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Everything posted by Deang

  1. Isn't cabinet resonance factored in when designing the crossover? I mean, if there is a 3db peak at 400HZ because of cabinet resonance - aren't the crossover components adjusted to compensate for this? So if you dampen the cabinet - you get a 'dip' at 400HZ instead of 'flat'. At least, I thought it worked that way. ------------------ deanG
  2. I stayed with the Anthem stuff for several reasons. I'm using a pair of RC7's as mains and had some real concerns about dropping my wattage. I tend to like a little volume to my music and the 40 watts really hits the mark. I was looking at a Conrad Johnson Cav50 and a Cary 80 watter but both were pretty much out of my price range. Besides really liking the build quality and the asthetics of the Anthem stuff - I also like the sound of it. I figure why bankrupt myself when I can maybe improve on something I already like with a more realistic investment. The amp is currently running the stock tubes. The 12au7's and 12ax7 are Chinese. The EL34's are Sovtek's. Yea, you're right. NOS Mullard EL34 matched quad are $900!! Forget that. Quote came from a guy named Fletch on AudiogoN. I did get some good advice from him on how to mix 'em up. However, since I haven't learned the sonic characteristics of the different tubes yet it is pretty overwhelming. For example - are the Amperex 6922's in my preamp best described as 'rich', or 'lean' and 'analytical'? If I knew - it would be easier for me to figure out what to put in the amp. And what has a greater impact on the sound? The preamp? The driver tubes in the amp? Or the power tubes? How about Siemens EL34's, Mullard 12ax7, & Mullard 12au7's? ------------------ deanG
  3. Mobile, After much reading and hand wringing I have decided to stay with my Anthem gear. I am however going to replace the tubes in my Amp1. My pre1L is currently using Amperex and since they are fairly new I'm going to stay with them. I am curious about what to do about the amp though. I'll need (2)12AU7's (1)12AX7 & (4)EL34's 1) I need a trustworthy source for tubes 2) Mullards or Siemans? ------------------ deanG
  4. louder than conversational levels This message has been edited by deang on 01-08-2002 at 12:07 PM
  5. Deang


    Just got my LF10 Saturday and I'm happy. No leaks that I am aware of. It's a sleeper for sure. Nice tight, tuneful sound. ------------------ deanG
  6. I saw Judas Priest back when they were very young and just starting to tour. They came into Dayton's Hara Arena with 40 Crown Amplifiers and horns galore. I was prepared for a nightmare of screeching sound. What I got was the best indoor sound I've ever heard. Thank God for equalizers When musicians and sound people actually take the time to do it right - they get very good sound. I heard Pink Floyd in Cleveland Municiple Stadium back in late 70's. They actually waited for the stadium to fill and then announced they were going to perform a series of 'tests' beginning with 'pink noise' - and asked everyone to be as quiet as possible while they did this. Ended up being a very good sounding concert. I also saw Areosmith once and had to leave after the second song because the distortion was hurting my ears and the standing waves were making me nauseous. Rock music in bar is typically pretty obnoxious sounding and I tend to avoid it like the plague. ------------------ deanG
  7. There are many people who do not readily know what the impact of room boundary effects are on the sensitivity of a speaker. I agree with Tom here. It is better if we just know what the speaker does. Since no two rooms are alike, and since no two people set their speakers up exactly the same. There should be only one standard so consumers can make valid comparisons. I guess a valid question would be: How do other manufacturers measure the sensitivity of their speakers? ------------------ deanG This message has been edited by deang on 01-05-2002 at 02:22 PM
  8. You guys are great...thanks. ------------------ deanG
  9. c'mon you guys - talk to me ------------------ deanG
  10. I always read the tube amp threads and 'lurk' quite a bit over at The Asylum. I generally only understand about 1/2 of what I read but enjoy it none the less. I'm currently using the Anthem stuff. The AMP1 uses EL34's and is an ultra linear design. Since it has come up - I've been checking out the Antique Sound Labs stuff and I guess I have a few questions: 1) I don't have big 'ole horns. I have what Tom Brennan so affectionatly refers to as 'Klipschettes'. I think SET is out for me - just a bit too flea powered considering what I have to drive (a pair of RC7's). Should I expect any of the ASL products to actually sound better than the Pre1L/AMP1 combo? 2) Do the ASL products use point-to-point wiring? 3) If not, then which (as opposed to witch) product do I have to move to for the purchase to be considered a true upgrade? thanks, Dean ------------------ deanG
  11. Connecting two subs to a two channel only system with a separates sytle preamp with two sets of pre main outs. Can you just use one interconnect from the preamp to the subs 'left' input and another from the preamp to the other subs 'right' input and be done with it? Or should you use RCA Y adapters on the end of each interconnect going to the each sub? ------------------ deanG
  12. http://www.ubid.com/actn/opn/getpage.asp?AuctionId=6406320 How is this possible? I thought they were only produced with the Black Ash vinyl? ------------------ deanG
  13. hey ears - If it bothers you that much why don't you just replace the driver? how do the RB3's compare to the RB5's? ------------------ deanG
  14. betcha i know what it is the backside of the binding posts has nuts that tighten against each post one or both may be loose take the screws out of the plate and tighten them back down ------------------ deanG
  15. Deang


    I can't possibly imagine me driving one to those levels. I just landed one off of ubid for $429. Is the 'leak' problem the surround on the driver itself or just the gasket between the basket and cabinet. Is it just the active driver or the PR's also? ------------------ deanG
  16. Deang


    they are showing up on ubid anyone know why klipsch abandoned this design ------------------ deanG
  17. Actually, you mean the RB7. Here it is: ------------------ deanG
  18. I cannot possibly imagine anyone buying SB3's over the RB5's. The SB3's sound about what one would expect at that price point. RB5's sound like speakers costing $2K or more. Enjoy the great sound of the RB5's now and get your separates later! ------------------ deanG
  19. I have no experience with the Carver stuff - but your main concern seems to be the power issue. Too much power is better than not enough. Speakers are typically damaged from amplifiers being overdriven rather than being fed too much power. I ran RB5's for some time with a 200 watt amp and they loved every watt This message has been edited by deang on 12-27-2001 at 09:16 PM
  20. It was said to me recently that the small subs with the class D amps and equalization circuitry have a tough time accurately reproducing in the 30 - 50 HZ range. I was told that since they are tuned to play so low - they dog out on music in that critical range. What say you submeisters? If I wanted to buy a sub for Rock music (strictly chest thumping purposes) - which one should I be looking at? ------------------ deanG
  21. ...compared or heard a set of RC7's in comparison to the RF7's. Outside of the bass of course - is there any real difference in their sonic signatures? ------------------ deanG
  22. Power button feels O.K. - I mean, it goes 'in' and 'out' like it is supposed to but it doesn't do anything. Is this a mechanical failure of the button or could dirt cause this? ------------------ deanG
  23. I am somewhat fanatical when it comes to my gear so the amp is in excellent condition with no scratches or dings. On occasion I pull the cages off of my gear and blow the dust away. The Luxman was just 'cleaned' last month. The amp is a bipolar design using Darlington radio grade transistors in matched pairs. The amp is a high current design, carries a two ohm rating, and is bridgeable - that is, it can become a 'mono' amp. This makes it a good candidate for someone looking at the SVS subs. I paid $1300 for this amp new and I will let it go for $375 + shipping. ------------------ deanG
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