Rockets

Go here for a fairly simple introduction(s) This site will tell you more than you want to know in rather simple terms http://www.bcae1.com/ Click on "home page" and on the left side of the screen you should see a list of chapters...go to chapter 54 "passive crossover" Once you're done there go back to the beginning Chapter 1 for a good overview of electronics http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/audio/cross.html#c3 http://www.passivecrossovers.com/ http://www.members.shaw.ca/loudspeakerpage/crossover.html http://www.audiocontrol.com/techpapers/techpaper102.pdf

D Man where's the Cherry? Or did you pop it already?? ) Daddy, Thanks. No screws, but I do see some evidence of brads maybe three or four per side. It's the glue ripping apart the lamination I'm worried about. I don't know if there's a method - mechanical, heat or solvent- to help break the bond. If it weren't for the brads I'd cut the damn thing off. The HF motor board is going to be trashed anyway. BTW, the CAD drawings and the BASS extention thread is the driving force behind this misadventure. Anyone else with a tried and true method???

I have one that's pretty beat and I want to use as a test mule. I'm sure someone out there knows how to do it with out destroying everything in the process. I'm assuming it's only glued on, but I could be wrong and I don't want to just go blindly in swinging a hammer at it. Please clue me in! Thanks

Al, here are some sites that may interest you. I wasn't done looking, but honey dooooties are calling http://www.emachineshop.com/ http://www.cfadesign.com/google.html http://www.vatsaas.org/rtv/construction/nosemold/nosemold.aspx http://www.fibreglast.com/ http://composite.about.com/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?zi=1/XJ&sdn=composite&zu=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.fiberlay.com%2Fhowto%2Fissue1.htm http://composite.about.com/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?zi=1/XJ&sdn=composite&zu=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.aplicator.se%2Ffiles%2Fman_spra.htm http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/eserv/eclipse.ecl?PROCID=WEBPROC.WOE.AUTH&AUTOLOG=YES&ID_1=3&CLEV=MORE&TRACKNO=0 http://www.vandykestaxidermy.com/subcategory/130/ Good luck

Just measured mine. Back brace 22 1/4. Total height 35 1/4. Sorry I didn't have time to measure earlier.

Jim, the best I can tell you've picked up the errors I've found, though I didn't have time to check all the other measurements. Good job, BTW.

It was I who said the Bass Bin Top needed to be 23", but I never double checked the dimension on the HF motor board as I'm not using one for my project. Having said that I just measured the HF motor board on my LS and it is indeed 10 3/4". I also measured the side at 33 3/4"...which begs the question...How long is yours??

I know that HK's are not under powered. I'm on my third one and I used to think they were under rated. Lately after cranking them full tilt and hearing not the slightest snap, crackle or pop I can't help but wonder if they're not really rated as to their maximum 'clean' output and they won't let you push them any farther. Ok, this probably isn't true, but it sounds good to me! LOL! Maybe I should rephrase the above as saying HK rates their amps as to the actual "usable" watts. Just go buy one, you'll be happy you did! Just don't expect much out of the remote contol...

ooteedee, concerning the Bass Bin top...that's correct or at least it's the way mine is.

Marvel, That's the one. Nice quick cut n paste btw!

Marvel, I *think* there's an error in those LaScala plans. Part number (6) Bass Bin top, and Part number (7)Woofer door are both the same size @ 23 3/4" X 22 1/4". I think the Bass Bin Top needs to be 23" even...or at least the one I own is, then again I can't measure ) Also theres a part missing. I have a 2 1/2" by 22 1/4" brace that goes across inside the back and is fastened to the top.

Belle Plans?? I found these posted by Jim E on the "Belle Klipsch" thread in this forum. http://forums.klipsch.com/idealbb/files/Belle%20Klipsch2.pdf BTW, NICE job Don! Unfortunately my speakers are still on paper Rockets

LOL!! That's the same guy that told me about the shrinkage problem with the joints! I had emailed him about his iron on glue and veneer tape. Were you joining small pieces or wide ones? I don't know if it'd make a difference, but I'm curious. Someone suggested to me to overlap the pieces ever so slightly and then take a small veneer plane and cut off the piece that was standing proud after ironing. I guess you'd have to start by ironing the section furthest away fron the edge, hoping the shrinkage would pull the overlap inline, and reduce the trimming needed. I don't know if that would work or not. This is a dumb question, but since the veneer shrinks due to all the water being dried out of it, couldn't you reconstitute it by dampening it with water?? I'm sure the vacuum would work, but that's way to big of an investment for me for a one time event. Once I'm done...I doubt I'd ever use it again. Sorry for all the questions, but I'm trying to learn from your mistakes! Thanks TC

Tom, I have a question too! Did you have any problems seaming the veneer together w/ the iron on method? I've read that the heat of the iron often dries the veneer out enough to where the seams separate. I plan on using veneer on my project as well, and don't want to screw it up! Using a vacuum bag isn't really an option either. Thanks!! Rockets

Thanks Tom. I noticed it, but I also knew that I haven't exactly been hanging out here in quite awhile...just too much to do. I didn't know that he was called up. I hope he is well and comes back unharmed. Rockets

HDBRbuilder, I just read your response concerning the Lascala plans that you posted. "The dimensions I put on those German plans were measured directly from a pair of 1977 Klipsch factory LaScala cabinets...and are right on the money!!" This may very well be, but I think I found an error anyway. could be wrong, and it wouldn't be the first time I couldn't measure (which is WHY I plan to hire someone to cut the wood for me) but per the plans Item # 6 "bass bin top" is shown as 23 3/4 X 22 1/4. What I measured on mine was 23" X 22 1/4". Per the print Item # 7 "woofer door" shares the same dimensions as item #6...maybe dislexia set in??? Would you mind double checking this, maybe I downloaded the wrong set, but so far the other measurements seem to be correct. I only caught this as I was comparing your drawing to my existing speaker as I need to modify the drawing to fit my projects needs (when and if it ever gets legs) of using the Lascala bass bin, 511 & 290-16, 2404H, and DJK's mods including use of an internal corner reflector/waveguide. Crossover is still up for grabs, but will probably use a modified AA. Maybe when I'm done the Q-Man and I can "RUMBLE" LOL!! Actually, I would be quite interested to hear the difference. While I have your ear, can anyone tell me why I shouldn't do this...Would there be a problem biscuit joining a piece of solid hardwood to the edge of 3/4" 7 ply? I've been told it's a mother to make the doghouse roof sections because todays veneer on plywood is so thin it splinters. Besides looking cool I thought about taking a 3/4" X 2" piece of hardwood and joining it before having it cut to 60 degrees. Okay, it's your turn to load your guns and blow holes in my idea... By the way guys, I appreciate the ideas and help posted here. THANKS!!! Too much work and too little time... Rockets

Q-man, I don't know who he is. I just spotted his auction while I was looking for parts. His horns look like an oversized 511 w/o the vanes if you ask me. I don't know about going down to 200hz either. The horns may be capable, but given what you've learned about the Altec 290's, I'd question if the JBL's could pull it off or not. I'd be curious to know how he forms his joints! Not being a woodworker it's hard for me to imagine joining thin curved surfaces such that they wouldn't vibrate apart in time.

They're the right range, but no doubt too late for you. I think they are kinda cool though...maybe someone else here might be able to use them. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3078589870&category=50597

Q-MAN! When are you going to start that thread?! I want to hear about your crossovers, and how they sound! I've been following Al K. threads on crossovers, and am curious to see what approach you and John have taken. THANKS!

I have a question, which I'd appreciate if some one could verify something for me. My problem deals with when I'm listening to CD's in any of the "surround modes" that use the center speaker. What I'm saying is, if I have all of my channel settings balanced to "0 db" my center channel output is actually 10db to 15db higher than my mains. For that matter my rear surrounds also seem to be elevated. I've "set" everything 10db down from the mains, but the center channel and rears are still out of whack (or is it me?). I don't recall them being this way in the past, but then again my memory is.... Could someone check theirs before I email HK? Oh, before you ask...my center speaker is a KLF-C7, my mains...are in flux...I using a Lascala as an engineering unit as I try different upgrades (but the 10db+ measurements were made using the stock Lascala), but normally I run some older Altec's that are rated at 94db. The Surrounds are KSP-S6. THANKS for the help!

Thanks Shawn, I wish I could use them too.

Shawn, I'm a little corn'fused here. In the "902-8b.jpg" there's of only two to three db difference between 400 to 500 hz. This chart is with the 902/511b combo without a XO, correct? The "Altec 902 Crossover.jpg" shows the same configuration, but with and with out the ALK crossover. The problem I have is now the w/o has a big notch in it in the 400hz to 500hz range. Can you explain this? I'm really interested in what you're learning here, but this puzzles me. I have another dumb question. What kind of amp are you planning to run this with? The 902, from what I've read is rated at 15w, while the 909 (same family of driver) is 30w to 160w depending upon the measurement methods/bands used(scary). Unfortunately, the freq. response plot is not nearly as flat as the 902 you've shown, as it drops off at 5Khz. The reason for my question is for my own application, where using a low power amp is not possible. Thanks for the help!

Just read this about a PayPal VIRUS http://story.news.yahoo.com/news?tmpl=story&cid=1093&ncid=1093&e=7&u=/pcworld/20031117/tc_pcworld/113478

Nice job! I wish I had some wood working skills...I'm limited to measuring with a micrometer, marking with chalk and cutting with an axe......

Formica, I can't give you the "definitive" answer, but I do know that corner reflectors are used for the calibration of microwave signals. Why? Becaue of their high GAIN and ability to return the signal directly to its source. Now do a little creative thinking here or extrapolation...and think about your ceiling and floor corners. Depending upon your wall height you may have several 8 to 10 foot or more corner reflectors built in. Due to this size you can cover a broad spectrum of 1/4, 1/2 or full wavelengths. Anyway, to me, the best way to kill this is by eliminating the 90* angles. You'll never totally eliminate the return, but you can significantly reduce the gain, and directivity by changing the angle of attack the sound waves have to bounce from. Sticking a small, 1 foot to 18" flat triangle in the ceiling corners should, by itself, knock the hell out the gain...though I haven't taken the time to prove it... Try creating a containment bag and filling the corner with "spray foam" LOL!! Sorry...... A change of 3 db here, another 3db from floor carpeting, and another from...well you get the picture! Of course, this is only my opinion...and that's all I have to say about that.