Jump to content


Heritage Members
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Days Won


Posts posted by Deang

  1. If your plan is to gut them, the cabinets would be practically worthless. I can’t imagine anyone paying for them with no drivers or crossovers. 

    if you are tight with money, the answer is definitely not destroying a perfectly good set of loudspeakers. 


    They were designed to be used as stage monitors and have a strong vocal presence. Converting the networks to the AA will rebalance the loudspeakers. It will pull the midrange back so you can hear the bass. 



    • Like 2
  2. I think we should leave any enforcement of the rules to the moderators. 


    We should always be interested in helping somebody figure out a problem. It’s not like he’s here shilling.


    The sound you are describing is what one might hear with no tweeters, yet you said you changed the diaphragms out. You should start by double-checking that they are actually working.

    • Like 6
  3. What is the general condition of them? In nice condition they are still demanding a premium. I see them regularly go for $2500 - $3000. 

    Tweeter diaphragms are inexpensive. 

    Dead squawker could certainly be a bad connection. Loosen and retighten all of the screws on the terminal strips. 

    AL-3 would be the best network for that driver complement. Least expensive route would be to find some on eBay and recap them. I build new with OEM parts. Cost is $645.00 a pair. 



    • Like 1
  4. On 12/24/2023 at 8:51 PM, delta88343 said:

    Unfortunately however, Klipsch Heritage speakers are more sensitive to this room effect than dome radiators with a wider dispersion patten.

    You have it backwards. 

    Horns have controlled directivity. 

    I think they’re brighter because that’s how they’re voiced. Live music doesn’t sound “buttery smooth”, in fact, most live music is fairly bright and a little harsh (a little).  

    • Like 1
  5. 1 hour ago, Xtomasx said:

    Sound is still there in the tweeter, just very faint. 

    That’s because there is a 100 ohm resistor in parallel with the polyswitch. When the polyswitch tripped, the signal was rerouted through the resistor. That you can hear sound through it means you didn’t blow a diaphragm. 

    It’s the correct part. You’ll be fine. I would use clips for heat sinks when you solder the polyswitch in.

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  6. 7 hours ago, OO1 said:

    there is no need to modify the HII crossover to add a bandpass filter  , the bandpass filter is separate from the H II crossover  

    Not sure what are you talking about.


    You can’t use the Ti diaphragms or use the Ti drivers without modifying the network. The parts go in between the autoformer and driver. Klipsch doesn’t sell the filter section separately.


    Since it a non Klipsch mod, the Klipsch alternative is the Heresy III upgrade kit - which is really the correct way to do it. 

    • Like 2
  • Create New...