Scp53

its gonna end with the RF7's for sure. your slowly going to persuade your self to get something better. just buy the 7's

wheres the cone/castframe/etc? that motor is huge. Ive stubbled upon it before but I forgot about it.

how much price difference? with out question the 35 is obviously better-Ive never done a direct comparo of the 25 vs 35. remember you only buy it once. I say if you got the $$$ go for the 35's for sure. scp53

I think you've just had bad luck with these klipsch. . maybe you should go to home audio from klipsch? I have klipsch for home in 2 rooms- very nice. very loud,clean, dynamic, etc. sound. no problems. EVER! look around on the forum in the all sections. you'll see very few people with problems using Klipsch. for the money Klipsch rules. Ive looked at a lot of speakers- nothing is better for the price. NOTHING. if you want lasting sound get a receiver and 1-2 prs of klipsch and a sub. you'll be very happy. are you bent on having small speakers? do you use them for the computer only? Im just throwing out ideas figuring you don't want promedia any more. scp53

looks complete. just make sure you get a good driver. this is ultimately what it comes down to. you can buy/build everything perfectly but if the driver is crap then you sound is still crap. make sure if you consider a Kicker sub that it will work for a home cab. I have never done any car audio but have heard some good things about Kicker. so if the driver was built for non-mobile use then it should be fine- figuring its comparable to the daytons you've looked at. scp53

how'd you break it?? I bet you could make your own. you could call klipsch though. they might be able to help. or else buy a really cheap pod on ebay and pull the nob off...

those arn't too bad to use for speakers if you like chrome/black. good for showing the drivers while still pretecting them. because with regular covers theres fabric and it doesn't allow you to see the speakers.

actually the 1000 wt is what you want. because its 8 ohm speakers- you'll get 500 wts from that 1000 wt amp. and a 250 4ohm amp won't be near enough.

those are pretty decent drivers. you'll need to hook up some type of tester and find the load. some one else on the forum would know how to do this... how much money are you planning to spend on a amp? $150-$200-$500??? if you ever plan on using the sub more seriously for HT you'll want a bigger amp. given the specs of the drivers a 500 wt would probably be sufficient. scp53

the only difference is the longevity of the drivers. a down firing one is probably not going to last as long as a front firing one of equal quality. this is not a fact though... more of IMO. good luck with buying the PE sub.

friggin double postin again... my post is below

is price a concern. the plate amp will probably be cheaper...

double post

http://www.intellexual.net/bose.html masterpp read this article.

I second your call. thats a much better sub than a POS sony.

just for the sake of knowing/asking/curiosity: what is the best sub that can be built(DIY)/bought for under 5,000? that can be good for ht and music. can play well on higher notes to very deep bass notes- and its tight for all of it. would a 15" Tumlet Subwoofer Driver from Adire audio be impressive with the correct amp/cab?

do you want a plate amp? those are the only amps that I know of that have phase control, crossover control, level, etc. if you want a very well featured plate amp look at these at partsexpress.com: kilowt one:http: //www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=300-808 500 wt one: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=300-806 one thing that they have that many other sub amps(the ones Ive seen) don't have is a full parametric bass EQ- this will allow you to tune it to the room and your tastes. If you would go after one of these I d get the 1000 wt one. those peerless probably can take 300-500wts so that amp would be better. if nothing else it would give you headroom and you won't have to over work the amp. what is the is the ohm rating on those drivers? how are they wired? goodluck scp53

I have the 10 inch titanic kit. really nice. amp a little weak though- clips on some music because it was burned "hotter". I can't say how the 15 would match with the chorus's. the bass on my sub is very tight. even on deep technical passages- as long as the amp doesn't clip. maybe you should consider making your own: look at this sub driver http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=299-665 it is superior to all of the titanics. has dual spiders, mag is twice the size, bigger vc, more pwr handling, cast frame which is about the same compared to the titanics, etc,etc. this is one heck of a deal, if you have any interest in this sub or this one: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=299-660 buy it NOW. the box sizes aren't even that big. you could use the same amp as the one for the 15" titanic(sells seperate for 400 and is 500msrp-this is a nice amp) but just buy that really high performnace 12 or 15 and build a cab. good luck.

get the 1000 wt one. you only buy it once- 300 vs 400 dollars. with that 1000 wt one, if you don't even use close to its ability- at least you won't be working it hard and it will not get as hot either. and that DVC- its that monster one correct? the one that is $500-600 msrp. and once you purchase it call PE and get the box dimensions. actually call before you order- because if you build a ported cab buy the port when you buy the driver. and even if you go sealed you'll need foam or some other filling- this kills sound waves coming from the back of the woofer. scp53

do any of you know people that act like they know something about audio but really don't?(im sure we all do). i mean people that think about subs as: how much power does it handle and what size is it. that kind of crap. or think of speaker quality only as: how loud will it play and is it distortion free. I could tell you so many things that Ive heard that is so wrong. almost makes me want to cry. any of you had in stories of people like this? from people that think bestbuy sells the best speakers to those that like bose. to those that think a 150 dollat HTiB is 600wts like it says on the box. scp53

I e-mailed SVS about using a Samson amp with one of their passive subs and they wondered why when I could get one of their powered ones that would have the following advantages: "The powered subs have subsonic filters, 40-150hz crossover control, 0-180 phase control, and high level inputs." Now, he did say I could use my receiver for the crossover function (although I don't know how yet, I have a Denon 3801) but are the subsonic filters and 0-180 phase control necessary? ------------------------------------------------------------------- phase and subsonic filters are necessary. the phase makes sure your speakers sound get to you the same time the sub sound does. if they don't, noise cancelation occurs- which means less bass output. and a subsonic filter just makes sure no really deep freq come and destroy your driver and/or amp. this is std on a regular plate amp- the phase,subsonic filter, level, crossover point,etc. I went and scoped out some MDF today at Lowes. It was extremely heavy and definitely unlike any particle board I had ever seen. I can see why it is so good for building speakers. It certainly needs some external casing like an 1/4" birch or smaller to make for a beautiful finish but it will be one heavy beast! The lumber was probably 60-70 lbs for one sheet and the driver weighs another 30+ lbs! Add a few lbs here and there and it could easily weigh over 100lbs! -------------------------------------------------------------- good you went to look at mdf. However, it isn't building the box that has me concerned, it's all of this cross-over, phase control, etc. that has me concerned. It makes me think I should just go with the internal amp that has those gadgets built in, instaed of the Samson. Would that be your suggestion as well? -------------------------------------------------------------- I would suggest this. maybe you won't have to put it in the actual sub cab- just make a board/box to hold the plate amp buy it self- this way the sub won't rattle it. it would look a little odd but hey, if theres no rattle its all good. parts express has one like ive mentioned. one is 500 and the other is 1000 wts into 4 ohms. they have many good features- some not even found on the klipsch or svs subs(a couple of these arn't- one I typed next to): # High power Class AB output stage # Patented tracking downconverter power supply # Full parametric bass EQ-----------------------------this one feature not found on other sub amps- it allows you to tailor your sound to the room and what you like. # Phase reversal switch # Auto On/Off # Advanced soft clip circuitry # Toroidal power supply transformer # Power output: 512 watts RMS @ 8 ohms, 1024 watts RMS @ 4 ohms # S/N ratio: 98 dB (A-weighted) # Low-pass crossover: 30 - 200 Hz, 24 dB/octave # Auto On/Off I think this will make you a lot happier than that samson. with out other seperates for that samson- it is not very useful. you need a eq for sure and some thing that can control the phase too. heres the link-http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=300-808 its the kilowt one- thought this is more what you want. by the way have you ordered a sub driver(s) yet? better jump on some of those deals! scp53

tell us what speakers you are using and if they are digital or analog. also tell us what sound card you are using... scp53

buy thaaaaaaaaaaaaaat!!!!!! . that is one nice driver. get it. NOW! just one. no...hm. try two. actually because its such a deal get three. just kidding. one of those should be fine. if you can afford it get two though. you sub would blow by many other subs that have 15(s) in them. and it should, heck the driver is 600 friggin dollars. yeah, I can see why you like the description. I do too. . forget the titanics. get one of those! probably the 12. it will be tighter and has a lower fs. fs is resonate freq. scp53

Thanks for all of the helpful advice/information. Now, let me ask another question. If I bought two of those 12" DVCs could I place them in the same box, send a channel from the amp to each woofer and double the output of the subwoofer or would it be better to just build two boxes? D ---------------------------------------------------------------------- you could put them in the same box. Im not sure as to if they should be in the same chamber though. if you would but them in the same box, put them in seprate chambers. which "DVC's" are you talking about? those ones on a bargain? or the ones from dayton that cost $120-130? tell me the part number so I can look it up on PE's site. as far as "doubling the output", by no means can you double the output or even increase the output given the same power. all you would be doing is taking the power and splitting it so that each woofer works less. as far as two boxes, Id say stay with one. especially if you use the same amp for both(same channel of amp). you can have phase problems- one sub can cancel out the other. if I were you the first thing you need to decide is what subwoofer driver(s) you are going to use. and if you want those 550 msrp high performance 12" driver(s), you'd better jump on that. you ain't gonna see them around for very long. Im mean by them NOW! that is a deal. can't speak to how good they are but by looking at the specs and the price, there gonna smoke a titanic- at least in some ways. scp53

sounds like your connection from the speaker terminals(the ones right on the "bad" woofer) to the voice coil are not connecting well. if this is the case(sounds like thats the problem) then all you can do is get a new one. scp53