BusaDude
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Posts posted by BusaDude
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No affiliation...
Looks like a nice pair with original boxes...
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1 hour ago, mattSER said:
Eh, it was just a long shot question. I wouldn't trade the 3-way sound of the KLF for RF-7s anyway.
I wouldn't trade the KLF's for any of the 2-way stuff (including the RF's) Klipsch is selling either... Though I'd love to find some version 1 CF-3/4's.
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3 hours ago, mattSER said:
Is it possible to swap out the KLF-30 woofers with some aluminum cone replacements?
Are there any viable options? Would the crossover need to be modified as well?
What if it were KLF-20s? Would you be able to swap in RF-7ii woofers?
Just something I've been wondering about because I really liked the tight bass of the RF series.
Why?
If you like the bass of the RF series, why not just buy a pair of RF-5's or RF-7's?
And putting an "aluminum cone" driver in a KLF-30 is no guarantee of "tight bass"... as the driver material in a woofer has probably the least effect on the overall sound. And yes, you'd need to mod the crossover assuming you could find a driver to fit/work in the cabinet.
I own KLF-20's (and have listened to the 30's quite a bit) and wouldn't change anything about them. And with appropriate amplifier power, both will thump you in the chest and shake the walls. Maybe that's not the "tight bass" you're looking for?
Just seems like you've already answered your own question, and would be happy with a pair of RF's.
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Help
in Subwoofers
2 hours ago, Erica said:I have the the subwoofer with 2 speakers and an Aux cord. I have all the wires hooked up right and when I play music its very quiet when I turn the volume dial up the volume turns down. I dont know whats going on or how to fix it. I need help fixing it.
It will help if you'll post all of your equipment's brand/model numbers and maybe post a few photos of how you have it connected/setup...
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6 hours ago, erikill said:
Looking for ~$150 given its XLR and monoblock nature.
If I had the extra cash, I'd buy it...
FYI... You may want to update your post with your location and whether you're willing to ship or not.
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On 11/12/2016 at 2:58 PM, efzauner said:
I am not an idiot. Let me see Klipsch.com even if I am not in the USA! Give me a location choice! Stop assuming you are smarter than I am. Stop controlling what I see!
There may be a reason beyond your comprehension why I don't just want to see Klipsch.ca! Yes I am a big Klipsch fan. Well, just a bit less of a fan now! Get it?
Do what customers want, not what marketing wannabees want!
You should try one of the free (or paid) VPN services that are available. You can set your location and have your public IP address show up as being in the U.S. This should get around Klipsch redirecting you to the Canadian version of the website.
I use the free version of SurfEasy on my mobile phone, (https://www.surfeasy.com/en/) and along with their iOS/Android apps they also have a desktop version.
As an example... I live in Texas, but if I set my location to Canada in SurfEasy, then I get the Canadian Klipsch website (see screenshots). But as soon as I set it back to the U.S. I'm back on the regular website.
If you want to get around other IP address restrictions and hide your IP address you can also get the Tor browser (Firefox based - https://www.torproject.org/)
for the desktop or use their mobile app called Orbot.
Either will allow you to set (or hide, depending on your point of view) your "public IP address" (location/country) to get around IP filtering... or websites that track/limit the number of "free" times you visit, before blocking you or routing you to a pay wall.
Hope that helps...
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There should be a toggle switch in between one set of inputs... These are the "IN" going into the sub and coming from the L/R on your receiver. The other set are the "OUT" going to your speakers.
The toggle is a high/low switch that raises the output by 3 dB or so by switching it from 4/8 Ohm.
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Here's Bob Crites website... Lots of information and you can get new crossovers/parts from him as well...
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From what I've read, and it's even mentioned on Bob's site in regards to his Type A/4500 crossover, is that the K-55 is starting to seriously drop off by 5.5-6 KHz.
The KLF 20/30 mid to tweeter crossover is 7 KHz. Seems like that wouldn't be a good match, unless there is a change to the KLF crossover.
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On 11/02/2016 at 8:58 AM, KSlice said:
So I recently inherited a pair of KG2.5 bookshelfs, a KV2 center and a SW-8 II sub. With a little bit of research, I understand that they're not world-beaters, but they're certainly better than the HTiB Onkyos that I currently have and I'd like to keep them going for sentimental reasons. For what it's worth, I also recently upgraded my receiver to a Yamaha RX-V677. Anyways, I have a few questions.
First, is there anything I should do, maintenance-wise, with speakers this old? They've been sitting in my grandpa's TV room playing jazz and old movies for 20+ years. To my ears, they sound good and besides a little dust around the edges, they look good, as well.
Also, could anyone recommend a good pair of surround speakers to match these? I know it might be hard to match up discontinued speakers this old, but I figure its worth a shot.
Last, I currently have my left and right mounted on the wall on either side of my screen. How should I set these up? Stands? Mounts? There are 4 threaded holes on the bottom, but I'm not sure how to find mounts that would match, plus they're pretty heavy.
Thanks for any input. I greatly appreciate it.
They're nice speakers and when crossed over to a subwoofer, they're capable of quite a bit of output.
https://web.archive.org/web/20111127152631/http://www.klipsch.com/kg-2-5#second
As far as surrounds, another set of KG2.5's or the KG1.5 are a timbre match and will work really well. They still show up fairly often on Craigslist and eBay, so finding another pair would be just as easy as the KSF's mentioned above... Unless you prefer a true bipole/dipole as a surround.
For maintenance... Since you mentioned the sentimental value and plan on keeping them. You can get a crossover update/refresh from Bob Crites.
http://www.critesspeakers.com/prices-crossover_repair_kit.html
He may also offer an updated titanium tweeter diaphragm as well. You can either do the updates yourself or send the crossover to him.
If your pair has one of the Oiled veneer finishes, then you should give them a wipedown with some Watco Rejuvenating Oil (available at Home Depot). For the other finishes, just wipe the dust off of them.
They didn't come with threaded mounts in the bottom. So maybe your grandfather added those at some point. You'll have to decide what works for you, but since they have a rear port they shouldn't be flush mounted on the wall.
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14 hours ago, LLoyd D said:
I have a KGSW subwoofer from about 1995 and want to connect it to my Denon AVC1020 amp. the problem is no owners manual and so have no ide of the proper way to connect it. I'll be using JBL L5 speakers as well. Does anyone have an idea of how to connect it? oh and what the mini electrical toggle switch next to speaker wire connectors is for. thanks for any help Lloyd
The KG SW is a passive (no internal power amp) bandpass subwoofer. It has dual 8" drivers, with dual voice coils that fire through the ports.
The switch is to run it as either 4 ohm or 8 ohm (high or low output) according to the old brochure I have (see attached). It was designed to work with the Klipsch KG 1.2, 2.2, 3.2, 4.2 series of speakers... And it has a fixed 150 Hz low pass crossover.
I know nothing about the JBL L5 specs, so I don't know how it would sound crossed over at 150 Hz with those speakers.
You would connect it with the speaker wire coming from the left/right channel outputs from your Denon, to the left/right channel inputs on the KG SW. The KG SW's internal crossover then splits off the high frequencies (everything above 150 Hz) and routes them to the outputs on the KG SW. Your JBL L5's connect to the outputs on the KG SW.
Here's a link to the specs... https://web.archive.org/web/20111129200037/http://www.klipsch.com/kg-sw
I also found an old ad that has some good pictures of the sub here for anyone who is curious... http://www.usedgatineau.com/classified-ad/RARE-KLIPSCH-KG-SW-SUB-SUBWOOFER-BEST-FOR-HERESY-SPEAKERS_27724620.lite?
The KG .2 series brochure is attached as a PDF file...
Hope it works out for you...
Tony
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4 hours ago, jjptkd said:
Thanks for the link, didn't notice the specs before. It would be interesting to know how loud it goes and distortion ratings.
Quick Specs
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16"Driver
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1,500 watts RMS (5,000+ watts peak)Amplifier
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25” H X 21.7” W X 30.9” DDimension
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174.5 lbs.Weight
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15-280 Hz +/- 3 dB (standard mode)Freq. Response
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13-280 Hz +/- 3 dB (extended mode)
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14-360 Hz +/- 3 dB (sealed mode)
If you scroll further down the page it mentions an 82 mm Xmax and 95 mm Xmech...
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On 10/06/2016 at 8:11 PM, reiver62 said:
I have a pair of the original KG1s in oak oil that I bought in the early '90s. I've always been intrigued by their styling as they share the same wood and badge/ grill styling as the Heritage series.
I wanted to compare specs (drivers, etc) with the later models but realized that the KG1 has no spec sheet...the Klipsch page is pretty much blank. Web searches turn up nothing. What the history on it…does it share drivers with the KG2 or was it a “one-off” speaker?
When Klipsch redesigned their web page they deleted the spec pages for most of the older models. Many members have complained, but they don't seem interested in fixing the problem. And if you do a search, all you really find out is that the model you're looking for has been "discontinued".
There is a web archive that has most of the information and you can find links to the speakers and their specs...
https://web.archive.org/web/20120121104208/http://www.klipsch.com/discontinued-speakers
https://web.archive.org/web/20111219031918/http://www.klipsch.com/kg-1
https://web.archive.org/web/20120127040245/http://www.klipsch.com/kg-1-plus
https://web.archive.org/web/20111127152621/http://www.klipsch.com/kg-2
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6 hours ago, rummy said:
If I could post the polaroid, which I don't know how to do, it would have to be pixilated in certain areas, and yes, I think Caligula was the name of the place, cant believe you knew that. The early 80's in Dallas in that area at night time was out of control, I am lucky I lived through it, only to go through the slow process now. Ironic.
Let's just say that on any given Fri/Sat night (late 80's or early 90's for me) I was probably in there having a beer.
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First concert... The Cars, Candy-O tour in Austin, Texas 1980
Most memorable... Seeing Pink Floyd 3 times over the years.
Momentary Lapse Of Reason tour
Nov1987, Reunion Arena in Dallas, Texas
Momentary Lapse Of Reason tour
Apr 28,1988, Texas Stadium in Irving, Texas
The Division Bell tour
April 28, 1994, Texas Stadium in Irving, Texas
Van Halen's free outdoor show
Dec 4,1991 downtown Dallas, Texas
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13 hours ago, LousyTourist said:
I have the option to buy either a set of KG4 or KG4.2 speakers. Other than the KG4 being somewhat wider, and the KG4.2 being somewhat narrower, are there any other attributes that make one more desirable than the other? Both are priced more or less the same, about $300.
I've never heard the KG 4.2 and only briefly listened to the KG 4 ages ago. But I've always wanted a pair of the KG 4's... Just something about the way they look with the dual 8" drivers up front. And they sound pretty good as well.
My guess is that the 4.2, with the Tractrix horn (compared to the exponential horn in the 4) may sound a bit better through the midrange. But I'd still take the KG4.
Here's links to the specs for both...
https://web.archive.org/web/20120202160015/http://www.klipsch.com/kg-4
https://web.archive.org/web/20120928064130/http://www.klipsch.com/kg-4-2
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They're both great speakers, but having owned both, I'd choose the Forte II every time. The Tractrix midrange in the Forte II is the deciding factor. The Forte II is also a touch more sensitive and has a larger rear passive radiator.
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2 hours ago, Coytee said:
Bottom line, how can I shut down ALL automatic video's?
Appreciate any thoughts.
The add-on for Ad-Block that 2point1 suggested above should be installed.
Then check out these links to help disable autoplay and pop-ups...
https://support.mozilla.org/en-US/questions/1103127
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11 hours ago, Thrasher said:
When I heard the KLF30's auditioned originally on an older Rotel, he had them bi-amped and they boomed. Walls shook, etc.
I have tried this with a Denon AVR4311 and my UMC200... no difference. I have to have this system turned way up, nearly up all the way to the point that it's painful. Still, bass response is nearly nil.
Since you mentioned they were originally bi-amped and that you've tried both the UMC200 and the AVR4311 with no improvement...
Is there a possible problem with the jumpers connecting the LF and HF banana plugs? Were they reinstalled correctly? Are they tight, making good contact, no shorts, etc?
Is the internal wiring from the crossover to the woofers correct, not loose, in phase, etc?
If that's not the problem, then you should reset the UMC200 (or the AVR4311) to its factory settings and start over with just the KLF 30's connected. I'd then recommend doing a manual setup in the UMC200 for 2-channel only... set speakers to large (no crossover), no subwoofer, enter distances manually and completely skip the EMO-Q auto calibration.
Then I'd play a 2-channel only source, such as a CD, with some good bass content and see what happens.
If that fixes things, then it was a setup/calibration issue... If not, then I don't know. And you'll probably need someone on site to help out.
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19 hours ago, AccessDenied said:
Thanks for the links!
There's actually a pair of Forte II on CL now not too far from me... $500 obo.
I'll look into these.
Also see a KLF10 for $425. I think from the same seller...
Is that a good deal?Thanks again for the help!
A couple of things to consider regarding price... both the KLF and Forte II are covered in wood veneers. Those that are finished in satin black paint, will be at the lower end of the price scale, as opposed to the oiled walnut, oiled oak, medium oak or mahogany finishes.
So if the Forte II's are in satin black start your offer closer to $400-$425. Of course, a mint pair in Walnut Oil, with no scratches, dings, water marks or issues with the grilles (no holes, snags, broken pegs) would be worth more.
The KLF10 is a really nice speaker as well. And with the dual 10" woofers it will thump right along with the KLF 20 on the low end. However it is a 2 way design...
https://web.archive.org/web/20120101175029/http://www.klipsch.com/klf-10
So it doesn't have a separate midrange and tweeter, and crosses over much higher (2300 Hz) compared to the 3-way designs of the KLF20 and Forte II.
And unless it happens to be finished in Mahogany and in perfect/mint condition (with original boxes) then it's not worth $425 in my opinion. If it's black satin it's closer to the $300-$325 range.
I think nearly everyone would agree that the Forte II is the "better" speaker. And assuming both are in good condition with no issues, it would be my choice between the two. But if both are for sale locally and you can listen to them, and happen to like the sound of the KLF 10, then don't discount it. Particularly if you can get it for $300 or so. And it would still be a huge upgrade from the RB-35.
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23 hours ago, AccessDenied said:
You've got $500.
You want better music audio - wife wants better movie audio.
Needs to be a single system for both.What do you purchase next?
A sub?
Center?
Mains?
New receiver?
The room is roughly 15'x20' if that matters...
Try to be specific!
Personally I'd start upgrading with either the subwoofer or the mains...
Subwoofer - For $500 you can find a good entry level sub that would take a huge load off of the RB-35's. But you have a good size room and a $500 sub may not provide the "impact" you're expecting... compared to something in the $800-$1000 range. But, here are three choices from a couple of well known companies including Klipsch, (with return policies if you change your mind), that would be a good place to start.
http://www.svsound.com/products/pb-1000
Or
http://hsuresearch.com/products/vtf-2mk4.html
Or
http://www.klipsch.com/products/reference-subwoofers#r-112sw
Mains - You could get great "bang for your buck" if you're willing to search for some used floorstanding speakers. Any of these would be a great upgrade compared to the RB-35's and would satisfy both the music and home theater request.
The Forte II is one of the most well respected Klipsch speakers and can literally do it all. You'd be set for quite a while with a pair of these and you can find them in the $500 range...
https://web.archive.org/web/20120202130901/http://www.klipsch.com/forte-ii-floorstanding-speaker
The KLF-20 is another model that will do both equally well. It can provide better low end impact and dynamics than the Forte II (just my opinion having owned both). So it would be a bit better for movies, while the Forte II is smoother and maybe the more musical of the two.
https://web.archive.org/web/20111208093703/http://www.klipsch.com/klf-20
Both of those are older models, but are relatively easy to find on Craigslist and eBay. And they are both 3-way designs with a big Tractrix midrange horn... Which, (again my opinion) I think sounds better than any of the current Klipsch 2-way designs.
If you wanted to stay closer to what you have, then a pair of RF-5's (2-way) from the reference line would be a good upgrade. But I don't see those available on the used market as often...
https://web.archive.org/web/20130128102525/http://www.klipsch.com/rf-5-floorstanding-speaker
If you upgrade your mains, then move the RB-35's to the surround position, and move on to the sub or center channel.
For the record... The KLF-C7 is the center channel match for the KLF-20's and works VERY well with the Forte II.
https://web.archive.org/web/20120111110400/http://www.klipsch.com/klf-c7
Of course there are LOTS of options to choose from, so make sure whatever you get sounds good to you in your room.
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On 09/05/2016 at 6:19 AM, Coytee said:
I do have a chart. It doesn't tell me numerically where I am relative (mainly) to my low point.
I tried the min and max functions but it seems they only sort through 255 data points and I have many more than that.
I already KNOW the numbers, it's not hard to find them so I have cobbed the formula together simply using the high and low numbers. To be frank, I'll probably never reach the high number again (that isn't a major issue) and I'll certainly have warning if I get near the low number again, allowing me to update either as necessary.
I'm just trying to automate things.
For some context:
Column A: date
Column B: weight
Column C: change of weight relative to prior day
Column D: Change of column C as a percent
Column E: "Min weight value" (since I don't have a formula, I have a static number)
Column F: Difference as a percent of my current weight relative to my minimum weight, e.g. as a percent, how much have I gained from the low point
Column G: "Max weight value" (also static number)
Column H: Difference as a percent of my current weight relative to the most I weighed, e.g. as a percent, how far am I down from the high point.
There is no 255 line or data point limit and there's no reason to break out the VBA Macro coding for a relatively simple problem.
At most you'll have 365 daily weights, unless your weighing multiple times daily. And you could break out the yearly figures on individual sheets, both of which are easily handled within Excel's sheets, rows and columns limits.
Anyway, I did this on my phone using the mobile version of Excel. So I couldn't use range names to simply some of the formulas. But it will easily scale to however many rows you need using the absolute cell references in the formulas. And there's no reason to place the Min/Max weights over and over in each each row... So I just put it at the top of the column and used an absolute reference in each line/formula.
I'm pretty sure the spreadsheet does everything you were trying to accomplish. But if not, let me know.
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I have a 2008 Elantra (135,000 miles and still running perfect) and the radio is good for background listening at best. However the CD player and the auxiliary input sound 10 times better.
Broadcast FM music choices here in the DFW are pretty awful, so I mainly listen to the local ESPN channel. But when I want some music I stream KNAC.com through my phone into the car radio and it sounds great.
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Forte II (Oak) $500 - Dallas Craigslist
in Alerts!
Posted
He must have reposted them...
https://dallas.craigslist.org/sdf/ele/5906209429.html