TheSoundBroker

My initial reaction was my 04 Corvette Z-06...which was pretty cool. But, I had to rethink that one since when I just was out of college, I bought myself a 1959 Austin Healey BugEye Sprite. It was slow, unsafe, noisy, environmentally unsound...and too damned much fun [H]

No worries. Danley is a great company to do business with. They are one of the few I've run into that can back up every claim they make, produce totally unique products and are a good bunch of guys...including Ivan.

Um... Don't forget the Danley Labs.

Congrats Chris. That turned out to be a very nice installation. I'm sure you will enjoy the heck out of the system. The DTS-20 is uniquely suited to blending in with large Heritage since it is also horn loaded and won't compress like most subs will. You can let loose with the Belles/K-horns/LaScalas and not worry about the sub keeping up. And as you can see...it isn't actually that hard to integrate into a room.

KL-7800's retail at $1000 each. KS-7800's retail at $750 each. Yes, they are every bit as good as they claim.

Does that store have the RB-81's? If so, you may want to consider using an RB-81 for the center as it is the better tonal and dynamic match for the RF-82. I also recently did a system with three RB-81's up front behind an acoustic screen in a smallish dedicated cinema. It sounded amazingly good.

Depends on the subwoofer. In the case of the afforementioned RT-12D (which IS an EXCELLENT subwoofer), there is an input and an output. You hook the input to the LFE/Subwoofer output of your preamp, and the output runs to the second RT-12D. This also allows you to link the room correction output to each of the subs. With many other subs, you split the output of your Subwoofer output with a Y-connector and run a separate cable to each.

Which surrounds you use comes down to coverage and seating position. You want to pick the surround that gives you the most even surround coverage to all the seats. For a narrow seating area (3 or less) that is not too close to the rear wall, monopoles work well with the RB-81 having the best dynamic match to the fronts as you suspected. For a wider seating area, the RS series surrounds will give you greater coverage without holes (RS-62's). If you have more than 1 row of seating, then you want both in a 7.1 setup to cover both rows of seats evenly.

I've sold Maggies and owned just about every model from MG-2's, to SMG's, to MG 3.6's, to MG-20's. I'm a big planar fan going back decades. Get the Heritage. Far far superior for movies.

A few observations... RB-61's are a bit light for a room of that size. I'd rather see you into the RB-81 with either an RC-62 center or a third RB-81 as a center. This will give you more mid-bass power up front and more punch. If you plan to do a video projector, then go to an acoustic screen like an SMX and use a third RB-81 as the center placed behind the screen...you are absolutely guaranteed perfect tonal matching across the front that way. RW-10D sub...again, good sub, but a bit light for that size space. Spend the extra $ and get into an RT-10D. Either that or wire for a seat shaker system like a Buttkicker. They probably meant R5650C's for the rears. Go with the CDT version, they allow for more precise aiming. Just out of curiousity, why do in-ceiling in a room that size and why not wire for a 7.1 setup? Is there something architecturally that precludes you from going on wall or in-wall? If this room is for home theater use only, have you budgeted for room acoustics? You'll need them because your room dimensions are pretty symmetrical and you will have some strong nodal issues. Bass traps at a minimum. AVR-1907...nice little amp, but probably the first thing you'll upgrade. Spend less on the electronics and more into the speakers initially, you'll be happier that way. You'll want more ooph in the future but should serve well for now. You also may want to look at the Onkyo and Pioneer offerings.

Yup. (Just nodding my head with a big *** grin on my face). [] Wait until you get it broken in and tuned...then the fun really starts. [6]

Acoustic treatments. No question. The room is the single most important element in the sound system by far. Acoustics first, followed by electronics.

No no no no no... You need a sub so powerful it will knock the WALL down. Then and only then, when you are standing in a pile of rubble surrounding you will you truly know bass nirvana. []

I'd propose an alternative. Instead of doing a large custom cabinet...do a screen wall up front. You have a large storage unit to the left of the front where an equipment cabinet could be recessed in. Then up front you could put a screen wall with an Acoustic screen, the THX Ultra 2 L/C/R (at the proper height) and the subs. Everything would be hidden, super clean clean and this would cost you far less (no custom cabinet) and give you not only a far larger screen, but better sound and dialogue localization. With an SMX acoustic Screen (1.2 gain) and a projector like the Panasonic PT-AX100U, even with the room lights up, the image will still be more than usable and if you want anybody to see the image from the bar area, a 65" set simply won't cut it. If you dimmed the room lights even 25%, which is perfectly fine to still see, your contrast will be okay. And when it is time to really watch a movie...no comparison. With a room that size, it is unquestionably the way I'd go. I'd also seriously re-think your seating layout. Putting people along the side wall is definitely not the way to go.

Just goes to prove, there ain't no substitute for horsepower! Nice sounding amp, just a real pain to move around and absolutely HAS to have a 20 amp line to perform at it's best. The newer balanced version is even better than the earlier versions.

I'm assuming you are being facitious. If not...do a bit of research my friend. You pshaw one of the absolute state of the art bass reproduction products on the planet. It is impractical as heck, but the technical specs and sound quality are VERY formidable...best I've ever experienced (and I've been doing this for a LONG time). For a truly large space, there are few, if any, that are better. Oh, and congrats on the Ultra 2 subs. Every time I've set them up, after they were tuned in, we've just sat back and marvelled, particularly with music. They are sweet!

But wait...don't you hear it? Whispering in your ear? What about the Danley Labs DTS-20... It is calling you, bekoning you with 7 1/2 feet of sheer gutwrenching fury. All from one of the acknowledged gurus of LFE destruction. It even has a new internal port design that gives it 12 hz extension now. You know you want one...you know you want to pick up the phone and call me... []

A LARGE room requires a LARGE sub. Danley Labs DTS-20. A single will easily fill a 10000 ft3 + space. Equivalent Ultra 2 sub setup would be 6-8. Definitely the king of the hill in UberSubs. One client of mine replaced a Velo HGS-18 and says the Danley is just getting going where the Velo would run out of steam. As long as you can live with the size...which ain't small, there is none better.

In my experience...no. It will *work*, but you won't get anywhere near what that system is capable of. I normally hit them with about 300 a side on the mains and 150 on the back to really wake them up. Otherwise, they'll sound good...but they won't scare you. As for the Outlaw setup...look at doing the preamp, but look into pro amps instead. A lot more bang for the buck. You can do 5 of the Behringer A-500 amps run monoblock at about 400 a channel for about $1K. Yeah, okay, it will take up more rack space, but you'll get beucoup headroom.

The older 7 series had a larger compresssion driver, but the newer horn design is a better horn design and is smoother with lower distortion up top along with more extension. Thus, the RF-83's being smoother than the RF-7's even though they also use a smaller compression driver. RB-81's are a good sounding loudspeaker. I've set up several theaters using trios of them for LCR behind AT screens with great results.

I've done two setups with RT series subs (10 and 12) and was able to get flat in room response down to 20 with plenty of headroom in both spaces for the clients. I did have some leeway on both setups to move the subs around to find the sweet spot. The auto EQ function does help since it allows you to find a spot that loads the room well and then compensates for any large scale peaks that location might have. Not a substitute for a lot of hours with a BFD and a test suite...but darned impressive considering it takes all of a minute. Also, as mentioned before, the integration of those subs is darned impressive. Right out of the box, they achieved a more seamless transisition into the mains than any other subs I've played with (the older RSW-12 came close). The last setup I did where we got response down to 17 had the subs rolling up into a set of PMC DB-1 transmission line monitors which are super fast in the bottom end and don't take kindly to any sub that isn't capable and smooth up top. After a bit of position fiddling, we simply could NOT identify the location of the sub. Darned impressive. The space is a pretty large area (big beach condo, probably 800 ft2 in the main area where the sub is located). Obviously, having a common wall, we didn't need 120 db of output, but there was more than enough output for reasonable to high listening levels.

I think there may only be two subs out there that may hit the "brown note" with enough output power to cause distress (or at least have your neighbors running out into the streets crying "HOLY SH*T! []) One is Bruce Thigpen's rotary woofer. 2 hz capability if memory serves me correctly so it should have the output at 7-9hz. The other is Tom Danley's REALLY big subwoofer, the Sonic Boom Cannon (131 DB at 3 hz outdoors). The Ananda looks like a good woofer, but I wonder how much output it will have at those frequencies. I can hook up a Bose cube (only if you PAY me) and get 7 hz...but the output won't be audible. Actually it would be amusing to do that just to see if we can blows the bose [6] I give it 5 seconds.

Hey guys, Remember...when you are ready for your DTS-20's...give me a shout! Canadians are also welcome since I'm only 30 min south of the US/BC border. Kevin The Sound Broker

I have an ICF home and an ICF theater building. I find the acoustics are pretty darned close to drywall but with a bit harder sound untreated. Probably depends on what they use to surface the ICF. In my case, when I bought the theater building, the original builder had the inside stucco'd []. I ended up firring the walls out with 2 x 4's, put R19 and drywall in followed by acoustic treatments on the surface. I now have a fairly even room that tends more towards dead than live. As mentioned before, ICF is also extremely quiet...not to mention quite energy efficient.

Your dealer should be able to order a replacement part easily thru the Klipsch Parts Dept.