brennyE

lol haha they dont sound that bad at all! sure not in the way that "oh wow these speakers are so revealing" and "wow I have never heard that in this song before" but do you really think I am getting these speakers for sound quality. I can listen to semi descent sound without tearing my hair out and running for the klipsch.

why big peavey towers??? why not??? I am moving to the perfect place to play alot of music, very loud (note the party sub project) we are going to have 6acres to mess around with and our family throws alot of parties (me included).......and the fact tht the peaveys are priced right!

yeh why are PA woofers designed to cut off so high? is it to save excursion for more hearable bass? Im just asking cos im looking into buying a pair of big Peavey towers (4 15" woofers all up and is only good for about 60hz)

lol thats still very very big! and that is also one monster 18" sub! what about 40mm excursion?

1000 ausie dollars is about 790 american dollars.

IMO subwoofers as they are at the moment (cone sweeping back and forth) is a very ineffiecient way to play sub 25hz (or so) material. I meen c'mon if you wanted a sub to play down to 10hz flat with no gain, you would need a MONSTER woofer, probably multiple monster woofers, huge watts to EQ this things with and last but not least the box would have to be huuuge! so when you think about it, 5hz is an octave lower than 10hz so that it requires 4 times the excursion to play at the same level! I think for home theatre in the end something will be designed (like the LF fan but more practical) just to do verrry low stuff. DARKSIDE: I agree with you that approx 100db at 5hz would be impossible with that driver! The driver cant move enough air, and the resistance would be so high at 5hz (with an FS of 34hz from memory) it wouldnt stand a chance.

awwwwwww when I was 15 I had to pay all my audio gear off via my supermarket job (with very ummmm working class wages) I wish I had a grandma who would fork out for a subwoofer!

Get the subwoofer!!! [6]

All my subwoofers always seem to end up at almost exactly $1000 (ausie cash mind you).......I just cant bring myself to spend more on LF.

cheers jay

hmmm I heard a pair of B&W 600 series (the tower speaker ones with the 2 7inch bass drivers......forget the model) with the same reviever I have at home (HK3480) and I must say running of the HK (a budget reciever) they sounded great! very detailed and easy to listen to. But they lack any real power when you want things to go loud. B&W are my second fav brand to Klipsch.........Both very different sounding speakers.

Its not a crazy topic at all because it seems this forum has been flooded full of questions regarding the upgrade of the crossovers in the old and new klipsch reference series. but as said a crossover upgrade for a brand spanking new speaker will not make an amazing difference (if you do make a difference it will most likely be for the worst!) most crossover upgrades in my understanding are performed on older speakers like the Klipsch heratage line, were with the older models some of the components on the crossover like the caps, may go bad with time and shift in value because of degradation. The RF-82 is a great sounding speaker, and IMO no passive crossover upgrade will be able to make it sound noticably better.

Yeh maybe im just boring but I like my speakers/subs to look like serious peices of hardware. I dont think speakers should be "decorated" but thats just me. I can imagine this idea would catch alot of attention from your average joe speaker buyer, but I imagine most "audiophiles" would turn their noses up at the proposition and see it as a way of Klipsch trying to market towards the average joe, not the serious listener. There for Klipsch would lose reputation with the largest target market that buys their speakers.......But I can still imagine my old man going out and buying a pair of RF-7 just becasue they have his fav footy team on them or something......thats just the way some people operate.

wow 150hz??? what were they smoking when they created that magical figure. I suppose the HK was only designed to drive small speakers in an office or spare bedroom (thats what the manual says anyways!) so the high crossover for the sub would make sense in that case. Although I think 120W per channel is a tad bit large for a reciever designed to drive small speakers in small rooms. oh and with that attentuator for PE I shall have to look into that. But I live in Australia so I'll have a look now to see how much shipping is (or if I can get a simular product here) ahhhh if I lived in the US I would have a TC-2000 15" in my room right now (and would probably be saving for the LMS-5400) ahhh I how I do love TC sounds (but the loving relationship with me and TC will never happen due to the huge shipping costs, fees and warranty problems involved with ordering one to the land down under)

to me it sounds like your speakers maybe fried? if possible hook them up to another source and see if the problem persists. if they are 2 way sats and they buzz at low-loud levels on bass lines this shows that the woofer may be toasted (note why they still buzz at low volumes) of course it may be that your new sound card is feeding stupidly low bass info to the speakers. try cutting of 50hz and under, then if that doesn't work try 60hz and under etc etc. You didn't say what speakers you are using but I would be thinking at least cut everything under 40hz off and most definitely everything under 20hz as this is absolutely useless for a sat to try and play.

You just----gotta-----make a huge brain numbing subwoofer! you wouldnt have to worry about all the pesky bracing that eats up your precious internal volume! no box coloration at all!

ah I feel at peace again....all is as it should be. at half power, which I am calling 400WRMS ( I am not about to believe the claimed 1200WRMS power handling) the port air velocity is a peak of 32ms at 30hz, and anything below that doesnt matter becasue it is all being cut off! I knew this subwoofer was going to "sound bad" generaly speaking before I even started this project. I was just worried for a moment their that it would sound so bad it would be unusable. apparently not. And also, to fit the ports in that I have in mind can I use these port kits http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=CX2685&CATID=&keywords=port&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID= I wanted to use these because they are angled up at 30degrees making it easier in my enclosure to fit the length of the ports. Also while im at it I may as wel ask some questions to save asking them later! ok, when I port the sub should I take out all of the accustic stuffing I have in place? and with the amplifier I am getting for the sub, I actually believe that it will be able to deliver in excess of 1000WRMS in bridged mode (by looking at the amps internals it looks like it could do the job), being such a substantial amount of power, what cabling should I use to internally and externally wire the sub? (the amplifier will probably be sitting on top of the subwoofer making for very short wire runs) and last but not least, I read somewhere that PA gear (like the EP1500 I am getting) needs high gain input signal to be able to work at it's best. this should not prove a problem for to long if true because an equaliser with a activ crossover is on the way soon after the amp.when i first get the amp I will be playing the the amp off my HK3480's subwoofer out jack, lowpassed at 100hz (a bit to high but I can deal with it for a while) Thanks again for setting me straight!

I just got some more time to do some more fidling with the subwoofer on win isd (amplifier is almost payed off) and found something that worries me greatly! Going through the help files, I decided to check the delay time on the port so I can see if it will sound crappy (could have kicked myself for not doing this earlier!) and found that I have a 33ms delay at 30hz, 22ms at 35hz and so on so forth........After reading the help file this sounds very bad indeed as it says you should have at most 14ms at all the frequencies your music will be listened to at! are these numbers I am getting as bad as they look to me? if so how noticible will the port noise be? I know the way to fix this is to add more ports, or more port diameter, but I cannot do this because with my current calculations with 2 85mm ports, they both have to be 15inches long (which is as long as I can have them in my enclosure) I would very much appreciate it if any one had any views/help for me, as I want to port this sub because apart from the delay it gives me great frequency response, SPL and low cone excursion before 30hz (where the sub will be "cut off" at) Look forward to hearing back!

IMO 3 TC-LMS5400's would have to smack the Jackhammer around. Wasnt Jay planning to get the 18 inchers? The pure excursion those drivers are capable of is just mind blowing (to me anyway)

Lol that is some bad luck! I have owned 3 different subwoofers (another one in the making) and never had a problem..... it sound to me like someone needs to try DIY so you can make the sub as you see fit, design the enclosure for the response you want and choose your own finish.

I dont think there are very many modifications for the reference line as i remember others asking and being turned down. (except for the RF-7) What is the problem with the current cross-over? do you not like the sound? As they say if there is no problem, don't try to fix it! The way I see it, most people on this forum use crossover mods to refurbish old heritige X-overs or fix a problem that they have identified (with the RF-7 alot of people didn't like the bright top end, so this was dulled with a crossover mod) and can be changed with an X-over mod. That said I would think the RF-82's crossover would be fairly spot on as is, and any tinkering would probably result in sound degredation, or no difference at all. I find it's best to trust the people that design you'r speakers......they are designed to very good standards. Regards Brendan

point taken. I think a multdriver configuration would be alot more sensible.....and fun!

using a proper LFE out for movies is basically a must, although I was happier with using high level inputs for 2 channel music. Don't plug these two connections in at the same time because they will conflict like you said.

It is true. A smaller sub is not faster than a larger one with the same motor power/cone area ratio. I had an RW-12, used it for music and loved every minute of it!

I am just speaking from experience from what I watched. either they musnt have wanted to turn it up any more or their Db reader was dodgy as all hell.