CECAA850

Now I'm confused. I though that YPAO only autocalibrates SPL, and that's why I responded like I did. If it does some sort of EQ, than my response was off base. If your speakers are timber matched, I don't understand what he's trying to accomplish.

Welcome to the forum! I use the RB-35's for my rear surrounds in my system. The jump from having only side surrounds to side AND rear surrounds was a noticeable improvement for me. I used bookshelves due to placement issues. They worked out great.

The first thing you need is an SPL meter. RatShack has them at a reasonable price. Use the meter and your receivers test tones to set the levels for each channel. Make sure the SPL (dB) is the same for all channels at the seated position. If you want, you can buy a disc like Avia to help you. With your receiver set on "0" calibrate all channels to 85dB using the Avia disc tones.

With the new Reference line about to debut, I'm afraid that this will be the first of many such threads. IF YOU WANT A REFERENCE SPEAKER (current 7 series) GET IT NOW!

The best thing to do would be to get an SPL meter and disc with sine waves and measure the output af the sub and speakers. Then you can properly calibrate the sub to the system. No more guessing. You can also tell if you have a problem with output or placement.

If your receiver can do a "phantom" center, then get a sub next, followed by a center then surrounds. If it can't, then get a center then sub followed by surrounds.

I would place the tweeters farthest from the closest wall or ceiling to avoid reflection issues.

What type sub do you have to keep up with those 7's?

Dean could tell you if the 35's would benefit from the mod, I don't know. Basically what he had me do was buy one 10 Ohm resistor for each speaker. You then take the crosover out (behind the speaker lugs) and find the proper 2 Ohm resistor on the lower board. You then solder the resistors together in parallel and put it back together. That's it. There is a NOTICEABLE difference (improvement) in the "listenability" of the speaker at louder levels. I had a lot of "new to this kind of thing" type questions that Dean answered very clearly and patiently. He could well have addressed my questions over my head but he answered everything in a manner that was easy for me to understand. The easiest way to contact him is deang@crossoverupgrades.com

How big is your room, cu./ft.?

I posted this in the Mods section but it applies here too. Carl http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/659565/ShowPost.aspx

THANKS DEAN! I've just completed the resistor upgrade in my RF-7's and RC-7. Total time invested in each speaker was about an hour. Total monetary investment per speaker $1.00. The look on my face when I fired them up............. priceless! All the detail and precision that was there originally is STILL there. The fatigue experienced at louder than normal volumes for extended periods is gone. I can only imagine what the full blown mod would sound like. I just wanted to publicly Thank Dean for his help in guiding me through this process. Soldering on a set of crossovers was a little intimidating at first but was really quite simple. It helps to know that you have a resource to turn to in case you screw up. People like him are what make this forum so great. Carl

I think that the 2 meter number referred to the heigth of the "wall" of sound hitting you. Basically the heigth of the sub.

If you had pressed the down arrow next to the "yes" response, you would have seen the "no" selection. I did just that and still there is not a "No" option just yes but hey that is ok, let him buy them. Hey Tom, sometimes they work great, other times the "funny" can be out-thunk. FWIW, I got it. ZOOM, over my head at the time. DOH!

If you had pressed the down arrow next to the "yes" response, you would have seen the "no" selection.

The reset we had to do involved cycling the lock/unlock switch on the top and holding the buttons you mentioned. The normal reset procedure outlined in the manual wouldn't get it done.

Why not?

120 dB at 25 Hz hardly seems like a world beater. It is however very impressive looking.

My son locked his up Christmas morning when attempting to charge it. He hooked it up to the computer BEFORE installing the software on the computer. Big no-no. It took me about 30 minutes of looking around the Apple web site to find out how to unlock it. There is a very specific sequence of things you must do before it will unlock. Follow the directions exactly and it will unlock.

Thanks all. I'll give it a try. Carl

A remodel is an ideal time for an IB. They don't get any more musical than that and take up "0" floor space. You're going to be in the walls anyway.................

I have a question for those of you that dabble in old amps. I have a JVC integrated amp at home that I bought new in the mid 70's. It's built like a tank weight wise and rated at 60wpc. I currently have it set up in my sons room. He's using it to test the structural integrity of the sheetrock walls with a pair of Cerwin Vegas. Did I mention the fact that he was 16? My question is "what's the best way to clean the contacts on the volume knob"? The amp plays fine unless you're adjusting the volume, then SCRAAAAATCH untill you stop turning the knob. Thanks in advance, Carl

Erik, congrats. What model did you get?

They're close......... http://www.ascendantaudio.com/

Waiting.........