longdrive03

Thanks MG. I've got the round magnet versions and will test one today and post what I get. The .63QT on the square magnet is different than the round version as I recall. THanks.

MG, A friend has them and I tested them a while back and the only number on the was 11-15-046. Here the specs I got using WT2. Thanks. Buffer[1] Vas Ver 7.01 Completed: Sun Nov 09 21:57:31 2014 Drive level 69.504% [2.465 mA] Sine,LoZP(LV/LA)->Vas,21 pts ;------------------------------------------------------------------ Re = 4.9895 ohms Fs = 30.0773 Hz Zmax = 114.3375 ohms Qes = 0.3160 Qms = 6.9247 Qts = 0.3022 Le = 3.6119 mH (at 1 kHz) Diam = 336.5500 mm ( 13.2500 in ) Sd = 88958.8296 mm^2(137.8865 in^2) Vas = 289.3886 L ( 10.2197 ft^3) BL = 18.0167 N/A Mms = 108.7740 g Cms = 257.4179 uM/N Kms = 3884.7336 N/M Rms = 2.9685 R mechanical Efficiency = 2.3415 % Sensitivity= 95.7130 dB @1W/1m Sensitivity= 97.7634 dB @2.83Vrms/1m Krm = 8.289E-03 ohms Freq dependent resistance Erm = 808.551E-03 Rem=Krm*(2*pi*f)^Erm Kxm = 63.176E-03 Henries Freq dependent reactance Exm = 677.122E-03 Xem=Kxm*(2*pi*f)^Exm ;------------------------------------------------------------------ Ftest = 21.975 Hz Ftest/Fms = 0.7306 Test Mass used = 95.0000 g (Equal to 19.0 nickels) Test Mass (Ft=Fms*0.90) = 25.515 g (Add -69.485g for Ft=27.070) Test Mass (Ft=Fms*0.75) = 84.602 g (Add -10.398g for Ft=22.558)

It isn't the 15C but the numbers on it are 11-15 -04 Here are the specs I measured. Buffer[1] Vas Ver 7.01 Completed: Sun Nov 09 21:57:31 2014 Drive level 69.504% [2.465 mA] Sine,LoZP(LV/LA)->Vas,21 pts ;------------------------------------------------------------------ Re = 4.9895 ohms Fs = 30.0773 Hz Zmax = 114.3375 ohms Qes = 0.3160 Qms = 6.9247 Qts = 0.3022 Le = 3.6119 mH (at 1 kHz) Diam = 336.5500 mm ( 13.2500 in ) Sd = 88958.8296 mm^2(137.8865 in^2) Vas = 289.3886 L ( 10.2197 ft^3) BL = 18.0167 N/A Mms = 108.7740 g Cms = 257.4179 uM/N Kms = 3884.7336 N/M Rms = 2.9685 R mechanical Efficiency = 2.3415 % Sensitivity= 95.7130 dB @1W/1m Sensitivity= 97.7634 dB @2.83Vrms/1m Krm = 8.289E-03 ohms Freq dependent resistance Erm = 808.551E-03 Rem=Krm*(2*pi*f)^Erm Kxm = 63.176E-03 Henries Freq dependent reactance Exm = 677.122E-03 Xem=Kxm*(2*pi*f)^Exm ;------------------------------------------------------------------ Ftest = 21.975 Hz Ftest/Fms = 0.7306 Test Mass used = 95.0000 g (Equal to 19.0 nickels) Test Mass (Ft=Fms*0.90) = 25.515 g (Add -69.485g for Ft=27.070) Test Mass (Ft=Fms*0.75) = 84.602 g (Add -10.398g for Ft=22.558)

I read Claudes thread on using a Kappa woofer instead of the K-33 and just posted a reply in that thread. I'll raise my question here also - I've got access to some Eminence woofers with specs very close to the K-33 but they are 8 ohm (Re 4.9ohm). If I used these in the Belles will that result in lower bass output compared to the K-33 which has a 3.39 ohm RE? I know I will have to change the woofer xover components. Any help appreciated? Thanks.

I've got some Eminence woofers that are 8 ohm (4.9 ohm Re) with specs very close to the K-33. If I use them in my Belle build will there be a -3db decrease in bass output? Any other concerns using 8 ohm? I know I will have to alter the crossover values. Thanks

I've got one of these (surround, cone and spider are removed). Ready for reconing if someone is interested. Only have a bad pic of magnet right now with label. Cone was frozen when I bought it . $40 plus shipping if necessary. Need money for Belle build!!!!!! Thanks. Ken

I should get a lot of work done this weekend even though I ran out of Heatlock veneer glue and won't get that till Monday. Hope to have one bass bin assembled this weekend and veneer pieces cut and ready to attach. Will send more pics

Gil, There is nothing worse than waking up in the middle of the night wondering if you filed an answer in a lawsuit. That will make you get up and go to office (or on computer to check). Sage advise. I plan on painting the parts that aren't veneered especially the triangle diverter wedge. Got a little down last night. Cherry veneer applied to the 1.25" thick sides. Sprayed a little alcohol on it to show color and grain.

I misspoke when I said Tnuts. I'm using threaded screw in nuts that use an allen wrench to screw in. Good idea on using epoxy. Used that before with the t nuts which really need it. Gil, I'm like you I want to sleep at night for 8 it is!!!

Wowsers, I like dat!!!!!! What is overall dimensions of cabinet?? What model 12" woofers are you using. Looks like it can pump out some bass with good extension to 600hz to go to a mid/tw horn. Keep us posted on progress.

Zobsky, got it now. Use a spacer to add distance from K-33 cone/surround to the motorboard. Great idea. So I'll just cut a big donut the same size as the gasket and seal it with sealant. Is your woofer opening larger than the 3 x 13" called for in the plans? Looks like your triangle diffuser is also large than the plans I've seen? Do you have any problems getting to all eight of the screws through the woofer access opening? Is it better to use the tnuts/threaded nuts driven in from the front of the motor board (side away from woofer) of from the woofer side. I'm planning on using stainless steel 10/24 bolts with allen head to screw down from the woofer side. Any downsides to that?

Honeybadger and Zobsky, Thanks for the replies. On the 3 x 13 cutout I marked it on the motor board then used a jig saw to cut just inside the line then lined up straight edges all around and used a flush trim bit. Zobsky, I can't understand your reply - please explain. Maybe I'm just not understanding today. I just mounted the K-33 to see how it fit and I'm running 30hz through it to loosen it up. I can undo the screws with no problem. BTW your 2 way looks great! What mid driver are you using? Did you use 3/4" mdf and/or plywood for your bass bin sides/top/bottom? Can't tell the thickness from the angle in the pic. Thanks.

Finally committed to this project and started cutting Saturday morning. I'm using 1.25" birch ply I have for the sides of the bas cabinet. I've seen 1" mdf or layered sides. I've built a couple of sets of Lascala' and Speakerlab K (in the 70's.) This will be a marathon build. I got my bass bin sides cut and veneered on the inside (using cherry veneer and Fastlock glue) and the two bottom pieces of the bass bin cutout and the motor board 3" x 13" slot routed. I'm letting the 1.25" sides clamp overnight. I've read quite a few threads about building a Belle and have a few questions. Some plans for the Belle or LaScala only use four Tnuts to attached the woofer to the motor board? Does anyone recommeing using eight? I realize it won't be easy to get to the far side of the woofer to install/remove one of the screws. Any suggestions? Also, I plan on building the bass bins for now and will see how that goes and the top mid/hf cabinet later depending on which mid horn I use. I'll start with the EV SM120A which has been highly touted. Don't know if I'll go two or three way either. It appears that the woofer terminal is mounted on top of the bass bin. Has anyone ever placed the bass terminal on the rear of the cabinet? Looks like a small hole could be drilled above the woofer in the doghous through the back for terminal placement. Anyonr tried this? I know the connection would need to be air tight (use silicone maybe) Here is the monster 4 x 8 sheet of the 1.25" ply. Too big to rip by myself so i had to rip with jigsaw then final rip on the tablesaw. Any suggestions would be considered. Hope I can move this around (casters will be used for sure)..?

AA friend of mine uses very fine black net material (like a bridal veil) you can get at a fabric store and puts it on the back with several layers of glue and it works well. I knew the tear was there but still had to look hard to find it.

PZ, how did you damp the back chamber of the D250X Selenium please sir? I've got a couple in a 3 way larger non Klipsch component build I just finished and like them a lot except for the 4500Hz top end. Sound is great for the price. Crossing them over at 4500 to a Tymphany 1" titanium tweeter.

I listened to the horn with the EV 2442 driver and it sounds great. Dispersion seems okay but wouldn't know unless tested. I may make another one and use with my Belle building using 1.25" thick 9 ply plywood for the sides of the bass bin.

Thanks HB and Fran. I will play around with the Peavey driver but might look at the EV 6DNX driver or DH1A or the K55. I know Moray James is a big fan of the DH1A.

Fran your set up looks good. I'm Biot do the ported version of the belle to extend the bottom end use a different Tweeter.

I believe the plywood was made here in the good old USA. There are non-plies. Five plies are 3/16 of an inch thick and for flies are one 16th of an inch thick. I only have three sheets left. I might do a fake double thickness up at the top to match the 1.25" size of the bass cabinet. I won't need that thick of side panels on the top since it's not really doing with the bass vibration. actually I think I got 13 sheets of it.

Yes, bracing the floor may be necessary. This stuff aint light. I can barely rip a sheet on my table saw by myself. I got 12 sheets of this stuff at an estate sale for $75.00. Good birch on one side. I cut some up in 1" thick strips and turned them sideways to make ends on a subwoofer build. Goes for about $120 a sheet I'm told on special order only. Heck why not. Thoughts on whether the the angular bracing between the sides and the top of the doghouse?????

Thinking about a Belle building using 1.25" birch ply I have for the sides of the base cabinet. I've seen 1" mdf or layered sides. I've built a couple of sets of Lascala' and Speakerlab K (in the 70's. Is 1.25" too much? I realize the outer edges will be thicker than the front top and bottom edges. Need some input as to whether that would look whacky. Would I need the bass cabinet bracing if I go this route? I've got K-33s and some EV SM120 mid horns so I may take a stab at the project. I've read some good reports on this horn. I've got some Peavey mid drivers that I might try (need to check on 400HZ xover point first). Will probably make different top front boards to play with different horns. . The plywood is great for a workbench top. I built 3 with my friend for his huge workshop. Please let me know what you think. Thanks.

TH, thanks for the post but these are sold. They sounded great and the new owner loves them. I'll pm you. Sorry I didn't mark them sold but I've been dealing with the horrific shipping issue of these to Los Angeles. One woofer and mid horn were knocked loose by our good frieds at UPS (box was packed by Fedex (not very well)) and I switched to UPS when fed ex increased the shipping quote. Each speaker was in a 28" x 3 box which is huge but fed ex had very little packing material. UPS delivered 3 days late and damaged and I'm trying to collect on the on time arrival guarantee now which is another long story. SOLD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Good point Bruce. I'm kinda killing time now since I can't spray any lacquer on my current Heresy redo. 93% humidity every day. Driving me crazy!

Gil, once again you hit a home run (measured) on information. So I was but a wee pup in 1959 when the K77 was first used. Very interesting how Klipsch changed vendors or different plants from the same vendors. Lots of history there. Thanks for posting Dave, a buddy of mine that used to work at EV thought the ribs might have been added to increase the strength of the horn walls. He was going to check his sources to see if he could find out anymore on this. I agree with Gil, I like the look of the ribs.

Gil, You're as handy as a pocket on a shirt!!! Thanks for you comments and links. You truly are an outstanding source of wisdom and information. I'm about to wrap up the painting (high humidity here) and play with it this weekend. As I recall the Motorola piece horn tweeter that is similar in size to the T35 doesn't have any ribs but does have a different shaped phase plug and probably horn shape. Food for thought.