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Everything posted by Fizzlemizzle

  1. I'm selling my RC-3 Woofers and crossover to buyer out of state (thus, shipping - probably Fedex) and would appreciate some advice on how to package them. Is it okay for the surround, for example, to rest flush against a surface? I'd like to avoid that, obviously, but the frame shape doesn't make it the easiest to make a spacer of some sort, nor do the box size options I've found locally thus far. I'm also including the Crossover and related parts in the package, probably in a separate small box. Far as I can tell from Ebay, the well of older Klipsch parts has mostly dried up so I want to be diligent. Thanks for any suggestions
  2. Thanks for the advice, but 2 out of the 3 Klipsch Reference RF-5 and RC-3 I had shipped to me both had woofer frame damage (One RF-5 woofer completely popped out!) that required me to use washers to screw the woofers back in to the cabinet and the horn driver snapped off the horn on the RC-3 as well. I will pack it best I can, but am kind of surprised that I seem to be the only one who's had this happen to me. I will ship it Fedex, mark it fragile, insure it, but packing it will be a hassle. The buyer is willing to cover whatever it costs to pack/ship it well - if Fedex packed it would they do an adequate job? This is turning in to a lot of effort and time for $50.
  3. Hey everyone, a buyer out of state wants my already damaged from shipping RC-3 (Horn driver broke off, one corner of the woofer driver plastic tab broke off) because HIS RC-3 was also broken in shipping and somehow both his woofer voice coils got broken. Anyways... I am trying to think of ways to at least prevent damage to the plastic woofer frame mounting holes. Right now, my current thought is to unscrew the "bolts" and reinstall them with the widest possible washers to distribute the G-forces across a much wider area. As for the Grille, which already has one mounting tab broken off, I'm not sure how to package that in the box with the cabinet. Any ideas or advice is appreciated! As you can see in the pics, one corner of one woofer already had to be affixed with a washer as the paper-thin plastic frame broke in shipping years ago. Clearly, the Reference line was designed to be delivered by pallet to dealers only, lol.
  4. Got these on trade and while they sound and look great, I simply need need money. A couple of the Woofers have minor dents/blemishes which I suspect could be popped back from the back side but are not that bad at all, really. Cabinets, baffles and grilles, however, are satin black and really excellent and look beautiful - an easy 9/10 in my book. As stated, I'm in Cleveland and located near Hopkins Airport in North Olmsted. I am willing drive up to a few hours to meet (if necessary) and am also available any time. I'll be monitoring replies and have more images if interested! Thanks for looking. Open to partial trades for guy stuff - tools, smaller sub + bookshelves, laptops/game consoles/general electronics, car repair stuff, etc.
  5. Hate to sell them, but my KLF-20s have to go. Pretty great condition, black satin with excellent grills, very beautiful but imposing and holy hell are they capable. Located in Cle, Ohio so I'll post my ad here. Sorry I can't offer my Klipsch bros a 'steal' price as I'd like to but this time I need the cash and, believe me, I paid $500 for them too and no regrets whatsoever - kept them longer than all my other Klipsch I've had to sell off. Contact info in the Cl link, thanks for looking guys. https://cleveland.craigslist.org/ele/d/olmsted-falls-klipsch-klf-20-great/6889711032.html
  6. Will consider Firearms trades also in Ohio. Please just email me directly if anyone is interested at fizzlemizzle@gmail.com
  7. Price dropped. Will consider selling the driver alone for $300 OBO but would like to sell everything as a package.
  8. Mentor, OH and the box is 19W x 28D x 38H. Looks like you already have quite the HT Sub setup! Nice.
  9. Well, decided to sell it because I never really use it and would like to downsize to a more sensible size for my space restraints. Some of you here will be familiar with the Acoustic Elegance AV15X driver and its deserved praise. It's extremely efficient while having good/great maximum excursion (23mm) and a low resonant frequency which makes it well-suited for music AND home theater applications. The box isn't pretty but it's solid with good internal bracing and a 17.5x2x26" slot port which brings the tuning of the (approx) 10 cubic foot internal volume to 19hz. The box is constructed from 3/4" MDF with an extra 1/2" to the front baffle and 2 windows braces about 1/3 and 2/3 the height for the enclosure for rigidity. The final volume and tuning were determined with the input of several knowledable members both here on the Klipsch forums and on other Subwoofer forums. The AE AV15X driver is flawless and was babied; I don't think I ever went above half of the rated excursion. Included is everything required to connect to your Receiver's SUB OUT and go: Driver/Enclosure, Behringer EP2500 Amp, Elemental Designs EQ.2 Preamp/EQ, 12ga speaker wire and RCA to XLR cable. Would maybe consider trading for a smaller custom subwoofer but am mainly interested in my current main hobby of Firearms. Advanced specs can be provided and I could install WinIsd upon request to model the Response/Excursion/Port Velocity and all that stuff. Off the top of my head I believe the F3 is sub-20hz with the neccessary HPF active and will still have significant output down into the Teens. It's extremely musical and clean - this is an excellent match with efficient Klipsch speakers and can match the output of just about anything. ' Asking $600
  10. Huge longshot here but I'm trying to find 18 or 19" wheels in 5x114.3. Looking for Enkei Raijin, TSW Nurburgring, Forgestar F14 or similar. Can deliver within a couple hundred miles or meet halfway within any state neighboring Ohio.
  11. Still up for $600 obo. I think this is a pretty fair price for a really nice pair of V1s, even though they have been refinished in black. I am open for trades of smaller reference Klipsch.
  12. Price dropped to 600 obo. Looking to purchase new firearms and haven't used these in a while now. Still wrapped in plastic, bubble wrap and blankets and ready for safe transport. Located in northeast Ohio and would be willing to drive a little bit to meet. Comes with spare K-63-KN driver and horn. Email if interested.
  13. Still up for sale. Would trade for RB-5s plus some cash, RB-75s, and firearms. May be a little negotiable on price but nice V1 CF-3s aren't so easy to come by. Also forgot to note I bought a spare K-63-KN Driver/Horn assembly that will come with them, I was originally going to DIY a matched center for them.
  14. These are early 1994 version 1s with 6" ports, clear wiring, and lower FS woofers. Bass is exceptional for 10" woofers, these are the most balanced Klipsch I've ever heard. They were originally Medium Oak but have been refinished in Satin Black. Condition is quite good, I'd conservatively rate them 8/10. They're still packed from the move - wrapped in heavy furniture blankets then bubble wrap and tape. They're ready to go without worry of any damage occuring. Asking $800 cash or trade for firearms. Specifically looking for PSA AR lower, along with just about anything else of similar value. Those of you looking for these know they're quite rare, may be somewhat negotiable on price but honestly they're a cool part of Klipsch history and I wouldn't mind keeping them if they don't sell. I can meet within two hours or so if necessary. Possibly open to smaller Klipsch like RB-75, RC-7, RF-7, and other high-end reference. Please email fizzlemizzle@gmail.com or text 440-749-0866 if interested and I hope we can work out a deal! Thanks for reading.
  15. Belkin PF-60 is what I have and I love it. All of them read line voltage but I went with the PF-60 because it displayed amps drawn and was WAY cheaper than Panamax. Here's a neat little video I took with spl meter and the Belkin display. Gotta love that Klipsch and large ported sub efficiency!
  16. Also open to trades. RC-7, RSW-15, RB-5s, RF-5 and 7. Emotiva UMC-1, maybe some other audio stuff. Trade for guns (in Ohio). Will meet within 2 hours or 120 miles from Cleveland. Really unsure what to ask for these, they're in pretty good condition aside from not being the original color. These don't come up too often so if anyone could help me with pricing I'd appreciate it.
  17. I prefer my KLF-20s to them, though the 2" horn in the CF-3 provides excellent mids. By themselves the CF-3s have deeper and smoother bass, but less highs than the 3-way Klipsch offerings. The bass doesn't matter to me since I have a huge sub, but they really do have quality bass. They do sound excellent and I'd like to keep them since they're a rare piece but they're big and I don't really have anywhere to put them.
  18. Testing the waters as I no longer have the room for these. They're the first models with the 6" port, and clear jacket wiring. They were originally oak but have been refinished in satin black. They're in very good condition otherwise. They will come with a spare K-63-KN driver and horn. I have no idea what to ask for these, so if you're interested let me know and we can work something out. I'm outside of Cleveland, Ohio and would be willing to meet or deliver within 100 miles or so. They're currently in bubble wrap, furniture blankets and wrapped in plastic, so they're all ready to go.
  19. I've been wanting to test the parameters of a few of my drivers so I could do some custom builds. It looks like I'm never going to find the center I'm looking for, and not for a price I'd like to pay. I'm not sure I could justify buying the tester just to get a few measurements, as cool as they are - I've been spending more money than I should be (common theme here?). If anyone would be willing to let me borrow theirs for a few days I would really appreciate it. I could paypal gift you the cost of the unit, and upon return you could send me back the deposit. I'd also be very appreciative if someone could PM me parameters of woofers they've tested or found. I'm not sure how Klipsch would feel if they were posted on here so I'd rather just get them in private. Also, for those who have used it, is it accurate enough to model correctly? I've been using WinISD alpha, which as you may know is full of bugs, but it seems to model my subwoofer drivers right. Any suggestions for better software? Thanks everyone
  20. Great work, that looks awesome! I'd like to see the original insides before the bracing, do you have pictures? Also, you wouldn't happen to have exact inside dimensions would you? I'm not sure how you're supposed to measure. Here's a pic of factory KLF-20s
  21. Sounds good man, you should be a lot happier with that low tuning. I'm not sure what the original KSW-15 enclosure was tuned to, but it might have a pretty sharp HPF limiting your low end if you're using the same plate amp. DIY is always the way to go with subwoofers, here's mine with the 19hz tuning.
  22. Try pressing on the woofers. There is a very noticable difference in stiffness between my KLF-20s and v1 CF-3s. Also, what are the first 4 digits of your serial?
  23. I would absolutely lower the tuning by extending the port as much as possible be sure to leave a 3" space at minimum before the rear wall. The f3 of 41hz is really quite bad, that box size should be big enough for you to be able to lower the tuning significantly. It might have decent extension with that sharp rolloff if you corner load it, but damage to the driver will be a very real possibility with the tuning that high. Most music won't go below 30hz, but many movies have material well below that. Below tuning, the driver essentially functions as if it were not in any enclosure, it won't take much power at all to damage the woofer by being asked to go beyond it's mechanical limits. A single 4" port at 17" would net you 20hz tuning, and if you could fit an elbow, a 22" port would net you 18hz tuning. To Summarize: Lower the tuning as much as you realistically can. A 4" port is about the minimum you'd want to use to avoid port noise, so make it as long as you can while leaving a few inches between the back wall.
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