyswitch. I haven’t put tweeter protection in anything I’ve built in 20 years - no complaints. CCF12192022.pdf
  3. Lol. It’s just a super close up of the solder joint.
  4. You just clip the lead from the other side of the cap - you don’t need the whole thing.
  5. I would turn them into AA’s. You need two additional 2uF capacitors and two 245uH (.25mH) inductors (20 gauge wire). You should be able to find Jantzen inductors over there pretty easily.
  6. @Jhakobe Your values are small enough that the capacitor body is short enough where the lead will protrude once you bend it over the body of the capacitor. For larger axial electrolytics, you can do what’s shown. I have no idea if these will show up in the right order.
  7. Yeah, impossible to find, at least for some of us. Maybe @henry4841can help. I just slightly extend one of the leads using the j-hook method. I’ll post a picture here later this afternoon if you don’t know what I mean by that.
  8. Just a guess. Cornwall Birch Raw, 26th week, 1981, numbers 677 and 668. Take network to Type B2 (if it isn’t already). Run a hand over the capacitors and make sure they aren’t seeping oil. Even so, most update the capacitors. If you want to do it yourself, kits are available through JEM Performance Audio. If you don’t want to do the work, I’m Klipsch authorized to do it. JEM, 412-401-6915 Deang, 937-718-4218
  9. JEM Performance Audio 412-401-6915 Hard to beat getting the exact correct values with a single phone call.
  10. @geoff. Just curious if you used a T4A and other Klipsch parts, or after market? AL-3. Steeper slopes. Turn it up.
  11. I avoid it because it’s only 20 gauge wire, and once you crush it, there isn’t much lead material left at the end of crimp to maintain mechanical integrity, especially inside of a loudspeaker cabinet which is about the worst place possible for a network.
  12. I never could decide if it made sense on a film capacitor, especially a film and foil. ALK and John Warren both told me it only made sense on electrolytics. Wow, I just realized something - I think that may have been the only thing they ever agreed on. Does live music sound a little grainy, or is it smooth like butter. Just something to think about.
  13. Nope, but I've played with DC biasing (charge coupled network).
  14. I'm still tempted to use a fuse like the AK-3, but will need approval. Just haven't had time to deal with it. The day job has me pretty tied up right now. I've always believed that if a person is determined to blow up their loudspeakers, they will find a way.
  15. AA rolls off the tweeter at 21dB/octave. Along with the additional protection, you get better imaging and more power before the K-77 turns into a Kazoo. The AA also has significant EQ to address a peak in the K-77's response. There is a recent thread, now buried, where testing showed low level distortion exhibited by the diodes. While discussing this with Roy, he told me to either not use them or use the 100 ohm resistor in parallel with the polyswitch.
  16. @EdgarIt was a joke Edgar. There are three kinds of people in the world; those that do math and those that don't.
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