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BusaDude

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Posts posted by BusaDude

  1. 11 hours ago, juniper said:

    I was wondering if someone knew how much HP increases in cold dry weather. I was driving my wife's V8 audi mid sized sedan, that usually isn't very peppy, and I can always feel additional weight when driving it, like extra passengers, or the spare tire in the trunk. I drove it the other day and it was cold and dry and it feels like there is around 35 additional HPs. So if a car has around 350hps approximately how much would it increase if it was around 5 below zero and 10% humidity.

     

    The only way to know for sure is to put the vehicle on a dyno and make a few runs. You'll end up with an uncorrected figure for HP and torque, that is good for that day and those conditions.

     

    Those numbers would then be corrected to the SAE J1349 Standard, using 77°F, 29.235 in/Hg (or 990 mb) and 0% relative humidity.

     

    There are dyno/horsepower correction calculators all over the internet. But they won't tell you anything unless you know the atmospheric conditions.

     

    http://wahiduddin.net/calc/calc_cf.htm

     

    http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/ghtp-1109-fact-and-fiction-of-dyno-correction-real-wheel-horsepower/

     

    http://www.dynojet.com/products/dynamometers/Automotive-dynamometers.aspx

  2. 21 hours ago, dtr20 said:

    I was wondering why was the forte was designed with a passive radiator and the chorus was ported? Then why did they change to the passive radiator for the chorus ii? 

     

    From everything I've ever heard/read, the Chorus was to be an option (smaller footprint) and/or replacement for the Cornwall II. The Cornwall was a front ported speaker so it could be placed against a wall or in a corner. And I'm guessing that's why the original Chorus also had ports on the front.

     

    In 1990 Cornwall II production was stopped, and the Chorus II was introduced. And since the Cornwall was no longer around, I'm guessing the Chorus II was changed to match up with the Quartet and Forte II, both of which had rear passive radiators and the new Tractrix midrange, which were updated the year before in 1989.  This created a trio of models which all had a similar design and a matching midrange horn.

     

    Im sure there's an acoustic/engineering reason, but someone like @Chief bonehead

    would have to answer that question.

    • Like 1
  3. 21 hours ago, jjptkd said:

     

    Yes, I've heard this quite a few times before, they each have their own unique sound for sure. The forte II seems more laid back and softer yet the lower bass seems to reveal itself with somewhat ease. The Chorus II is more up front, in your face and the bass while a little more reluctant to present itself when it does is a totally different, live chest thump kind of experience. I imagine how loud you listen, what type of music you listen to and the equipment used to drive them could easily sway one to prefer one over the other.

     

    I've owned both and while I really liked the Forte II (which for the money may be the best, most well rounded speaker they've made), the Chorus II just had that little "something" extra. I always describe it as being "smoooooth" and DYNAMIC! And with the right amplifier it has bass that will thwack you in the chest.

     

    I only sold mine so I could get my first pair of LaScalas...

    • Like 1
  4. 53 minutes ago, mr clean said:

    I have this question sent to klipsch also just wondering if I could get a quicker answer on here. Just got my speakers and want to make sure they are covered. Thanks in advance.

     

    As long as they were purchased from an authorized dealer and you have the original sales receipt... You should be covered.

  5. 9 hours ago, zdude said:

    GPBusa, we talked of this a few months back. I have pretty much decided to purchase a nice set of 30's and do the Crite's mods for the front. I believe he has some upgrade available for the C-7 too. I'm not in a great hurry, still renovating the house we are moving to so I have time to do some of the speaker box bracing I have seen by M.J. I'd like to find a set of 20's and upgrade them too with Crite's stuff and speaker box work. My only real question is the RS-7's, they are not in the KLF line but they have always performed great. This will probably be my last big speaker project and I'd like to get it as right as I can. My 10's are nearly like new, but I'm sure there are upgrades available for them.

     

     

    Crites has crossover update kits for all of the KLF series as well as complete brand new crossovers.

     

    And the titanium diaphragms for all but the 10's. Though the 10's tweeter may match something else and just has a different part number.

     

    He also recently started selling a new midrange compression driver (A-55G) that supposedly will work in the KLF's as well (according to a post on here anyway).

     

    I had a pair of 20's that I had to reglue due to loose panels. Fairly easy and straightforward. I didn't do any other internal bracing, but I've seen MJ's posts.

     

    Good luck with your setup...

  6. 12 hours ago, zdude said:

    My surround system was front R&L Vintage Cornwalls, C-7 center, RS-7's side surround and KLF 10's rear surround plus HGS18 sub. Sold the Cornwalls, thought we were moving into a condo, we're not. I will replace the front R&L with KLF 30's, but I've been considering selling the RS-7's and KLF 10's to be replaced by KLF 20's. This will be dropping from 7.1 to 5.1 system. What are some thoughts on this and what are the value of the 7's and 10's, both are in excellent condition, bought the 10's years ago when they were still made and they really don't have a lot of use on them.

     

    Keep the 10's and put them in the back surround position with the 20's directly at the side surround to maintain 7.1 channels.

     

    If not then the 20's will do a hell of a job by themselves...

     

    I have no idea on the value of the RS-7. But the 10's... Depending on finish, condition and your location, they could go for $200-$500. When I see them on eBay, they're usually toward the higher end of that range and Craigslist sales tend to be lower. Overall $350 is probably an average price.

  7. 27 minutes ago, Jimi V said:

    It's dull to me. Good size room. I sit about 12' from the center. Dialog seems about the same from all audio. It just seems like it's not projecting. 

     

    Have you tried turning the volume up a few decibels on the center channel only to see if it helps or makes a difference... It may simply need to be a little louder.

  8. 23 hours ago, ccdowenye said:

     

    Only paid 40$ for them. Maybe it's not worth fixing them?

     

    Just my opinion... But it will be easier to find another pair of 1.5's (or 2.5's), for about the same price, if you're patient, than just a pair of woofers.

     

    You might be able to find a replacement woofer from Parts Express...

     

    http://www.parts-express.com/cat/woofers/15

     

    But you'll have to dig through the specs to see if the bolt hole diameters match close enough to fit.

     

    Shipping is such a crap shoot these days. Sorry to hear about the KG4's.

  9. The KG series is going to be the best center match. If you have room, another KG4 would be perfect. The KG2.5 is your next best bet and will probably give you 95% of what you might get from an Academy... Assuming you like the way the Academy would sound between the KG4's.

     

    If you wanted to try an Academy and ended up not liking it, you're probably not going to lose any (or very little) money on resale as they're still very popular.

    • Like 1
  10. It's going to depend on your location, but I've never seen a pair of CF-3's in the $400 range... Particularly a nice looking pair. If they're made in 1994 they may be version 1's (long port tubes - just over 5"), which would command a higher price.

     

    Personally if I could find a pair of version 1's in excellent condition, I wouldn't mind paying up to $600... maybe a bit more for a pair in cherry.

     

    https://web.archive.org/web/20121013072058/http://www.klipsch.com/cf-3

     

     

  11. 1 hour ago, Retep said:

    Hi 

    Im looking into getting myself a pair of K-horns.  I need some help to get the age and type of K-horns im looking at. 

    The picture is from the speakers im looking at.

     

    Can somone help me with some information? 

     

    Is there any knows fault with these? 

     

    Thankful for any help I can get.

    Peter 

    Norway 

     

    IMG_0442-1.jpeg

     

    The letter "N" in the serial number denotes a manufacturing date of 1975.

     

    The "K-C-BR" stands for Klipschorn, Type C (no collar), Birch Raw (unfinished Birch).

     

    Unless they are damaged in some way (drivers or cabinets) there wouldn't be anything inherently wrong with them.

     

    Hope that helps...

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