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Schu

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Posts posted by Schu

  1. 2 hours ago, JJkizak said:

    Some of the blocks around here (Ohio) slowly sink or move through the winters.

    JJK

    I undersatnd... here in the desert, pavers of all types are the norm and very stable... more than Concrete even... and way more stable than Asphalt.

    • Like 1
  2. 13 hours ago, JJkizak said:

    What did they put under the blocks for a base?

    JJK

    We have caliche here in Vegas, so they build up a base of caliche then add an inch or two of sand and compact the hell out of it with a machine compactor.

    • Like 1
  3. 4 hours ago, babadono said:

    ahh  the "I" pattern, looks good. I'm having about a 450 ft^2 of my driveway done hopefully starting this week too. If it doesn't rain too much.

    I would have thought you would do it yourself... I just dont have the energy for this stuff any more. That little path is about 350sq ft... not quite a new klipsch hornloaded subwoofer, but probably not far off.

  4. 21 minutes ago, babadono said:

    "the lesson lies in learning and by teaching I'll be taught. There's nothing hidden anywhere, it's all there to be sought"

     

     

    Feed a man and he eats for a day... teach a man how to fish and he eats for a lifetime.

    😛

  5. On 1/21/2024 at 8:47 AM, dtr20 said:

    Everything I was reading about setting a sub crossover was to set it around 10hz higher than what the speakers can do.

    I think that is backwards...

    you want each segment of your speaker setup to begin rolling off 'approximately' 10Hz sooner than the lowest frequency of the next segment...

     

    for instance a subwoofer to a bass bin... the subwoofer would begin rolling off around 40Hz at its upper cutoff, and the Bass Bin would begin it's roll off around 50Hz at it's lower cutoff. set the roll off to 6db... but you can try 12db and 18db very easily to see if the slope is more or less to your liking. The reason you are doing this is because as the two signals cross over, they 'Sum' and cause a bump in response. if you aren't careful, you can cause yourself issues with unnecessary 'peaks' in frequency response at those XO points if they overlap by to much.

     

    this of course is merely generality, your specific needs might be different.

  6. Xconsole is very daunting at first... you're not only learning a new software package, it forces you to look at how you listen to music and what effects SMALL changes in signal control can have on the overall sound... so you have to learn about sound reproduction (in terms of speaker settings) in addition, unless someone is feeding you settings.

     

    it takes time to become proficient, but it's not an impossible task if you have some dedication and are semi-fluent in computer operations.

     

    I've found the Xconsole to be a very powerful tool...

  7. 22 hours ago, Marvel said:

    Give me your thoughts

     

    I for one am worried about longevity and Humidity induced  fragility over time...

     

    I have NO ISSUES with ANY existing forward shifted and scalloped bracing patterns that have existed for a century... I just can't see a need for skelentonizing. with existing bracing, you can see splits in the braces if there is trauma, with skelentonizing, how are you going to inspect all those little X patterns?

     

    I am a simple guy, give me a double or triple ought with a slotted headstock, 1-3/4"+ nut, scalloped bracing and a Pyramid Bridge... everything else are variables... top wood, sides and back and embellishments.

     

    one argument is that Violins have sculpted/skeletonized bridges and who's going to argue with Guarneri...

  8. You're trying to tell me that there is a physical displacement issue between the HF and LF that exacerbates a side wall resonance?

     

    you're joking, right?

    so you can place your hand on the HF during playback and physically feel it vibrate at say 85bd-90db?

     

    they're your speakers to be sure, and you can bolt the HF to the LF for all I care, but don't think your 'discordant interaction' anecdotal experience is anything but... anecdotal.

    • Like 1
  9. Ive also never been quite happy with a passive attenuation set up... and I have tried a few, topping out at a Hattor that was by far the best build quality I have seen for a long time.

    it's not that I couldn't live with one if I needed to, but they all seem to do similar things... that is the reduce the impact and transients. Not terribly, but ever so slightly that it is annoying to me personally... this also makes the sound more  'ruler flat' and less dimensional.

    it's just a personal preference as many of those passive are really great at what they do... 'attenuate' if you catch my drift.

    • Like 3
  10. 12 hours ago, RobMarshall said:

    Would folks please give some very good reasons in favor of buying Klipsch Heresy's...

    Respectfully,

    Robert

     

    They make GREAT rear surrounds if you need something that is approaching Full Range...

    50944266036_13c8e2b34c_b.jpg

     

    And they make a GREAT Center Chanel for the same reasons...

    42173631170_420f7b8844_b.jpg

     

    Of course for the 'Mains' duty, they also excel in more intimate settings because of the nature of their engineering and usage of a Compression Driver/horn-controlled directivity for the meaty part of the frequency range.

     

    There are MANY different Speakers these days, but how many of them will still be around in 10-20 years... I know one that will be for sure.

     

    Get the IV's, you won't be sorry.

    • Like 5
  11. I'd set my sub/svs upper 'cutoff' lower... what kind of slope are you using for that xo point?

    Also, The Xilica 4080 will do a three-way AND a sub.

    Lower is going to have a more pleasing hand off to the Jubilee bass bin imho... as the two signals briefly 'Cross Over', they (hopefully) 'Sum' and if there is to much overlap, they will create a bump in output at that frequency range.

    • Like 1
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