Guinness

Dean, Are these the Cornwall networks you think sound better than the ALK jr's? I built a set and they sound great. I can only compare them to the standard type B. If I want to use the 3rd order high pass option for the tweeter, is it still connected to tap 4, or run wide open, ala the ALK jr? Keep up the great work.

The T/S parameters can be found at http://www.geocities.com/tadgesualdo/12trxbTSparameters.html More info at.. http://www.geocities.com/tadgesualdo/12trxbmanifesto.html They require a pretty big box as a bass reflex system. Can also be used for open baffle. They have a singe cap for a first order high pass on the tweeter. The control is an L-pad for the tweeter. The wizzer cone sort of makes it a three way. Interesting speaker but I have never listened to one. Lots of info on the web. There's a nice pair also on this listing... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=004&item=140007112439&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1

I'm in on this too. Craig's a great guy. It's so tough to turn a hobby into a business. Thanks Dean for letting us know.

Mungkiman, Check out this thread..... http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/thread/568502.aspx I suggest you change the caps. Opinions vary as to which brand of caps to use (understatement of the year).

There are two other important distinctions (besides cutoff frequency slopes) between the stock Klipsch type B and the ALK and DeanG version. The ALK and DeanG networks offer constant impedance and a bandpass filter on the squawker. Klipsch type B uses a high pass only for the squawker, allowing it to naturally roll off around 6000 Hz. I don't know how different that natural rolloff is vs. a 1st order cutoff, but I suspect it's significant. Edit: The downside of the bandpass is that you have to add another component, or 2 for 2nd order, between the music source and the speaker. From a purist standpoint, fewer filtering components are better as they each have a chance to alter the signal in an undiserable way. Buy the best quality components to minimize this risk.

Dean, I love you man! The zener diodes are there for tweeter protection, I assume.

Thanks for the comments. I chose the second order high pass for the tweeter only based on some comments seen in this forum that suggest it might be an improvement. Wasn't sure about the polarity issue, but easy enough to fiddle with. The 5.6 ohm resistor idea is unashamedly stolen from the ALK design. As I understand it, the resistor lets that part of the network see the speaker impedance as 4 ohms (5.6 in parallel with 16 ohms). Going back through the autoformer impedance ratios at the various tap settings (the specifics of which escape me at the moment) and the 10 ohm resistor in parallel to the autoformer lets the amplifier see a 6 ohm impedance. The woofer is also about 6 ohms. I understand that is more desirable to a tube amp, but have no praactical experience to draw on.

I have read as many posts as I can find on the topic of <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" />Cornwall networks now that the search function is working again. I have a strong desire to make my own networks for my 1976 Cornwalls. Not wanting this to become a, which network is best debate, Im posting my take on a design concept. I have based most of this on the ALK design and comments from many, especially DeanG. Ive lowered the crossover order on each of the drivers vs. the ALK design. I lowered the order because I listen at modest levels and am not looking for a radical change from my current type Bs. My component values are derived from simple crossover calculators found on the web and some assumptions about speaker impedance. Its a 1st order low pass on the woofer, 1st order bandpass on the squawker, and 2nd order high pass on the tweeter. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> I show 2 options for the crossover point from the squawker to tweeter because I will be upgrading to the CT125 tweeters. Looking for comments and/or critiques of this design before I start sourcing the components. Thanks in advance. (I don't see my file attachement in the preview, sure hope it uploads in the post)

Did Cornwalls ever come with the pie slice emblem? I have a set of 75's without emblems (6N812 & 6N917). One of them has some kind of smudge in the upper left hand corner that looks as if a pie slice emblem may have been glued on in that location. Do the emblems glue on, or do they have barbs?

Dean, Can you elaborate a bit on the AlK lites? Visually I see fewer components on the board. What is the give and take vs. the full version? As much as I want the full version, the cost is a bit staggering. Thanks Mike

djn, Who's the guy with the Belles? I'm interested in taking a look. I'm in Oxford, Mich. (formerly a neighbor of yours from Bloomfield Twp.) I just baught a pair of Cornwalls from Craig's (NOSValves) buddy about a month ago. Couldn't be happier with those but, Belles are just sort of sexier looking. Am I officially hooked on this Klipsch Heritage thing now? Is there a support group for addicts? Is this forum the support group? Nice avitar, by the way. Mike

I'm the guy that picked up the Cornwalls from Craig. What a day! I buy a set of Cornwalls, I meet a guy who is more of a tube fanatic than me, he has two killer systems running with LaScallas (and yes the system with his own amp was the best of the two), and his house is like a tube amp museum. I could of stayed all day, but I was playing hooky from work to pick up the Cornwalls. Then I get home, after work, and hook up the Cornwalls. Nothing much else has gotten done this weekend but listen to music. I didn't know it could sound this good. I immediatly ordered some Auricaps for the crossovers (type . I had never heard a Klipsch Heritage speaker in my life until Friday. I now have to sell every other speaker I own. My head is spinning too. Thanks Craig for the experience and damn nice to meet you. Mike