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Everything posted by Deang

  1. @ampedI hope it’s not too late - don’t use that adhesive on that material. If you ever have to remove anything, it’ll destroy the board. Also, long cure time, and I wouldn’t get any real heat near it for at least 24 hours. If you send me the networks I will do them for free, just pay for shipping both ways. You would actually be doing me a favor because when the kits were announced, I knew these might be a major pain. It gives me a chance to work the puzzle and to help out Jim (JEM).
  2. Don’t say “cheap”, you’ll scare the children.
  3. Nothing wrong with that. Saves him the trouble of diaphragm replacements.
  4. I thought he could do Mouser for the capacitors? Jantzen is Danish, and they’re part of the EU. Their products should be everywhere over there.
  5. Been a while since I worked on those. Aren’t there two PCB versions, one that is double stacked and one that’s single? Doesn’t that 6uF mount vertically? It doesn’t matter which way they are oriented, it’s AC. I do cave to my OCD and orient them the same on both networks. I like that adhesive, but once it’s on that’s it. I would let it cure at least 24 hours before getting any heat near it. Could I please see a good pic. Thanks, Dean
  6. Roy doesn’t like the zeners and I don’t like the polyswitch. I haven’t put tweeter protection in anything I’ve built in 20 years - no complaints. CCF12192022.pdf
  7. Lol. It’s just a super close up of the solder joint.
  8. You just clip the lead from the other side of the cap - you don’t need the whole thing.
  9. I would turn them into AA’s. You need two additional 2uF capacitors and two 245uH (.25mH) inductors (20 gauge wire). You should be able to find Jantzen inductors over there pretty easily.
  10. @Jhakobe Your values are small enough that the capacitor body is short enough where the lead will protrude once you bend it over the body of the capacitor. For larger axial electrolytics, you can do what’s shown. I have no idea if these will show up in the right order.
  11. Yeah, impossible to find, at least for some of us. Maybe @henry4841can help. I just slightly extend one of the leads using the j-hook method. I’ll post a picture here later this afternoon if you don’t know what I mean by that.
  12. Just a guess. Cornwall Birch Raw, 26th week, 1981, numbers 677 and 668. Take network to Type B2 (if it isn’t already). Run a hand over the capacitors and make sure they aren’t seeping oil. Even so, most update the capacitors. If you want to do it yourself, kits are available through JEM Performance Audio. If you don’t want to do the work, I’m Klipsch authorized to do it. JEM, 412-401-6915 Deang, 937-718-4218
  13. JEM Performance Audio 412-401-6915 Hard to beat getting the exact correct values with a single phone call.
  14. @geoff. Just curious if you used a T4A and other Klipsch parts, or after market? AL-3. Steeper slopes. Turn it up.
  15. I avoid it because it’s only 20 gauge wire, and once you crush it, there isn’t much lead material left at the end of crimp to maintain mechanical integrity, especially inside of a loudspeaker cabinet which is about the worst place possible for a network.
  16. I never could decide if it made sense on a film capacitor, especially a film and foil. ALK and John Warren both told me it only made sense on electrolytics. Wow, I just realized something - I think that may have been the only thing they ever agreed on. Does live music sound a little grainy, or is it smooth like butter. Just something to think about.
  17. Nope, but I've played with DC biasing (charge coupled network).
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