bertsummerkids

I use a B&K 200 watt per channel amp for my rf7s and noted much improvment in power and quality than the 3802 denon i was using before. I still use the denon 3802 for center and surround duties and couldnt be happier with this setup. I dont think getting an isolated amp for center and surrounds would make much of a difference for money it would cost.

exactly the same except the iis are internally wired with monster cable.

i have rf7 mains and use my rf3s and surround sides and my rs3s for surround back for 7.1 sound. the rf3s sound awesome for home theater and stellar for dvd audio playback. i think using your rf7s for surround sides for music and home theater would sound awsome and the rs3 would be a great surround back. my rf3s sounded much better than the rs3s for surrounds for HT and music.

I currently am using a B&K 200.2 for my RF7s and a denon 3802 as my preamp and to run my RC7 and my RF3 surrounds. My question is would the rotel 1075 which is 120watts per channel for 5 channels be worth the money over my current denon for center and surrounds. and would there be a noticeable difference between the rotel 1075 versus the B&K 200.5 which is 200 watts per channel for the center and surround duty. is this over kill and would using the denon as center and surround be sufficient

never trust UPS to come into contact with your speakers if you ever want to see them in one piece again! these morons were to suppose to take my rc3 center channel which they destroyed when i sent it ebay customer. remember this is a small 30 pound speaker in a small box that they were supposed to pick up. they ended up taking my rf7 that was in the garage when i was not home and left the rc3 in the middle of my garage. his order said that the package he was to pick up was small and about 30 pounds, but instead took a box that was over 100 pounds and 4-5 times the size. what kind of idiot can mistake a 30 pound box for a 100 pound box and not suspect something is wrong. a complete lack of common sense. long story short, by the time they found this speaker it was auctioned off in phoenix, and completely destroyed with the cabinet in 3 pieces and all the drivers completely detached from the speaker. it took 6 months to get resolution and just finally received my check yesterday. beware of UPS and never use to ship speakers you value

which is the better speaker for home theater and music the RF7s or the KL 650 THX ULTRA 2. Is one better than the other for music or HT. the 7's have the 10 inch drivers vs the 6.5 inch of the 650's. also which is the better center channel between the RC7 and the kl 650. it is hard to believe anything topping the RC7's.

2 of my all time favorites : swingers- vince vaughn, jon favreau. gut wrenching funny very bad things- christian slater. was so funny i was crying the whole movie rush hour series are pretty damn funny also.

have you properly calibrated and adjusted the speaker levels using SPL meter and calibration disc. If not your center may need to be increased a few levels to compensate for overpowering fronts

I currently have RF7, RC7, RF3s for my surround sides. I am using a B&K 200.2 for the mains and using the denon 3802 for preamp and for powering the center and surrounds. My question is would it be worthwhile to get a 3 channel amp such as a 200.3 to power the center and the surround sides or just let the denon handle those channels. would it be a noticeable improvment for the $1000 the amp will cost.

The best setup that I found out to be is using direct monopole speakers such as RF3s or RB-75 bookshelfs for surround side duty, which could be used also for DVD-A sound. For multichannel audio the RS7 or other WDST speakers are not nearly as strong as the direct radiating speakers. I would then use your RS7s for surrouond back for 6.1 or 7.1 duties. there was a head on comparison in, I think audioholic magazine, that compared monopole versus WDST speakers for surround back and surround sides. They found that the best setup was using direct monopoles as surround sides and using 2 of the di or bipoles for surround back duties. Another popular option is using RF3s as surround side A which can be used for multichannel audio and use RS7 as surround side B which can be used for movies and use RS7 1or2 as surround back. This option is better if your prefer the WDST speakers for movies. Good luck, hope this helps

May God be with you when trying to collect a claim from UPS. I have had 2 miserable experiences with them and I am convinced that their protocol is too make the whole process extremely complex and lengthy so the consumer says screw it and drops it. I also shipped a Rc3 center channel in double box and adequate packing. the speaker center tweeter was snapped off at the horn and was loose inside the speaker box. The box was intact so the only way a force could be created to cause this damage is by extreme mishandling. After months of "investigations" and routing it through probably half a dozen of employees I finally collected claim . If it ended here then it probably wouldnt be so bad but this was only the beginning. The claim on the rc3 was closed so it was to my surprise that 3 weeks later they came to my house when I was not home looking to pick up this damaged speaker. My garage door was open and it just so happened that I had a pair of brand new RF7s still in the box that I just bought the day before that i had not brought in the house yet. The moronic UPS driver was convinced that this RF7 speaker was the one he had to pick up so had one of my friends who was at home at the time sign it believing the UPS guy that this was the speaker to be picked up. As you know the rc3 weighs in at about 30 pounds and change while the massive RF7 with packing is probably over 100 pounds and is the size of refrigerator. The UPS driver obviously lacked any kind of common sense to realize that there was a massive descrepancy in size and weight and took the speaker. luckily my dealer replaced it with a new one and i had it in less than a week and now i am in the claims process to get reimbursed the amount so I could give the dealer the cost of that speaker. Yes you guessed it, UPS completely destroyed the speaker that was brand new in Klipsch packing. Both panels of the front and side where completely separated so basically the speaker cabinet was broken apart with the woofers and tweeters completely separated from the speaker. This process of claim is in the 5th month now and is still going through channels of their internal protocol B*S*. They dont even have the decency to expedite this process even though they were at complete fault and has never apologized once. I will never use UPS again and since this happened I have heard numerous cases of people with similiar experiences. The bottom line- use FEDEX

Just wanted to get your feedback on whether it would be worthwhile upgrade to buy a high quality cd player versus my existing denon 1600 dvd player for 2 channel audio for cds. Would there be a significant improvement in cd audio quality or would it just be a marginal change. Do most of you have a dvd player and cd player or do you let your dvd handle everything rf7, rc7, rf3, rs3, svs pc+20-39, denon 3802, B&K 200.2, denon dvd 1600

some of the recordings by AIX records are the 192 KHz recordings and sound pretty awesome. Just make sure your preamp can recognize that frequency since most receivers can only handle 96 KHz. Go to AIXrecords.com. I think that is the website. otherwise do AIX search on google

the test tones that i refer to are the pink noise signals that are found on avias disc or your avr receiver

The best way to calibrate the speakers is the following. Set your master volume to 0 on your receiver. Make sure you turn down the individual speaker settings because when set from the factory this is very loud sound level. Then begin your test tones and set each speaker to 75 or 85 if you use Avia. At this level your fronts will probably be at about -7 or -8. once they all match the same spl then your system is calibrated. the reason you turn your master to 0 is so that you know when you turn your volume to 0 then you are playing movies at the intended reference levels that give your speakers the best sound and balance. for example if you set up as above and play the movie at lets say -10 then the surrounds or center may sound not sound as in tune with the mains. whether you use 75 or 85 for reference depends on which test disc you use. Avia is at 85 and video essentials is at 75 hope this helps

dragonfyr, so in your opinion which units out there would satisfy these conditions for the short term need. does the belkin PF 60 or the monster 5100 units do this.

I am currently in the power conditioner dillema and trying to decide if using one is worth the money. The main question is what you guys are using for your high power current power amps. Are most people plugging straight into the wall or you using some sort of power conditioner. I know that some power conditioners can impede current flow and may not be the best bet. some conditioners have high current outlets but wondering if the wall is still a better choice. any input would be great

I have an option of getting a 125.2 B&K amp that i want to use for my rc7. I wanted to get a 200.1 mono to run this but does any one know if the 125.2 2 channel would be as good. You cant bridge the 2 channel but can you use both channels to both sets of binding post on the speaker and is doing this of any benefit. Is this same as biamping since you are using 2 discrete channels on the one speaker. and last, what would be the power going to the speaker, is it 250 watts since both channels are used. would it be better to get a 2 channel such as a rotel that can be bridged and use that instead.

I had the same thing happen to me when I had my RC-3 shipped. the horn is attached to the tweeter driver by 3-4 small srews and nut assembly. The screws are what snapped in half so part of the screw was still in the horn and no way to get it out. Have to replace the whole assembly which Klipsch charged me $48.00 shipped. By the way using electrical tape around the site where it snapped off worked well for me until my assembly arrived. Just keep wrapping tape around the site until unit is held together firmly .

My system consists of B&K 200.2 amp, denon 3802 pre, klipsch sub, etc... the question is are the so called power conditioners better than the home theater strips you can get for 100-150 dollars. If so which is the best one for my needs. the ones I have been considering are the Monster hts 5000, Belkin PF60 and the Panamax M5100, 5300. Has anyone had experience with these items good or bad. Monster seems to be the most popular one but also the most expensive. I can get the other 2 for about 200-300 dollars

any thougts on which is the better sub between these 2. would it be advisable to use the kw 120 in a reference 7 set up. does the kw 120 dig as low as the SVS subs. also which series is the better series for HT - the reference 7 series or the ultra THX 2 series and what are the differences.

I am currently using RF7 series speakers, denon 3802 AVR and a B&K 200.2 to run my mains. RC7 center, RF3 surrounds, RS3 backs. I wanted to upgrade to a preamp and another amp for the center and surrounds, but was wondering if the cost to do this would justify the improvment in sound. the 3 options are as follows: 1. leave system as is with the denon and the 2 channel amp(running the mains). the denon used to power the other 5 speakers 2. get additional B&K 200.3 to run the center and surrounds and use the denon to run the backs 3. ditch the denon and get B&K 200.5 and a B&K 50 preamp. obviously the last option would be best but also a lot more cash. would the cost of #2 or #3 justify the improvment in sound. any input would be great.

I have a RF7 setup and using a B&K 200.2 and soon a 200.3 amp. I have a choice between a B&K ref 30 or a ref 50 ( for much more money). I know the processing of the 30 can be upgraded to the 50, so the main difference is that the 50 has balanced inputs and the 30 does not. My interconnects are only 2 feet long and i dont experience any feedback or speaker or amp hum or any noise. so is there any advantage of using the 50 in my setup and is there better sound quality with the 50 compared to the 30.

how old is the sub, and is under any warranty. was it purchased from authorized dealer

I have RF7 being driven by B&K 200.2 amp with a denon 3802 preamp. I also have RC7 center and RF3 as surrounds. I have an option of getting a B&K 200.5 or sunfire cinema grand 5 channel . which would be the better amp . is it advisable to use different brands of amps or better to stay with the same brand for matching reasons