longdrive03

Thanks Pete. Do you recall the price on these? I'm wondering if I can just buy four directly even though I'm not replacing them in an RF7. Thanks.

A buddy of mine wants to put together a clone of the RF-7. I've got the horns and drivers? BTW will Klipsch parts sell four new ones to me since they're not replacing blown ones? (Yes, I know I can call and ask but thought someone might be able to help in that area) I'm not sure of model number of the woofers in the RF-7ii. Does anyone know the model number and have any of those available? Thanks. Ken

Does anyone have the published and/or measured specs on the K-31 used in the KLF30 and Jubes? I had a K-31 and on woofer tested 2 it had a Qt of .27 as I recall with a low Fs under 30Hz and SPL around 93db. Will have to pull the sheet to see but wonder if anyone else has tested or published specs that are different. I see that Bob Crites has a 12" that replaces the K-31 in the KLF30 so I assume it will be good for Jubes as well. Are Bob's specs the same as the K-31 specs? I've heard Bob's Jubes but don't recall what woofers he has in them. Has anyone used a driver other than the K-31 in some Jube clones? Just thinking about it right now. Thanks.

Hi, I have this additional frontal view of the same plan. Hope this link works. https://www.google.com/search?q=klipsch+jubilee+plan&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=PzjSUuv4HsO0sASFhoDoCw&ved=0CCkQsAQ&biw=1280&bih=826#imgdii=_

Thanks djk. I've thought about using them in a Jube if I get enough time and strength to try to build a pair. Does the DH7 cover 750Hz to 20khz? I may mate it with an EV SMX 2151 15" woofer which is about 98db.

A buddy of mine has some and swears by them. He says they will do 500HZ as well as the other models such as JBL, Selenium, 18 Sound. Anyone tested/used them. They are 3" vc I think and are expensive. Wonder how they would match up with Jube horn or PA use.

I built a 5 sided box and hid it behind the upstair wall when I took in the upstairs. I had 8 Eminence woofers firing inward with a 15 x 15" opening in the wall being pushed with a 150wpc "Paramount" sub amp sold years ago by apexjr.com. It will almost move the couch my wife put in front of it. You can so same thing just have the opening at bottom. Or you could built a 20Hz tapped horn (ala "Volvotreter.com') website using a 15" Eminence woofer. I recently built a 20 hz folded horn design for a friend powered by an Infinity 1260W car woofer that measures 16 x 16 x 84". It is heavy and wouldn't be fun to move in attic but you could lay it flat since the opening is at the bottom front. My friend is pushing it with an M&K 250wpc and it vibrates cedar shingles on the side of his house. Good luck.

Jay, thanks for the response. The Fs surprised me since the Fs on the K-1113-T woofer I bough was 24.5Hz. I'm building a larger RT-12 cabinet (37" tall) with two 12" passive radiators (blown out K-111-T woofers) with 450 grams on each. Right now I plan on using the Dayton Ultimax 12 which has a 26Fs. Here's what the cabinet will look like.

I bought this woofer off ebay as a direct replacement for the RT-12 woofers. It looks like the RT-12 and is very massive and impressive. When I tested the woofer on Woofer Tester 2 version 7 the Fs was 39 Hz which seems extremely high. I ran a breakin using a 30hz tone for a full day and Fs didn't change. I've attached some pics. I had a RSW-12 sub that I pulled the woofer on and tested and it was 24Hz Fs. It doesn' thave the "tall boy" surround the RT-12 has. This throws off my sub project. Also, it has a 5.5ohm impedance - not the 4 ohm impedance I was expecting. Anyone help appreciated. Thanks.

Thanks guys. I noticed there are some small "fins" on the back of the amp that is screwed to the vertical brace and that might be the source. I'm not sure if that is a heat sink or what. I am concerned about bracing it and possible heat problems from the amp. Here is a pic I found on internet. The rattle seems to come from the two black covers that screw down. The area where there are four openings might be the culprit. I have tightened the four screws down and removed the amp from the vertical brace and tightend down the screws on the back side. Any idea how to insulate the black covers and not harm the amp?

Has anyone experienced a rattle at certain frequencies (around 100-125Hz) in the RSW-12? Could it be the amp not being secured properly? Doesn't affect the bass output but it is noticeable. The cabinet is not very well braced. Thanks.

Parts Express has these on for $58.00. Qt is low and it is an 8 ohm driver. Anyone have thoughts on how this might work in a Cornwall sized box? Would have to revise xover for 8 ohm load. Here is a link. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=295-034

Check out some of the horns at Parts Express. They have some that are shorter with cutoff around 500 to 700 hz per their specs if they are accurate which might work. Here's a link that might work http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&PartNumber=270-099&DID=7

Thanks Trey. Makes sense now that I look at it.

I have re-veneered old cabinets and veneering newly built cabinets. It is not that hard. I purchased a large lot of aircraft grade veneer which is wood backed and slightly thicker than standard veneer. It is a dream to work with. This veneer is used in customization of private jets. It is flame retardant. I used the standard Titebond II iron on glue method using a Kroger (other other brown grocery bag) and a $7 Wal-Mart (we say "Wal-Marts" in the south). Hard to screw it up. I rolled on two coats of glued on the substrate and veneer using a $1 foam roller tray from Dollar Tree or a cheapy from Wal-Mart. Put the roller and tray in ziplock bags to keep them from drying out during the rolling process. I've use this technique on subs, tables, cc's, and surrounds and never had a problem. I usually flush trim the edges then cover with solid wood corner pieces and flush trim and roundover. I have quite a bit of veneer if you're interested (sheets and strips of cherry, quartered figured etimoe, blistered anigre, wenge, etc). Here are a few pics of project and veneers (quartered figured eucalyptus and red gum).

I don't have part number on this part but thought someone might know what it is and its use. I got them in a buyout. Thanks.

Welcome to the forum. Do you have a part number for the xover? Someone will probably have a schematic. I'll try to help.

I've tinkered with the idea of opening up the top and attaching larger box to extend base. I'll have to check the woofers specs to see the optimum cabinet size. However, I would assume I need to add mass to the PR (or add another PR???) Anyone have the specs on the K-1113-T 12" active woofer handy? My test results are on my home computer. Thanks.

MG, I don't have equipment to do tests. However, I think that I can't screw it up too much by reducing vibration other than make it heavier. It's like closet space - you can't have too much!!! It will certainly be prettier when I finish. The good thing about subs is they don't travel a lot when they are put in place. Won't have to move this one a lot. I'll send pics when I start. Going to work on a center channel for a friend and two rear tower surround speakers for a buddy.

I lucked into one of these in a buyout. The cabinet is not well braced and vibrates a lot. My thought is to make this look and sound better by applying a 3/4" mdf layer to the two sides and top and then veneer it with cherry and solid cherry trim on the corners. The mdf should dampen the vibration considerably. I plan to remove the speakers, tape over the amp controls, cover the innards, sand down the paint, glue and finish nail the mdf on, veneer, trim corners and finish. Only concern is cutting out hole around the volume control. I may be able to attach it to the outside new "shell" and if no can countersink a hole to allow access the control. Anyone ever done this?

Moray thanks for the suggestions on ports. I might go with the 4" port but I'll have to order some and cut the hole bigger. I have 3 front to back braces in these but no cross bracing. The front is 3/4" mdf plus 3/8" baltic birch ply and it seems fine. I bought the mid horn on sale at PE and modified it to fit screw on drivers. My buddy may not let these out of his house which is fine. I'm like Doritos - eat em all and I'll make more!!!!

I ran the numbers off WT3 through the problem and this is what is showed. The vas is unusually high on these compared to standard K-22E woofers. This is the KP-22-E model. Calculations showed on one speaker 2 3" ports 7.67" long or one 3" port 3.2" long. On othe rspeak one 3" port 2.77'. On second speaker one 3" port 3.2" long or two 3" port 8.7 inches long. I have some flared 3" ports that might work as well

Thanks guys. Yeah two 12" woofers wouldn't work in this cabinet. The qts actually measured .29 and .30 on these woofes. but the vas was 9.09 and 9.49cf???? They sound great but I agree the 2 x 10" is a good deal. I used that in an earlier build with a different mid and tweeter horn and it sounded great as well. These do need subs to get that bottom octave but my buddy loved them. The mids were great with the K52TI mid and the K-792 horn tweeters. Next time I won't use 1.25" ply on these cause it is heavy. Hardly any resonance at all on sides and front. Here's a pic in my friends dart den versus my ugly garage.

Got the speakers and xover installed tonight. Love the sound in the garage but will take inside for critical listening tomorrow. These puppies are loud and clean and heavy!

Update. Got the sawing done and finishing now. Pics are with 3 coats of Minwax wipe on poly satin. Overall they are 45" tall including the riser and top cap. Hope to have finished by end of week. Hope I can move then when i get speakers installed!