Jump to content

InVeNtOr

Regulars
  • Posts

    2009
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by InVeNtOr

  1. yeah, it's something i wouldn't send it back for....lol. but if that's my only issue or complaint, then it must be doing something right. i did actually call about it. Vincent said they could change that but i think enough people would have to complain about it first. he said it wouldn't be that hard to fix either.
  2. if you want to buy used try the Emotiva Lounge. they have what you want. keep in mind, if you don't buy the processor new from emotiva, you don't get the upgrade.
  3. okay, here's my thought on this. first off you don't need much power with your speakers or any klipsch speakers to be honest. second, a good CLEAN powered AVR will still cost you some good money. third, there is only 1 processor that is upgrade proof (well as well as one could be). when you compare dollar for dollar, upgrade ability, reliability, performance, and overall output sound, i think there is one company that you should strongly consider; Emotiva. i would suggest for the bottom line a UMC-1 ($699) and UPA-5 (? out of stock at the moment). if you would like to buy the best amp then go up to the XPA-5 ($899). a total investement of $1600 (it would be chepaer with the UPA-5 by a few hundred). as mentioned above some AVR's you might consider are $2000. when your processor goes out of date (they all do!) you can buy a new one from emotiva for 40% off then sell the outdated one you have and save even more money. it's really a smart move. with your speakers and emo gear, i believe you will enjoy the sound. i personally would suggest tube amps with your speakers buy you are using them in HT and i think the emo route will give you just as good sound at a fraction of the cost of tube's. if you are really trying to skimp, try and find a LPA-1 (i own one) for sale from someone. should cost around $400 or less. it's a 7 ch amp and if you only use 5 of the channels it's a 145 watt per channel amp. i use mine to power the rear 4 speakers. thats my suggestion. good luck.
  4. not sure if this is the same as above..... i have my cable (AT&T Uverse) set up to be able to watch and listen from the tv and the system. i have a direct HDMI cable from the box to the tv. this is the way i watch 99% of the cable shows. i also have a optical cable from the cable box to the processor. this way once in a blue moon i can listen to the tv through the 7's. so far i haven't had any issues with that. sounds good (well after a crossover change) with no audio drop outs or skips. this will sound silly to most but my biggest issue with the umc is the pop up screen. you can turn OSD off but the VOLUME OSD still stays! yep that's my biggest issue. to reduce my hatred for it i changed the screen resolution to 1080p (reduced the over size) and set it to 10 in the transparency. so now when i change the volume during a move, the OSD is less visible and is below the black bars, not a third up on the screen.
  5. that's basically it. does anyone own a ERC-1 and does it sound that much better than using a ps3 or some other dvd player to play CD's? i don't play CD's much at all but that may have something to do with i don't like playing them in my ps3. if anyone owns one and highly recommends it, please let me know what you think about it. also, which speakers or gear you use with it. thanks!
  6. just updated mine a couple of days ago (7.02.05). still like it. for me most of the issues came about because i had so many options. i wasn't use to that much control. i didn't use the eq either. i simply used a SPL meter and not much else. i do like the fact i can play with the settings on the fly while listening to audio so i can get a good feel if i made a good choice or not. i hadn't run into any issues except the whole "stand by" issue. this last update was suppose to be the fix. i had never had the stand by issue, but for some reason the wife or daughter would get it. i always assumed they didn't point the remote forward for long enough. i will say this, best upgrade i have bought so far. the sound quality is much better than my AVR. i loved my last AVR but the umc is simply better. when this poor thing is outdated and emotiva releases another one, i'll enjoy the 40% off. just to touch on the xmc, to me not worth it. for the most part the only upgrade is the xlr connectors. my amp is next to the processor so there is no need for xlr cables. xlr cables are generally only needed for 6' runs and longer.
  7. well i don't have a nice laptop to update my umc and i hate to borrow one each time. i went to monoprice and they had a nice extension cable. cable adapter you also have to have an adapter to go from A to B. it worked out nice because it glows so you don't need a flash light to see the back. that is if you have yours in a cabinet or something. anyways, i just did the super new update (7.02.05) last night. i think the web site still has 7.02 so if you call and ask for it, they send it in an email. here's a heads up for some of you. when you do all the new updates and now have to use the metal remote, you have to go back to your logitech remote settings and then change the remote codes. yep, didn't know that. so when it was done, nothing worked! it was a little pain some of the terms changed too. now instead of selecting "source 1" you select "DVD". i of course already changed all the names so i didn't know what source 2, 3, or 4 was named. i made a good guess and it all worked out in the end. took a bit because some of the commands were erased or switched up. good luck to all!
  8. i too started slow. had an onlyo 805 paird with a lpa-1. amp powered front 3, receiver powered back 4. i wasn't too happy with the onkyo in some areas and decided i needed to make a decison. i decided on the umc because in the long run it just makes sence. we all know processors go out of date and with emotiva you get 40% off the next generation processor. so you buy one now and when it goes out of date, you get the new one with a deep discount. then you can turn around and sell the outdated one for a bit of money and end up saving a ton of money. good luck with your decision.
  9. drew some more. actually made a grill and back removable panel. have allen screws and gasket shown too. let me know know what you guys think. i also went with 3 feet. they have a nice 80% point on them. that way if someone puts them on a hard wood floor it won't kill it. also won't dig down to the concrete with a carpeted floor.
  10. here is a drawing i have so far. it isn't a rectangle either. it has the same internal volume as the cornwall. (it's a tad bigger to compensate for the 2 braces i have in there).
  11. for those who want to build a Cornscala as a tower, i have some Cad drawings that may help you. i have modeled two different towers with the Bob crites sub, ALK's mid horn and a simple 130mm X 130mm tweeter. (those parts aren't modeled in because i would actually have to have them to get all the measurments).the cut out's for them are though. i have cut outs for a binding post plate and 2 ports. if you would like them i'll give them to you as a PDF so you can see them but then send them in a DXF file if you want to take them to get CNC'd. if you want to make changes or have different parts, let me know, i can change the model for you. i don't have a job right now so i am some free time to get them done for you. the more information you provide the more detailed i can make the drawing. anyways, they're free if you want them.
  12. what you can do is change the order in which what device receives which commands first. set the oppo as the last device to receive the command and (or) put a delay on the command as well. i have a simular issue. switching the order worked for me. change the order of which device gets powered on first: (go to the "activity" you want to change, click on "settings", check "review the order in which devices are powered on", use arrows to adjust which device gets the commands first to last. if you want to add a delay to the command (to allow it to boot up): chose the "activity" you want to program, click on "settings", check " review the settings for this activity", check "yes, but i want to add more control of options and devices for this activity", (i assume the device is already listed so go ahead and hit "next" until you see a title in blue that says "please review the actions for your "activity" (it would say the name of the activity you are changing). on the upper portion there is a gray box area that says "add action for" and there is an arrow tab. choose the device and hit "add". the next screen will have 4 options. you will have to go to this screen twice. the first time to tell it to delay a command. then you have to "add" another command and this time you list what the command would be. in your case "Home" would be it. that should be clear as mud. shoot me an e mail if you this didn't help. if you like you can send me your info and i'll call sometime and we can talk and walk through it. i understand about remote macro problems. man they can give you a huge headache! lol
  13. Star Wars The Force Unleased 1 and 2. Kinda proud of myself, i beat the first one on Master and am now half way through the second on Unleashed.
  14. well thanks for the info. didn't know that. i thought at times it seemed like i can hear audio travling around, but usually only during the intro. thanks again.
  15. i was wondering if anyone here has a umc and a playstation that isn't happy with the sound? for some reason it won't play the dolby sound. i can only play it in "All Stereo" or "Stereo." to me that sucks, i remember having my Onkyo 805 and playing my games and it was awesome. i have (2) ps3 games right now, both do the same thing. a friend let me borrow COD and it too had the same issues. called Emotiva about it, all i got was, the processor doesn't know how to read what the ps3 is sending. it's weird, i get the display of "PCM Multichannel" "L R C RS LS RBS LBS + LFE) but i can only choose from the stereo options. it's not enough for me to sell it and start over, just not all that happy it can't do it. i also don't like how the audio cuts out and takes a bit to load.
  16. another little suggestion on the PS3 remote issue. yes, the logitech adapter is $60, but if money is tight right now and you want something right now, i suggest Blu-Wave. it's pretty neat, simple remote (logitech has the codes for it) and a usb flash stick. simply plug the usb stick into the front, and now your logitech remote controls the PS3. the only 2 commands it can't do is, Power on, and eject. the cost of it is $15 or cheaper, check craigslist, they usually have a brand new one on there. i had a "rounded" ps3 and swapped it out for a "less rounded" ps3. mine was backwards compatible and i actually did a clean trade, well, the guy gave me $23 extra. so for me, it was a great deal. i didn't have the issues you spoke of, but i would follow up and cleaning out the dust. i know some gamers and that was the same issue they had. one took it completely apart and cleaned it. it also cleared his YLOD. that dust can really ruin these ps3's. good luck with it all.
  17. dean did you change your post? i was pretty sure i read it earlier today and it said more than "never mind."
  18. sorry for the misinterpretation, i thought a dealer or someone who manufactures products can't sell here. i simply have extra foam i thought i could offer at a really low price to help out people who have 7's that cause ringing in their ears. if you like i won't offer them to anyone, but i will stand by my suggestion for adding them. i am not trying to reinvent the wheel, i am just saying in my specific case the foam helps and makes my HT time much better. a question regarding foam on a horn, why do people make wooden horns that essentially do the same thing? i use the foam because i don't have the skill to make a wooden one and so far no one else has. if they were available i would be in line to buy one. to me it seems like that large plastic horn is vibrating causing the harshness. i don't have any type of equipment that tells me that, but like i said, i used the foam, and that harshness is gone. yes i did use it with a stock crossover i purchased from Klipsch parts (un modified) and installed it in a brand new RF-7. i didn't alter my crossover, except from using better parts. not saying the original parts are junk, just saying the ones i used perform better for me in my application. you can look at all the pics of the mods i have done. in fact i did speak to you about testing mine. as i understood it, if the pilgrimage comes back to hope, i have an opportunity to have you test them. i am curious what i did to them. i know this, what i hear now is way different from when i started. i am more happy with what i have now, then when i first started. not saying the original was bad, just now they fit with more how i like my HT. if i could afford the RF-7II i would. i am however a little upset about them. what you guys did to the appearance is exactly what i have planned to do. i unfortunatly haven't done it yet, the guy is busy right now. i was hoping to have the only pair like that, but oh well. still a very nice job on the new line. thanks for the info.
  19. you could have easily changed the resistor all together instead of putting them in parallel. the resistor value i use is 1.8 ohm. that resistor does not control the highs in that circuit. that resistor is part of a notch circuit. it helps round off a potential spike going up to the highs, but doesn't alone tame them. please ask Jeff at Soniccraft.com for more detailed information. or you can e mail him. here are a few suggestions if your highs bother you. do a complete crossover upgrade. contact Jeff at sonic craft and tell him what you use your speakers for, budget, and how you like them to sound. he'll be able to tailor the crossovers to your liking and use. that way you aren't simply copying someone else's suggestion. i personally only use mine for HT and i do like my speakers sharp and bright (not harsh). i love how mine sound, but i did much more to my crossover than most here. i put pics of them in the mod section. in fact i put all the mods i did in that section. add anti-vibration foam to the horn (like i did). that will tame them more than you will think. i believe you have to go all the way or don't do anything. if you try and stay in the middle and only do part, you won't like your results. the cheapest way to take the harshness is the foam. if you can get your hands on dynomat, it should work. if not, i sell a kit for all 3 front speakers. it's only $30 + shipping. all the foam will do is roll off the peak highs so your ears don't hurt so much. i have another type of foam, but i felt it rolled it off too much and started sounding "muddy" or "blurred." just my opinion on what i heard with my ears in my room with my gear. thats about it for controlling your highs in the original RF-7 and RC-7 speakers.
  20. just measured, 10' should work. my power cord is only 4', so two sets of 5' should give me the right length after i spiral them together. thanks a million!
  21. man, you can't joke like that. Your my only customer! I can't have that type of ratio of failure. Lol. I still have several of those kit power cords sitting in a box. I used one for my sub and cut the TV cord one to make a new cable for my HDDVD player. I have to say it was fun but I highly doubt I'll ever do that again. Let me know if u do have extra wire. Let me know what u want for it.
  22. Thanks for the offer but I can't use that type. Thanks again.
×
×
  • Create New...